Sold my BX 25 "starter" tractor and upgraded to new L6060 with cat 1 3 pt drawbar hitch supplied by dealer. Tnought I was getting a cat 2 drawbar atrachment. The cat 1 has eleven 3/4 inch holes. I want to attach both 2 inch and 2 5/16 balls for moving wood chipper, splitter, empty flatbed trailer ( approx 3000 lbs with no load ). Tractor rear wheels are loaded. 2 inch ball is available with 3/4 shaft but smallest 2 5/16 ball comes in 1 inch shaft and up. So, can I drill one of the holes up to 1 inch or will I weaken the drawbar significantly? Are there other options, perhaps a way to attach a 2 inch hitch receiver to this drawbar? I have front pallet forks that I could possibly weld a receiver hitch to. Appreciate all thoughts, comments. Thank you.
Tractor drawbar
- Thread starter Gaspasser
- Start date
I was having the same dilemma with a drawbar and 2-5/16 ball. You can drill it and be fine. You'll also need the tab (I do not recall the correct name of it) that connects to the 3PH arm, that's needed to keep the drawbar from rotating when you start and stop.
I resorted in mounting trailer balls to my Box Blade.
I resorted in mounting trailer balls to my Box Blade.
I understood you want to simply add a trailer ball to the draw bar…the problem I have found with that usually I want to use another implement or have something else attached when I want to pull a trailer. So I have a hitch or trailer ball (chipper) on several of my attachments…I know that’s not what you were asking but I am sharing just to give some ideas…I understand it’s better to pull from draw bar but there are some advantages to using the implements with a hitch. You could always make / buy something similar to what’s in the link: https://www.agriculture.com/machinery/all-around-the-farm/ball-hitch-adapter-for-drawbar
If I were thinking to do all over I’d maybe consider about a trailer mover that also would hold ballast weights (be nice to have flexibility to be able to use weights on front if ever needed).
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TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Your tractor has an eleven hole drawbar that goes on the 3pt lift arms. It also has an under axle drawbar that is used for pulling trailers, wagons, and the like. Either one can be drilled out to 1" but the under axle drawbar is where you should be pulling.
Dan
Thanks all. Like the idea of 3 pt carry all frame with an integral receiver hitch as shown in RC15`s reply. Plenty of info to digest. Great forum with friendly folks. Much appreciated.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
This home made receiver allows you to pull from the "real" drawbar, its effective and easy to use, and dirt cheap to build.
Dan
The size of the ball isn't an indicator of the shank size. Balls have a lot of different strength ratings. You need to do a broader search and find the right size shaft for the ball size you want.
I wouldn't drill the draw bar.
You should also make sure you watch the tongue weight of what ever you will tow no matter if the rear tires are loaded or not.
I wouldn't drill the draw bar.
You should also make sure you watch the tongue weight of what ever you will tow no matter if the rear tires are loaded or not.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Its something I found in another thread. Dont know the specifics but tje idea is pretty clear.
Dan
It’s pretty handy for hooking up, given that it can lift the trailer tongue. I don’t think it’s a problem to tow a couple tons that way.
Congrats on getting a new “real” tractor. That’s a pretty good step up. I think you’ll enjoy that L6060, Just don’t tear the FEL hydraulic lines off the right side.
Thanks Jim. Yes, they do come in a variety of shsft sizes but the 2 5/16 seems to only be made with 1 inch diameter and up sizes.
This is what I fabricated up 586#'s, the pipe is great at filling and smoothing ruts, pulling trailers/ goose neck and carries 40' (2-20's) of chain.
TheOldHokie
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The problem with towing via the 3-pt is….. Most 3 pts have no DOWN force….and when you attempt to stop... especially going down-hill…. the trailer tongue will LIFT UP the 3-pt hitch and the trailer will OVER-RUN the tractor. It can result in operator injury…and if the trailer happens to be a hay-ride full of kids….it can be particularly dangerous.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
When towing trailers with the 11 hole draw bar the lift arms need to be immobilized. Old school example shown below. Notice the use of vertical as well as horizontal stabilizers and drawbar anti-roll locks.
Dan
Dan
mcmxi
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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25TLB
One of the issues I've noticed is that most of my trailers don't have much in the way of tongue length which isn't a problem when towing from the 3-point. However, when towing from the draw bar it's not hard to have the 3-point arms contact the trailer, regardless of where they're situated (height). My workaround is to tow from the 3-point and use a chain connected between the draw bar and receiver to prevent the lift arms from raising under negative tongue weight.
THAT is the type which will still allow the trailer to Over-Run the tractor …unless you have some method of holding the 3-pt Down.
The use of chains as hold down devices will work…… BUT…don’t forget…. if you attempt to raise your 3-pt you are likely to damage/break your 3-pt hitch-parts, lift-forks, or other….until you Remove that hold-down.
In an extreme situation, the trailer over-run might also do this.
BTDT…. (this is how I learned to weld cast-steel lift-forks on my 9N)
mcmxi
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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25TLB
I bought this King Kutter receiver for $50 when I bought a used snow blower a few years ago. It was laying next to the blower looking a little sad, so I asked the guy if he needed it. He said no and that it was mine for $50. It's a very well made receiver and nothing like the cheap Chinese crap found on Amazon and other places. There's little I despise more than cheap, Chinese, ripoff crap!
Towing with a tractor shouldn't be an afterthought and something you're only prepared to invest $50 on. Save money with a cheap box blade, land plane, rake or whatever because those things aren't going to kill you. But I would highly recommend getting quality when it comes to the interface between the tractor and trailer.
This one has an eye for a chain to do what @GeoHorn describes above. If I had borrowed this King Kutter receiver from a friend I would absolutely have bought one for $300 if I wasn't interested in making one. There's probably $100 to $150 worth of material in the KK, and figuring in my time and consumables, buying wouldn't be a bad option.
Towing with a tractor shouldn't be an afterthought and something you're only prepared to invest $50 on. Save money with a cheap box blade, land plane, rake or whatever because those things aren't going to kill you. But I would highly recommend getting quality when it comes to the interface between the tractor and trailer.
This one has an eye for a chain to do what @GeoHorn describes above. If I had borrowed this King Kutter receiver from a friend I would absolutely have bought one for $300 if I wasn't interested in making one. There's probably $100 to $150 worth of material in the KK, and figuring in my time and consumables, buying wouldn't be a bad option.
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