trailer for tractor

[manofaus]

I would like to start to build a trailer for a tractor which I am about to purchase. It will either be a bx 2660 or bx 2360. The length should cover a tractor with a front end loader and a tiller on the rear. Any body got any ideas on the length and width I should be aiming for? I am thinking of a tipping trailer (or over center) on a single axle. Probably just two wheel tracks say a foot to foot and a half wide (300mm - 450mm) with RHS 2' x 4' (100 x 50) either side of some steel plate. I think that I would have the bucket on the draw bar and the tiller at the rear. I am not after a car trailer design, because I only need to transport this tractor on it.
Any Ideas?

 

[TripleR]

I use a 7x12 and it is a bit short for my BX2660 with a tiller on the back.

 

[manofaus]

is that the floor area size of your trailer or overall dimensions?

 

[TripleR]

I will have to measure it, I am only going by the tag on it, you can't see it, but the ramp in back folds up.

 

[gpreuss]

I built one for my old L185DT, with FEL and backhoe. The bed is 6x18. When I built it I was not aware that you can't go an inch over 8' overall width, which my fenders did. So I had to chop them off and mount them closer to the frame.
This does not help you with your question, but is a worthwhile caution.
The L185 started out casting a 4x8 shadow. By the time I finished messing with the rear end - I widened the wheels with spacers, then finally put dualies on it. Overall width was then about 66"
Consider whatever you might end up doing - it would be a shame to make the bed too narrow to someday toss on a 60" bush hog or rear blade...

 

[Iowan]

My BX2660 with loader and tiller its fifteen feet overall and 2,100 lbs, the tractor with the 60" deck is about seven feet wide.

The problem I see with having a minimal trailer is that tractor, loader and tiller will give you more reasons to hall stuff you haven't thought of yet.

I built my car trailer in 1989 to hall my dag cars. Twenty years later its hauling cars the Kubot and all its attachments, dirt, gravel, concrete, wood etc. etc.. Next summer I plan on replacing the 3,500 lb axles with 5,000 lb axles. I use four two inch straps to hold my BX on the trailer

I'd recommend keeping all of the tractor on the deck with a strong dead head to put the loader against, six to eight tie downs per side and don't forget BRAEKS.
Your combination will be over 2,000lbs so by law you have to breaks.
One more thing your standard home owners insurance might not cover your tractor on the trailer for this you need an inland marine policy.

I hope this helps.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I have a 6x16 tandem axle landsape trailer with 12 inch railings and fold down gates on the rear and its rated for 7000 pounds. It carries my B6100 with room to spare and I've hauled my dads L275 with fel and grading box on it as well. For me if it fits on the deck and is within weight I've hauled it on there. On time even had a 97 Chevy Suburban on there, yeah it was stuffed on to say the lest and I even had to take the running board off to make it work.

Like the others have said don't build what you need to get by, allow yourself room to grow and expand and put other stuff on the trailer.

 

[manofaus]

dammit, you know I don't want to read that.

Here in Australia I can get a trailer with a single axle registered for 50 bucks a year and i don't need to pay to get it inspected. As soon as I add another axle and increase the capacity of the trailer it goes up to 200 a year with an annual inspection of 50 bucks as well. Instead of just being the two sleds it will end up being a full chassis with flat bottom which adds to the cost of the build. I know you guys are right but I think I could manage to make a smaller trailer at work without too much fuss too. Also we have a few single axles laying around at work I can use.
I am about to build a house next year so a larger trailer may come in handy.....
argh.