Throttle Handle Bars on Kubota ZG-124E / RCK48P-124Z

[easye9]

As you can tell. The left bar is bent. For some reason, that bar had gotten so tough to move in / out of neutral. Felt like it was rusty, or grinding / popping sound when trying. I had to use some force, which you can see. Dry lube helps for a limited time. Any thoughts on what, why it does this. The right side is still smooth, but feels like it may need help soon.

Because of the bend, it does not rest against the orange guard.

I could not get to that bolt, which if I recall is a 15mm. I did just buy a cheap, super small Harbor Freight air wrench. I hope can fit in there to (help me out here) to get that bolt off to remove the handle? My plan is to try and bend it back to shape on the vice.

In this pic, I pushed the handle up to the guard to show.

The damper is what I just replaced on the left side. The other main problem that I am having is that when I start her up; all is fine. But, when I have to put the bars in neutral she will just spin on a dime non-stop. The brake applied does not stop her. I basically got to stand up or turn the key off. But, when I turn it back on it will not move until I get out of neutral to go forward or backward. So, obviously it is the new damper, so did I do something wrong with install?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[lugbolt]

the control arms have a spring & ball detent that holds them in neutral (outward) position. Sometimes they didn't grease them very well at assembly (factory) and they'd rust. The ball would get rusted/stuck and usually the spring as well. Then when you go to pull the arms in, one hangs up because of corrosion, you automatically pull harder and bend the lever. Lube helps temporarily but the fix is to remove the arm completely from the chassis and remove the detent ball/spring and then replace it if it's rusted. Lubricate the new stuff with a good waterproof grease and install, you'll never have the problem again

as far as it turning circles there are several possibilities. (1) the linkage is bent. (2) the linkage has been monkeyed with-improperly. (3) the neutral position on the hst is out of adjustment and I suggest leaving it alone until you inspect the control linkages FIRST. (4), the entire pedestal assembly has 4 bolts that hold it to the frame. Perhaps the 2 bolts on one side came out. They would be at the bottom, under the fenders, on the outisdes of the frame. I have seen this. Tech from another shop did a campaign (recall) on it and left the bolts loose, they fell out and of course that affects the control arm linkages. (5) if you look at pic #2, right behind the F-N-R sticker you see a bolt. Look at the bolt, the plate that the bolt holds down has slipped or has been adjusted. That plate controls neutral. You loosen the bolts and then with the arms out and parking brake OFF, you move the arms forward or backward until you are no longer moving, then tighten those bolts. Many mistake that plate as a tracking adjustment. Tracking is adjusted at teh FRONT of that plate, one bolt holds the arm stopper, loosen it and adjust the stopper so that you are going in a straight line on flat smooth ground, tighten, and you are done.

 

[lugbolt]

oh and by the way, the dampers ideally should be replaced as a set so that both sides have the same "feel"

 

[easye9]

the control arms have a spring & ball detent that holds them in neutral (outward) position. Sometimes they didn't grease them very well at assembly (factory) and they'd rust. The ball would get rusted/stuck and usually the spring as well. Then when you go to pull the arms in, one hangs up because of corrosion, you automatically pull harder and bend the lever. Lube helps temporarily but the fix is to remove the arm completely from the chassis and remove the detent ball/spring and then replace it if it's rusted. Lubricate the new stuff with a good waterproof grease and install, you'll never have the problem again

as far as it turning circles there are several possibilities. (1) the linkage is bent. (2) the linkage has been monkeyed with-improperly. (3) the neutral position on the hst is out of adjustment and I suggest leaving it alone until you inspect the control linkages FIRST. (4), the entire pedestal assembly has 4 bolts that hold it to the frame. Perhaps the 2 bolts on one side came out. They would be at the bottom, under the fenders, on the outisdes of the frame. I have seen this. Tech from another shop did a campaign (recall) on it and left the bolts loose, they fell out and of course that affects the control arm linkages. (5) if you look at pic #2, right behind the F-N-R sticker you see a bolt. Look at the bolt, the plate that the bolt holds down has slipped or has been adjusted. That plate controls neutral. You loosen the bolts and then with the arms out and parking brake OFF, you move the arms forward or backward until you are no longer moving, then tighten those bolts. Many mistake that plate as a tracking adjustment. Tracking is adjusted at teh FRONT of that plate, one bolt holds the arm stopper, loosen it and adjust the stopper so that you are going in a straight line on flat smooth ground, tighten, and you are done.

First and foremost thank you for the detailed response.

1 Bold) Can I purchase that ball and spring at a general hardware store or Lowes / Home Depot?
2 Bold) What / Where is the linkage? I am double guessing that it is: in this pic and the item list as "A" that stops the handles from forward / reverse?

3 Bold) In the picture, is bolt #090 the four you are refering to?

4 Bold) With arm out and brake off, I am assuming the mower has to be on? That sounds kinda tricky, or am I reading it wrong?

Lastly, I did just now order the second Damper.

 

[lugbolt]

First and foremost thank you for the detailed response.

1 Bold) Can I purchase that ball and spring at a general hardware store or Lowes / Home Depot?
2 Bold) What / Where is the linkage? I am double guessing that it is: in this pic and the item list as "A" that stops the handles from forward / reverse?


View attachment 49276


3 Bold) In the picture, is bolt #090 the four you are refering to?


View attachment 49275


4 Bold) With arm out and brake off, I am assuming the mower has to be on? That sounds kinda tricky, or am I reading it wrong?

Lastly, I did just now order the second Damper.

(1) probably but you need to know the ball size and spring length/dia, requiring removal to measure--if the spring(s) are still intact

(2) no i said leave that alone until last resort, it is not in the picture

(3) no 90 is what holds the fenders on. The 4 bolts I Referred to go into the holes below 090, holds that entire assembly to the frame

(4) engine on, mower deck off. Loosen 180 and then Adjust 170 until it is no longer moving then retighten 180 which will lock 170 down tight. Adjusting tracking is done by loosening #170 (only one) and then adjusting 200 until it goes straight on flat hard surface, then tighten #170 to lock #200 down tight

(5) ok

 

[easye9]

I have to remove the bolt (#110) in the diagram above, and the picture that I just attached. I have the balls (#80) in the diagram, but need to take out the spring (#90) to match up at a hardware store. My question is bolt 110 is in a tight spot, and the bolt is tight. Best approach to it? Also does it matter where the handles are positioned? Sockets or wrench used to get that bolt?

 

[easye9]

I have to remove the bolt (#110) in the diagram above, and the picture that I just attached. I have the balls (#80) in the diagram, but need to take out the spring (#90) to match up at a hardware store. My question is bolt 110 is in a tight spot, and the bolt is tight. Best approach to it? Also does it matter where the handles are positioned? Sockets or wrench used to get that bolt?

Can anyone with knowledge on this help me out from my post above? Must I take off the cover and all to replace the ball and spring for the arms to be smooth, or can it be done like I have in the pictures above?

 

[lugbolt]

ain't no other way to do it to my knowledge

Had a coworker that tried to cuss them in. Didn't work.