Tractor sizing

[blackdogfarms]

I am looking for a new tractor for my property. I have 11 acres of land total 5 ac wooded with old growth hardwoods, 3 acres of swamp and 3 acres of cleared space which will have our future home and out buildings. We have a 1000' driveway, and some minor hills. The main usage will be grapple/FEL, pallet forks, a 5' rotary cutter, 6' finish mower (already own) and a box blade. Since we are in hurricane alley there are numerous trees that need to be cut and moved. The current grassed areas are manageable with a riding mower, however I will use the finish mower and rotary cutter. So ground enganging grapple work will be the vast majority of my needs.

I do have livestock (pigs and goats) but other than hauling supplies, water tanks, feeders and an occasional round bale for bedding.

I initially was looking at the L3901 but then heard the Grand L3560 was coming out with a scaled down version late fall 2020/early winter 2021. I love the added LA805 capacity over the LA52,5 and the Grand L is sweet, but do I need it? I was hoping to use the 84 months, 0% on the L3901, but dont want to over do it buying the L3560 on 60 months. Its about 150 dollars difference a month.

I went from the L3901 up to the Grand L3560 and now I am thinking i will be able to handle everything with the L3301 being as I dont really need all the PTO hp of the L3901. I am all over the place it seems.

I grew up on a 25 HP Cub Cadet with 4 in 1 bucket and a old MASSEY Ferguson 35 on my parents 35 acres. These two tractors did about everything we needed. My intent with this post is to help me from moving up and buying too much tractor than I actually need.

Thanks

 

[Roadworthy]

I've heard you can never buy too much tractor. On the other hand my personal feeling is simpler is better and has less to go wrong. I've found my L2501 quite adequate for my ten acres. I went with it rather than something larger as it has no computer and no diesel particulate filter. It handles my five foot rotary mower just fine. I think the LA 525 loader is rated 1150 pounds or somewhere thereabouts. If you put much weight on the loader you really should load your tires or get a ballast box. That has been my only issue with my tractor.

 

[BigG]

I would look at the amount of money that you want to spend. And are you pushed for time?Or retired?

With only 11 acres I would look at the L2501. It is the nearest thing you can buy today compared to the MF35. If you are going to do ground work get the R1 ag tires. Get the third function valve for the grapple. Spend the money for 2 rear remotes so that you can have a tip and tilt for the box blade or land plane you will need for the driveway.

With out the computer this tractor should give you years of service without the worries of the emissions that the higher horse power tractors will have. Get the HST. Add weights to the rear wheels and liquid ballast. It will do what you outlined in your opening statement.

Most on here will tell you to go up in tractor size but I look at it as what will do the work well and leave me money for other things. The lack of the emissions and a computer are also big pluses. A tractor should be a tool to be used for an extended period of time.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'm with BigG here, bigger is NOT necessarily better ! Sounds like you KNOW how to make smaller equipement do what needs to be done...use it NOT abuse it, it'll last forever. I'm a HUGE fan of no dang computers !! let alone 'filters'.. the more complicated the more expensive they cost to maintain and fix.

 

[wgator]

You know what your requirements are and you budget is. Look at the specs of the tractors you are considering and make your own decision if they will meet your needs. I would ignore the "internet experts" talking about DPF and computers on tractors that don't/haven't owned one and are saying "you could get by with a smaller tractor like I bought". IRDGAF what they say, they are not actually trying to convince you you could get by with a smaller tractor, they are actually trying to convince themselves they made the right decision buying a small tractor. Just MHO. If you buy too small of tractor for your needs you will be regretting it every time you make a payment. My flame suit on!

 

[NWAZL3560]

I have 10 desert acres and do dirt spreading, trench digging, brush digging, rock bucketing and pallet forking. I went through the same analysis 2 years ago and went with the L3560 primarily due to the heavier weight and the extra features, including the low fuel filler spout. I'm very happy with mine.

 

[BigG]

You know what your requirements are and you budget is. Look at the specs of the tractors you are considering and make your own decision if they will meet your needs. I would ignore the "internet experts" talking about DPF and computers on tractors that don't/haven't owned one and are saying "you could get by with a smaller tractor like I bought". I "dgac" what they say, they are not actually trying to convince you you could get by with a smaller tractor, they are actually trying to convince themselves they made the right decision buying a small tractor. Just MHO. If you buy too small of tractor for your needs you will be regretting it every time you make a payment. My flame suit on!

I do not need to justify my purchase of a L2501. I have spent over 50 years using tractors. I have seen the old iron that is 40 or more years old that is still being used. Have the machines improved? Why yes they have! And they now require computers and emissions that will not last that long. Just like a Commodore 64, the computer in the tractor will become dated and no longer supported by Kubota. Then you will have a nice piece of yard art. Now if you want to trade tractors every few years to keep up with the technology then by all means buy the computer controlled tractor. And smile when the dealer says, "Sorry can not fix that tractor any more."

The man has small areas to work and I would bet he is not going to make a living from the land so why buy more tractor, a more complex tractor then you need?

And the tractors have not been around long enough to say if the emissions equipment will last.

 

[wgator]

I do not need to justify my purchase of a L2501. I have spent over 50 years using tractors. I have seen the old iron that is 40 or more years old that is still being used. Have the machines improved? Why yes they have! And they now require computers and emissions that will not last that long. Just like a Commodore 64, the computer in the tractor will become dated and no longer supported by Kubota. Then you will have a nice piece of yard art. Now if you want to trade tractors every few years to keep up with the technology then by all means buy the computer controlled tractor. And smile when the dealer says, "Sorry can not fix that tractor any more."

The man has small areas to work and I would bet he is not going to make a living from the land so why buy more tractor, a more complex tractor then you need?

And the tractors have not been around long enough to say if the emissions equipment will last.

You proved my point!

 

[blackdogfarms]

I would love a 2501 but having dads 25 hp
Cub cadet over heat regularly using the 72” finish mower that was a let down. We just swapped in the ol 35 and mowed and bush bogged with it. Why I am reluctant to get the 2501. I do like the no emissions concept but hey every tractor has emissions now a days with the exception of the 25hp and under crowd.
now I can buy a 5 Ft mower and be fine. But a free 6 footer saves me a grand Or so.
Also the 2501 is on 60 months and the 33 and 39 are on 84 months making it the same Or cheaper per month. But it is two years longer worth of payments.

 

[BigG]

You proved my point!

You have not proven a thing. When I need my big iron I take out the big iron a New Holland TL80A cab 4 x 4. But I do not need it very often anymore. The L2501 can do enough that the big iron stays parked now days.

 

[BigG]

I would love a 2501 but having dads 25 hp
Cub cadet over heat regularly using the 72” finish mower that was a let down. We just swapped in the ol 35 and mowed and bush bogged with it. Why I am reluctant to get the 2501. I do like the no emissions concept but hey every tractor has emissions now a days with the exception of the 25hp and under crowd.
now I can buy a 5 Ft mower and be fine. But a free 6 footer saves me a grand Or so.
Also the 2501 is on 60 months and the 33 and 39 are on 84 months making it the same Or cheaper per month. But it is two years longer worth of payments.

Which Cub Cadet did you have?

 

[Kurtee]

buy the biggest tractor that suits your needs. Do not buy to get around emissions. A small tractor will be a small tractor forever. I own a BX2660 and BX2680 and enjoy them both. Small size and very nimble. I also own a JD 2032R. Big difference in tractor feel and usability. Yes the Deere has a computer and a particulate filter. Would I take the same size tractor with a smaller engine to get around emissions? No way. Power is power, no trade offs. I also own a 1975 Allis Chalmers 200 and a Bobcat 632 from 1979 so I do understand old iron. I have been operating tractors since I was 6 and have handled many different types of equipment. I figure I know a little, so you can take it from there. Does anyone here know how to start a JD R? Cat D4 with no electrical system?

 

[blackdogfarms]

Ladies please

Which Cub Cadet did you have?

maybe a 7235 I will see if dad can read me the numbers off it tmr. It was mid 90s.

 

[Henro]

Not sure you should count 3 acres of swamp in your calculation. That leaves 8 acres.

I have 8 acres and my B2910 has done what I have needed without complaint for 18 years.

My guess is a L2501 would be perfect, as it is a bit bigger than my B2910.

I do not know but guess there is a huge difference between the L2501 and the cub cadet you mentioned.

Bigger is not always better. You need to match the tractor to your needs.

I supplemented mine with a BX for grass cutting and smaller chores. I do not think in my case a tractor larger than the L2501 would be as useful. YYMV of course...

 

[old and tired]

...and an occasional round bale for bedding...

This is the only statement that *might* justify the Grand L3560... although, the extra cost doesn't add up unless this is for a business (...and you can write it off).

My L2800 is the same frame as the L3901 and the hydraulics are the same (well, except I've jacked my PSI way past what you would get from a dealer). I would save your cash and buy a L2501 HST, with a Grapple, Top-N-Tilt hydraulics, box blade and several other things that you would not be able to afford if you bought the Grand L3560....

Bigger is not always better, sometimes it's just only more expensive...

 

[Cathy Liebchen]

Get the MX

 

[greg86z28]

L2501 would probably be good for <10 acres, especially based on your listed uses.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I see a lot of comments linking tractor size / HP to land area, I appreciate that can be a valid metric. Personally I selected my tractors based on what HP was required to run attachments that give me certain capabilities. I found that many attachments that I was looking at had a PTO HP requirement of 25 HP minimum. I had an L3200 for several years that is a HST and is rated for 25 PTO HP, I used it with a Woodmaxx 9900 chipper, 6’ snowblower, heavy duty Woods rotary cutter all required minimum of 25 pto HP. I often felt the need for a little more power so my second tractor was a L3901, I am very happy with this selection and notice the difference of stepping up to 30 pto HP.

I think the L2501 is a good machine but personally would be concerned at the lack of pto HP ( I think 19 HP for hst) in trying to run many of the attachments that I own. It’s true that you can buy smaller or lighter attachments but I believe that there needs to be a certain capability and safety factor with equipment. My recommendation is buy the L3901, you will be happy in the long run with the level of power both for pto and for general ground work. It sounds like the financing also supports you selection.

My only criticism of the L3901 is the loader capacity, in reality it struggles to lift a pallet with a 750 / 800 lbs load on 300 lbs forks, I sometimes need more than this and I’m fortunate to have bigger equipment. It’s good to understand the limitations.

L3301 was $1,700 saving when I purchased my 2018 L3901, I paid the additional money for the L3901 and was happy that I did.

I’d recommend front quick attach, 3rd function for grapple use, 2 rear remotes, loaded rear tires and telescopic rear stabilizer bars.
Good luck with your selection.

 

[Nicfin36]

Like Cathy said, have you looked at an MX? Pretty good bang for the buck on HP as I understand it.

 

[PaulL]

1. Both tractors you're looking at are probably more than you need. You really only have 3 acres that need managing, plus some forested land that you may drive a tractor through occasionally, and a driveway. You can do what you need with an LX or an L2501, probably even with a small B (a B2601). The LX or L would easily run a 5' cutter and a 6' finish mower, your other tasks don't really require HP. The only maybe need tasks are how much you can lift on the grapple, and how big a round bale you can lift, but for what you describe you could just split the bale and cut the trees into smaller pieces - you're probably cutting them for firewood anyway so with a grand L you cut 8' sections and lug them near the house, then cut into firewood, with an L2501 you cut 6' sections and lug them near the house, then cut into firewood.

2. Tractors in this size class aren't often about need, they're about want. You could also do what you need with a wheelbarrow and a shovel and a chainsaw, but it'd take a long time and not be much fun. The answer to the question is "what tractor do you want....we can help you explain why it'll be super useful and make you feel good about it"

3. Emissions and computers are maybe a problem, but there are a lot of L3901s out there. Someone will make parts if Kubota don't, and you can still get parts for some very old Kubotas. I wouldn't let emissions stop me getting a bigger machine if I wanted one - but if I really only needed an L2501 and I was just upselling myself into a bigger machine, it might make me think twice

4. Things you haven't talked about that matter - mid PTO (you'd need a B, LX or Grand L for a mid PTO - needed for front mount snowblower or mid mount mower. I didn't hear you say you wanted either of those). Cab? Grand L or LX for a cab. Sounds like you have forests to drive through, lots of people don't like cabs in wooded areas. Other people don't like wasps and mosquitos getting on them. I personally like being able to reach over the back of the tractor and adjust my top link, which you can't do as easily with a cab. Other people would have a hydraulic top and tilt kit. Horses for courses I guess.

5. MX is a large machine. An excellent large machine. But if you're questioning the grand L, then you should double question the MX. You need to know what you'd lift that requires an MX (sounds like your tasks are really all about lifting - at least those of your tasks that would test the limits of the machine).

6. Budget. For some people that extra $100 a month is a really big deal. For others it's money, but it only means they upgrade their truck a year later than they otherwise would. For my money a bigger tractor could give you a lot of pleasure, whereas a year newer truck.....not so much. Only you can decide on how important the money is to you - but if you're budget constrained then the larger L machines are more than you need to spend - especially as others have said if that means you can't afford enough implements to make use of it

If it were me, I'd probably be in an LX, or an L2501. It's enough for what you describe. And I get pleasure from a smaller machine used in clever ways. My father would be in the grand L in a flash. He likes the biggest machine he can possibly use for any given job.