Synthetic grease question...

[Diydave]

Thanks DIYDave!

Do you ever have any problems with the zerks getting broke off? Do you use loctite to keep the zerk in place? My neighbor suggested that I remove all 24 wheels and drill at a angle directly between the bearings, I like your way better!
Merry Christmas ! Please keep the rc30 ideas coming, it's like Christmas Day every day when I get on this forum!

I have not had the need for locktite, so far. When I first started the grease zerk project, I took off the outside set, and installed some HF bearing buddies, that I had adapted to fit in the dust cap holes. They kept getting knocked off 'cause they stuck out about 2" outside the track. The grease fittings in the caps only protrude slightly, if at all, so they snag very little, if at all...

Drilling at an angle, like you say would be very hard to do, cause the wheel is plastic, and the center is cast iron, and unless you have a very sharp bit, and a very good jig built for the drill press, it would likely skip sideways, when it hits the cast part.

I generally grease these on the hottest day of the year, and turn the machine off. That way I can hear the grease squirt out the back, as I feel the pressure increase in the hand pump...

 

[Bulldog]

As for the selection of grease, I wanted something that I can also use for the pins and bushings, in the loader arms and attachments. That's why I went with #1 instead of #2...

#1 grease is normally used in auto-lube systems so it can pump it thru grease lines. For everyday use in hand grease guns #2 works fine.

 

[ItBmine]

Shell Gadus. Use it in all our trucks and heavy equipment. Pumps and flows good in extreme cold too.

http://www.shell.ca/en/products-ser...g/products/types-oils-lubricants/greases.html

 

[redfernclan]

I have not had the need for locktite, so far. When I first started the grease zerk project, I took off the outside set, and installed some HF bearing buddies, that I had adapted to fit in the dust cap holes. They kept getting knocked off 'cause they stuck out about 2" outside the track. The grease fittings in the caps only protrude slightly, if at all, so they snag very little, if at all...

Drilling at an angle, like you say would be very hard to do, cause the wheel is plastic, and the center is cast iron, and unless you have a very sharp bit, and a very good jig built for the drill press, it would likely skip sideways, when it hits the cast part.

I generally grease these on the hottest day of the year, and turn the machine off. That way I can hear the grease squirt out the back, as I feel the pressure increase in the hand pump...

I worked at a saw mill for 10 years as a heavy equipment mechanic. We would drill and tap the dust caps as you said and then weld a 3/4 inch nut on the dust cap to protect the zerk. You might have to clean the mud out before finding the zerk to grease but other than that, it worked pretty good.

 

[Diydave]

I worked at a saw mill for 10 years as a heavy equipment mechanic. We would drill and tap the dust caps as you said and then weld a 3/4 inch nut on the dust cap to protect the zerk. You might have to clean the mud out before finding the zerk to grease but other than that, it worked pretty good.

I had considered that, either using a nut, or a piece of pipe, like they do on skidloader wheels valve stems, but really these don't stick out much more than the length of the fitting , from the track's width. Finally figured it would be a lot more welding, on them thin caps...