Type of trailer?

[country_hick]

Tomorrow I'm looking at a PJ 22ft deckover hydraulic tilt trailer. I really hope this is it for trailers.

Never, you will want a longer trailer to carry more stuff or attachments.
Then you will want to get a shorter truck to make maneuvering easier.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm.. I though all trucks made today are 4wd, 4 door pickups with 4' boxes on them.....
I KNOW there are ZERO 2022-3 reg cab, short box ,2wd,V8 F-150s in Ontario

 

[cthomas]

hmm.. I though all trucks made today are 4wd, 4 door pickups with 4' boxes on them.....
I KNOW there are ZERO 2022-3 reg cab, short box ,2wd,V8 F-150s in Ontario

My long box truck is 6 feet 2 inches......

 

[country_hick]

hmm.. I though all trucks made today are 4wd, 4 door pickups with 4' boxes on them.....
I KNOW there are ZERO 2022-3 reg cab, short box ,2wd,V8 F-150s in Ontario

Maybe that is why my rigs are older?
I went to rust free Florida to get both of these. My rig has a 154.7" wheelbase and is 244.1" long. It is only a 2 door club cab and has yet to be used in winter.
Since then I got a newer car but it is the same model just newer.

I did add some better mirrors to see past the big hips.

 

[Grimloktt]

So true. When I bought a 22ft MidSota equipment trailer (15k GVWR) two years ago I figured I was done buying trailers. Nope! I like that MidSota but tomorrow I'm looking at a PJ 22ft deckover hydraulic tilt trailer. I really hope this is it for trailers.

Do you want to sell your trailer? If so, shoot me a PM

 

[mcmxi]

Do you want to sell your trailer? If so, shoot me a PM

Right now, today, I'm thinking of keeping it because it'd be near impossible to replace the MidSota for what I paid for it and it's a really good trailer. I committed to purchasing a PJ 22ft deckover and it's possible that after using a tilting trailer I'll never want to go back to one with ramps. If that happens I'll PM you.

This is what I'm going to pick up. The deck height is 32" and the trailer weight is around 4,200lb. GVWR is more than enough to handle what I need.

 

[nbryan]

Hello. What type of trailer would you recommend for moving B2601 with some attachments? I see equipment, car and utility trailers. Thank you

My PJ 18' car hauler 7K dual axle with beavertail handles my B2650 with loader and backhoe attached without a problem.

 

[mcmxi]

@Grimloktt, if you buy an equipment trailer I would suggest one with a dovetail and ramps at a minimum, like the MidSota I have, or better yet a tilting deck model if you think ground clearance might be an issue. I don't know if you'll ever want to haul a car or have other equipment that doesn't have much in the way of ground clearance, but some cars might struggle getting on/off a trailer depending on deck height, dovetail, ramps, etc.

I used to haul my BX25 in the 16' PJ dump trailer that I have, but getting on/off the trailer with the backhoe on the back was challenging at times. I would have to back the BX on the trailer at some locations which changed the tongue weight significantly (and not for the better).

 

[cthomas]

I have a 18 foot trailer and never load my LX2610 with the backhoe on the backwards as that I assume would be way too much tongue weight, am I wrong on this? The trailer has ramps and 2 foot dove tail. I just don't block the rear of the trailer up when loading tractor with backhoe.

 

[mcmxi]

I have a 18 foot trailer and never load my LX2610 with the backhoe on the backwards as that I assume would be way too much tongue weight, am I wrong on this? The trailer has ramps and 2 foot dove tail. I just don't block the rear of the trailer up when loading tractor with backhoe.

I have a tongue weight scale that I bought from a member here and it's amazing how much tongue weight can change even moving the load 6 inches forwards or backwards. At the end of the day, if you haven't visited a scale and measured tongue weight it's just guessing i.e. feel of the pants. Add liquid ballast, a FEL/bucket, wheel weights etc. and it's all guess work without actual data.

I'll be ordering more of the Curt load leveling hooks so that I can add them (weld) to the new trailer. I won't need them when pulling the trailer and M6060 behind the M1078 but will need them for the F250 for sure.

 

[ayak]

With a bad back, shoulders, and new knees, I’m personally a big fan of tilt trailers.
This is a 20’ 14K Aluminum Gravity Tilt:

If you go too short, you don’t have much wiggle room for positioning to get the tongue weight right.

 

[country_hick]

If you go too short, you don’t have much wiggle room for positioning to get the tongue weight right.

That is where a fifth wheel or gooseneck comes in. By design they have plenty of tongue weight.

 

[Daren Todd]

I tow with a single axle trailer with no brakes. A B2601 isn't all that heavy. Laws in your locality may be different.

I would probably look to an equipment trailer. To me the difference is that a car trailer usually has no sides, and often doesn't have a solid deck - just tracks for car wheels. Which means your implements would fall through. A trailer with sides I think is more useful - removable sides would be nice but not critical.

The next question is ramps. I'm not a fan of fold up ramps, I feel like they create a lot of drag. I'd get pull out ramps personally. I think equipment trailers often have a big gate that folds up at the back. Fine for local transport, not much good on the highway in my opinion.

You need lots of good strong tie down points, good axles, and a well made trailer with heavy gauge steel and plenty of it. Some sort of tilt or dove tail or other way to get your tractor on more easily is a bonus.

The features are probably more important than the type of trailer.

I have no issues with the tailgate ramp on my 16ft dove tail trailer Handled a 1200 mile round trip to Florida without issues.

Tailgate on my trailer has spring loaded latches so once latched, it doesn't come loose.

You also have the added benefit that it covers the full width of the trailer versus having to readjust a ramp if you don't have it spaced correctly.

Plus the Tailgate won't kick out on you if loading on an uneven surface.

I agree with you on having plenty of sturdy tie down points. That was one of my projects after I got my trailer. I welded 5 stake pockets down each side of the trailer for added tie down points.

 

[nbryan]

I have a 18 foot trailer and never load my LX2610 with the backhoe on the backwards as that I assume would be way too much tongue weight, am I wrong on this? The trailer has ramps and 2 foot dove tail. I just don't block the rear of the trailer up when loading tractor with backhoe.

I always back up my tractor onto the trailer. I have several feet of room to adjust the machine forward and back on my 18' trailer, with the FEL and backhoe attached, or front snoblower with box scraper on back.
That way the tongue weight can be adjusted through its range - can be over-weighted or under-weighted on the tongue at the extremes of where I can safely park the tractor, so I watch the truck's rear end as I adjust tractor position so there's an appropriate tongue weight on the hitch.
Try backing on for ease of that tongue weight setting!
I found out very quickly that backing on and driving forward off the trailer is WAY better feeling and functional to me as backing it off the trailer was way more nerve wracking than a forward motion.

 

[fried1765]

My PJ 18' car hauler 7K dual axle with beavertail handles my B2650 with loader and backhoe attached without a problem.
View attachment 99362

How do you MEASURE your tongue weight?
You should have 10-15% of the loaded trailer weight on the tongue.
The eyeball (guesstimate) method is really not satisfactory.

 

[ayak]

I’m using a hitch ball setup that has a scale built in it, and aim for about 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer itself (2500#) and contents (varies). Doing so makes it much easier to drive (safer too, obviously).

 

[cthomas]

Drive at 55MPH and if you get scared or crash move tractor forward or backwards as needed. Ok, being serious I use a weight distributing hitch as it seems like this helps with poor load placement(please tell me if I am wrong) and have a level gauge on the fender. I also only load on level ground(or load then slowly move to level ground). If I drive and it feels unsafe I will move load. Also some sharpie marks on trailer for various tractors/implements. When I have a hundred bucks laying around this is in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-2000-Trailer-Tongue/dp/B007REK28M/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=tongue+weight&qid=1680455770&sr=8-8

 

[mcmxi]

I’m using a hitch ball setup that has a scale built in it, and aim for about 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer itself (2500#) and contents (varies). Doing so makes it much easier to drive (safer too, obviously).

I've seen those setups and they look awesome.

 

[mcmxi]

Drive at 55MPH and if you get scared or crash move tractor forward or backwards as needed. Ok, being serious I use a weight distributing hitch as it seems like this helps with poor load placement(please tell me if I am wrong) and have a level gauge on the fender. I also only load on level ground(or load then slowly move to level ground). If I drive and it feels unsafe I will move load. Also some sharpie marks on trailer for various tractors/implements. When I have a hundred bucks laying around this is in the future.

View attachment 99412

https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-2000-Trailer-Tongue/dp/B007REK28M/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=tongue+weight&qid=1680455770&sr=8-8

That's the model I have. I bought if from a member here for $75 and it seems to work well.

 

[country_hick]

As a general rule should a tractor with a backhoe have the backhoe placed at the front or back of a trailer?

I would think the backhoe weight might be enough to justify putting it at the front of the trailer for tongue weight, but I have been wrong before.