Thoughts on this system for strapping tractor on trailer

30338

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Elizabeth
I've read a few threads on here and wanted to get some opinions on this setup. Tractor is L3560HST with LA805 loader. Filled tires. QH15 on back. Going to be renting a trailer 2x a year to haul it 400 miles each way for some farm work.

I added the JU Fabworks tiedowns on front and back. The front ones seem to provide a nice line for using chain tiedowns. Like a direct line to trailer if that makes sense. Pic attached.

The rear ones are well inside the R4 tires. Would a guy strap to the tie down and have chain wrap around tire to side of trailer? Or would I need to try and strap directly back to end of trailer from each tie down?

Or would using a big loop on tractor drawbar and just running chain there be safe? Lot of question but new at trailering a larger tractor and wanted some advice.

Lastly, these are the chains I am looking at. Thank you for any ideas.
 

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North Idaho Wolfman

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You cross the rear chains, right side of tractor attaches to left side of trailer and vice versa.
Front and rear chains should always be forward (for front) and rearward (for rear) of the tractor attachment points.
You should also have a chain and binder or a 10K ratchet strap for the loader and bucket, some states require it.
Also have one or two extra chains or straps for implements on hand.
 
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jaxs

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I run chain forward at no more than 22* r/l angle. As a safety on long haul and/or heavy traffic I add a 1/2" chain loop forward and aft that isn't under tension until when and if primary chains fail as in a collision. DOT website has helpful suggestions.
 
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Runs With Scissors

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I think @North Idaho Wolfman about nailed it.

When I switched from straps to chains, I decided that I liked the binders that fold down, but that is just a personal thing.

I never looked up the law here in MI, but for "ticket prevention" , I just throw a strap over the front bucket/grapple and the backhoe bucket. (or whatever is on the rear)......Takes 2 minutes and just gives me piece of mind.
 
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dirtydeed

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NIW summed it up nicely.

You could simply add a clevis to the drawbar and run a chain thru it and anchor it behind that point on both sides of the trailer.

I'd also suggest that you use 5/16" grade 70 chain instead of that 3/8". That chain that you show in the image is just too heavy to work with and way overkill for your needs.

also, legally in most states, you have to cover 1/2 the weight of the cargo with your chains/binders.
 
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rc51stierhoff

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Not to high jack the thread, but I’m am kind of curious for how / where people are attaching the chains on the rear and crossing them. I am not sure it is correct but I use a clevis off the drawbar as dirtydeed suggests…however that is not crossing the chains…how / where are folks attaching chains in the rear to cross them? Is there a way to do without chain binding on tire or against painted surfaces / critical points in the 3pt region? Pics would help. Thanks.
 

dirtydeed

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Not to high jack the thread, but I’m am kind of curious for how / where people are attaching the chains on the rear and crossing them. I am not sure it is correct but I use a clevis off the drawbar as dirtydeed suggests…however that is not crossing the chains…how / where are folks attaching chains in the rear to cross them? Is there a way to do without chain binding on tire or against painted surfaces / critical points in the 3pt region? Pics would help. Thanks.
here's all I do..if I happen to have a boxblade on instead, I just go right over the top of the boxblade to anchor that down as well. Gotta remember, most of our tractors are way under the 10K limit which carries some more DOT requirements...

New tow rig 1.JPG


New tow rig 2.JPG
 
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Runs With Scissors

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Not to high jack the thread, but I’m am kind of curious for how / where people are attaching the chains on the rear and crossing them. I am not sure it is correct but I use a clevis off the drawbar as dirtydeed suggests…however that is not crossing the chains…how / where are folks attaching chains in the rear to cross them? Is there a way to do without chain binding on tire or against painted surfaces / critical points in the 3pt region? Pics would help. Thanks.

I might be wrong, but I think NIW was referring to this specific situation, and crossing the chains as an example of 'best practices", since the OP put those tie down points on.

When I don't have an implement on the back, I also do the "clevis in the drawbar" trick.
 
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chim

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Here's one interpretation. In cases where the chain attachment to the tractor is forward enough that it interferes with running the chain to the same side of the trailer. If the chains are attached to the trailer without crossing them (RED) they pull against the tires. If crossed (GREEN) they don't.
 

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rc51stierhoff

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Here's one interpretation. In cases where the chain attachment to the tractor is forward enough that it interferes with running the chain to the same side of the trailer. If the chains are attached to the trailer without crossing them (RED) they pull against the tires. If crossed (GREEN) they don't.
I see / understand what saying there…are you using the BH subframe then for a tie down location? Does your chain not contact your 3pt arm stabilizers?
 

rc51stierhoff

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I might be wrong, but I think NIW was referring to this specific situation, and crossing the chains as an example of 'best practices", since the OP put those tie down points on.

When I don't have an implement on the back, I also do the "clevis in the drawbar" trick.
I use the tie down location on the BH if it’s on, or a clevis on draw bar when no BH. My preference would be to actually cross the chains, but I have not figured out a good way without potentially damaging something else…I am hoping I am overthinking things and there will be a KISS solution shared.
 

chim

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I see / understand what saying there…are you using the BH subframe then for a tie down location? Does your chain not contact your 3pt arm stabilizers?
This picture is of the rear end of my L4240 that I never hauled. This was just to illustrate "crossed chains". I have hauled my L3200 and B7500 when I had them. For that I used a clevis through the (real, not 3 point) drawbar and ran chains in a V without needing to cross them.
 
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bcp

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Something to consider if one of your crossed tie-downs breaks:


Bruce
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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Something to consider if one of your crossed tie-downs breaks:


Bruce
Yep.

I learned NOT to cross strap. Why? Because if you lose one strap, or chain, you basically lost 2. The opposite end and corner then goes slack and the tied down vehicle want's to spin. If, and when it spins, the other straps or chains ALL go loose.

I usually run straps or chains close to parallel, front to back, with the tractor. One at each of the four corners. And a strap over the front bucket and another over the rear implement, perpendicular... side of trailer to side of trailer.

If I'm on a long haul I'll run "oh Shoot" strap under the vehicle. Midline, front of vehicle to rear of trailer.

If ever I'm chased by zombies, I trigger my explosive bolt mechanism on each chain and the tractor falls off eventually. Unless I brake too fast, then the tractor crushes my truck and all occupants in a bloody mess.
 

Runs With Scissors

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Something to consider if one of your crossed tie-downs breaks:


Bruce
Very interesting.

I am trying to come up with a reason he is wrong, but I'm having a hard time.

I really liked that "mock up" he used. The visualization really helped.

Thanks for posting that. Definitely something to consider. (y)
 

GreensvilleJay

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I don't use straps to hold secure tractors or cars onto trailers and Never had a chain break in 5 decades.
I will use straps to 'hold down' the buckets though,like WHERE can the bucket go ???
 

GeoHorn

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The problem…as I see it…. is the Use of STRAPS.

Straps and the hardware on those things are notoriously failure-prone and Never capable of their rated load … performed One Time under ideal circumstances…..vs “working” loads which are when they’re months or years old and Re-Used and repeatedly stressed ….

I only use Chains. Chains do not suffer from stretching or abrasion like straps.

But that video does have a valid point regarding single-uses of cross-restraints.

If Fore and Aft restraints are used they should be supported and backed-up with side-ways restraints.… especially with the use of failure-prone straps.

”Chain, Chain, Chain…” - (Aretha Franklin)
 
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fried1765

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I think @North Idaho Wolfman about nailed it.

When I switched from straps to chains, I decided that I liked the binders that fold down, but that is just a personal thing.

I never looked up the law here in MI, but for "ticket prevention" , I just throw a strap over the front bucket/grapple and the backhoe bucket. (or whatever is on the rear)......Takes 2 minutes and just gives me piece of mind.
You actually LIKE those over center fold down chain binders?
I do not!
They are now too difficult for this old guy to use.
I would love to have the ratchet ones, but I am too cheap to buy any more binders.
 

Runs With Scissors

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You actually LIKE those over center fold down chain binders?
I do not!
They are now too difficult for this old guy to use.
I would love to have the ratchet ones, but I am too cheap to buy any more binders.
No. I did not explain myself well.

I like/have the ratcheting kind that fold down, like these.

1711703323141.png
 
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30338

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Elizabeth
A few have mentioned a hitch for the hitch bar. Is this what you are talking about:

Got my 4 ratchet devices. I decided to use 3/8" chains on the rear to keep tractor from going forward in a hard brake situation or at least hopefully prevent that. Using 5/16" chains on both sides in front. And have some heavy duty straps to get over the bucket or brush hog.

If that Clevis hitch is what folks are using, I may grab one of those too. Worst case that might be nice for dragging logs with when clearing cedar thickets.