Trailering my L3560 LE 800 miles…my set up. ** New photos**

[Grandad4]

Here is what I get….tractor w/4wd and HST = 3,880 pounds, 805 loader = 1279 pounds
total = 5,159 pounds…yup….might have to rethink this. I have a friend that has a dump trailer with 10,000 pound capacity….

Lots of debate over the years about what these tractors actually weigh vs what is published. Usually they ended up being a little heavier. I'd suggest you run your setup across the nearest truck scale to get an actual number. You have a really nice towing setup but it may not be quite enough for your tractor.

 

[Firstgear]

Ok…my memory just isn’t what it used to be for sure! Here is the spec sheet from the manufacturer…5820 pounds weight capacity. Subtract 5159 pounds for tractor and loader, there is still 600 pounds to go. So there is excess capacity for the trailer. I had originally put the tractor on facing forward, but didn’t like it. So tomorrow I will turn it around and see how it looks….stay tuned.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Lol….how heavy is your tractor?

Guessing around 4,000 as it rolls down the road. A pair of 5,000 WLL straps up front and a chain through the draw bar. Of course, the loader and BB are also strapped down too.

 

[lynnmor]

You should measure the tongue weight and place the load so that there is a minimum of 10% on the hitch and 15% would be better. There are YouTube videos to show you how that is done using a common bathroom scale. Just looking at the setup isn't enough, you will find that moving the tractor a small amount will change the weight significantly. Only with a scale can you determine the direction and position to load. When loading, first put the tractor in low and 4WD so any driveline slack is removed as you drive on and the parking brakes have maximum effect.

The 3500 pound axles are cheap junk and the design leaves virtually no shoulder for the inner bearing to rest on. Even though the trailer may be new, you want to go over the bearings to see if they are properly greased and adjust the bearing clearance. I have had those cheap Chinese bearings fail immediately due to faulty manufacturing. Adjust the brakes. Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure shown on the sidewall.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

You should measure the tongue weight and place the load so that there is a minimum of 10% on the hitch and 15% would be better.

+1

I try to get close to 15%.

I got one of these "tongue weight scales" and I really like how it takes all the guess work out. I consider it cheap insurance/piece of mind.

I edited the cheap part cause when I bought it last year I paid 104.74 with free shipping. (I gotta get a new calculator; according to .Gov there is only 2-3% inflation....I had no idea 3% of 104.74 was 80 bucks)

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...MI64-3gr_FgQMVgQStBh3DcQIREAAYASAAEgJRQPD_BwE

 

[MountainMeadows]

+1

I try to get close to 15%.

I got one of these "tongue weight scales" and I really like how it takes all the guess work out. I consider it cheap insurance/piece of mind.

I edited the cheap part cause when I bought it last year I paid 104.74 with free shipping. (I gotta get a new calculator; according to .Gov there is only 2-3% inflation....I had no idea 3% of 104.74 was 80 bucks)

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...MI64-3gr_FgQMVgQStBh3DcQIREAAYASAAEgJRQPD_BwE

Fuzzy Math = More Votes come election time.

 

[MountainMeadows]

I use one of these weigh safe hitches. Takes all the guess work out of towing..........They are pricey, especially since inflation hit, but give you peace of mind.

High-Quality Towing Ball Mounts | Weigh Safe

Check out Weigh Safe's versatile, high-quality ball mount towing products. With our vast selection, you're sure to find the right mount for your needs.

www.weigh-safe.com

 

[fried1765]

The photos below show my set up. Each set of straps has a 3,000 pound working load limit with a 9,000 safety limit. The trailer has a total load limit of 6,000 pounds. The trailer itself weighs 1,000 pounds leaving a load limit on top of the trailer of 5,000 pounds. The tractor and loader weigh about 4,500 pounds leaving a gap of 500 pounds. Took it out for a trial run and to get the straps to settle in and tighten additionally where necessary. Comments?

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I suspect that you either have too much tractor, for that trailer (at highway speeds), or simply not enough trailer for that tractor.
50-60..... maybe OK?
60-70......NOT!
Magnificent looking rig though!

 

[lynnmor]

I use the Sherline scales, one I paid the going price, the other I bought at a yard sale for a few bucks. Now I can cover the weight of anything that I might tow. I must say that the eTrailer type would be a bit easier to use since no blocks are needed.

 

[check 6]

rule of thumb I've always followed is tongue weight should be 10-12% of total trailer and load weight. I would concur with turning the tractor around to minimize wind or the turbulence from passing trucks forcing the cab doors open

 

[rc51stierhoff]

My comments are based only in my own fails. I hope these help:

I was a fan of straps until one frayed and snapped….went to chains after that. Straps are fine until a load shifts and they frayed and break.

Are you aware of your tire age load and speed ratings? Have a spare? Check it as well.

it’s hard to tell from pics, but from the side shot it looks like sloped slightly to the rear…maybe check that.

 

[John D 2]

Make sure your tires air aired up properly.

Under inflated tires will overheat and blow out quickly.

I'd tuck in my mirrors too. Otherwise, they will act like mini parachutes while you're going down the road.

 

[Grandad4]

Here is what I get….tractor w/4wd and HST = 3,880 pounds, 805 loader = 1279 pounds
total = 5,159 pounds…yup….might have to rethink this. I have a friend that has a dump trailer with 10,000 pound capacity….

Thought about this some more. If that 1,279 lbs for the loader is from Kubota specs, it's just for the loader mechanism, but does not include any bucket or whatever. Figure a minimum 300 additional pounds if you will be bringing the bucket along, maybe more for a grapple, etc. And if you're not going to use the loader at your destination, why not detach it from the tractor, leave it at home and tow a lighter load?.

Just my 2 cents: Better/safer to use a tow vehicle and trailer setup that is not on the edge of being maxed out by what you need to carry, particularly for a long trip.

 

[fried1765]

Thought about this some more. If that 1,279 lbs for the loader is from Kubota specs, it's just for the loader mechanism, but does not include any bucket or whatever. Figure a minimum 300 additional pounds if you will be bringing the bucket along, maybe more for a grapple, etc. And if you're not going to use the loader at your destination, why not detach it from the tractor, leave it at home and tow a lighter load?.

Just my 2 cents: Better/safer to use a tow vehicle and trailer setup that is not on the edge of being maxed out by what you need to carry, particularly for a long trip.

+1

 

[6869704x4]

What sort of tires you got on the trailer? Most trailer manufacturers tire specs are cheap, round and black. And round and black are optional. Got a spare? Going to change it yourself or get roadside assistance?

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I don't agree or understand the comments about the doors blowing open. Did you guys and gals know that they are suicide doors?

The Hinge is in the back of the cab, the latch and handle in front.
Backing onto the trailer should prevent the doors blowing open as mentioned. Unless I'm missing something. Educate me please.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Think about the doors facing backwards. Is there any way to prevent them from getting too much air forced on them that could pop the door open? Maybe use some cardboard to cushion the windows and then wrap the cab in the shipping wrap that is used on pallets to keep the load from falling apart.

The doors are backwards. "Suicide doors". The reverse of a modern day card door.

 

[Russell King]

The doors are backwards. "Suicide doors". The reverse of a modern day card door.

Okay so no need to worry about it.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm..does that trailer have brakes on BOTH axles ? didn't see that in the posted 'spec sheet'. Usually it's not a problem getting a full load up to highway speed , its STOPPING that becomes the issue !
Since you're close to 'max weight', consider 2nd axle brakes if not already installed.
It's a roll of the dice around here if a tendem trailer has both..not required by law,mfrs derate lil hauler to skirt the laws on SA trailer as well.

 

[Firstgear]

I would put the draw bar as far into the tractor as it will go and then attach to it. You have a huge moment arm that is twisting around the bolts and putting load on the tractor that is not needed.

The draw bar is in all the way. It bumps into the transmission/engine. It can’t go in any further.