Strange Blade

chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
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Long story but after considering different implements to solve a problem with too much dirt one place and not enough in another a search on FBM led to buying the 84" Pequea blade below. It has height-adjustable scarifiers that flip up when not needed. The seller provided a very good description and the final price was $270. The seller said that the PO welded it so it wouldn't rotate left / right. It does tilt left / right OK.

I "unwelded" it spending a little time late yesterday and an hour today. with four 4-1/2" Harbor Freight death wheels and about 1/2 of a 4-1/2" grinding wheel. The blade was held by two very large nuts tightened against each other I don't know what size they are but my 15" Craftsman adjustable didn't open far enough to get on them. A pipe wrench and a cheater spun them without a lot of drama. I love DeWalt battery tools, but when the work went to leaning on a grinder for 1/2 hour at a time, I fired up the generator and grabbed the old B&D grinder.

The main tube of the frame looks like it filled with water and froze at some point because it expanded on the tractor end. Energetic whacks with a 3# hammer indicated it was still healthy. I do plan on uncapping anything that's sealed for a better look and a cleaning. I already drilled 4 drain holes in the bottom corners of the main tube.

With the exception of popping end plates off, disassembly is pretty much done. The next couple of sessions will be cleaning up and truing up any damaged holes. The scarifiers were attached with an assortment of nuts 'n bolts that I will replace with pins. It would be nice to add some clips to keep the scarifiers flipped up.

I have some preliminary thoughts on making a very robust axle for the rotation. It appears to have had welded-in bushings for the main and locking pins where they passed through the main beam. I'm considering modifying extra large hitch pins and pipe sleeves.
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Old Machinist

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Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
May 27, 2024
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That is a strange animal. I've never seen a grader blade with scarifiers. Not a bad deal for a fixer upper.
 

JohnDB

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M4500DT with FEL, back blade, Someca K28 hay mower, drag broom, post driver
Jun 9, 2018
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Those be meaty scarifiers! Perhaps the blade was welded up to keep it rigidly in position when the scarifiers were used. Operating at an angle would bend them sideways.
 

chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
2,913
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Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Cut the end cap off of the main tube yesterday. The inside had rust and some dirt. I have a list of parts to pursue - pins, bushings etc.

It appears the main reason for the PO to have welded it was that the pin that the blade rotates on is snapped about 1/2" down in the plate. Still thinking through the best way to access what I need to for the repair. Current thought is to use a GR8 bolt . The broken pin is 1-1/4"Ø, so I'm thinking that 1-1/4 or 1-1/2"Ø would work. When that's determined I'll use a sleeve. When the OD of the sleeve is known, maybe a hole saw will work. The old pin is harder than woodpecker's teeth, so I'd use the hole saw to cut the plate around the pin.

Big 10-4 on using the blade at an angle with the scarifiers down. That'd have a bad outcome.

While browsing the "real" hardware store I saw they have gallons of Ospho for $27. Amazon wanted $35.
 

D2Cat

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L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
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Cut the end cap off of the main tube yesterday. The inside had rust and some dirt. I have a list of parts to pursue - pins, bushings etc.

It appears the main reason for the PO to have welded it was that the pin that the blade rotates on is snapped about 1/2" down in the plate. Still thinking through the best way to access what I need to for the repair. Current thought is to use a GR8 bolt . The broken pin is 1-1/4"Ø, so I'm thinking that 1-1/4 or 1-1/2"Ø would work. When that's determined I'll use a sleeve. When the OD of the sleeve is known, maybe a hole saw will work. The old pin is harder than woodpecker's teeth, so I'd use the hole saw to cut the plate around the pin.

Big 10-4 on using the blade at an angle with the scarifiers down. That'd have a bad outcome.

While browsing the "real" hardware store I saw they have gallons of Ospho for $27. Amazon wanted $35.
Is it a national store? That is an excellent product at an excellent price.
 

chim

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Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
2,913
2,352
113
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Paul B Hardware. It's a local firm with a few locations. They offer services that I used before I retired. We used the Lititz location (actually in Lincoln, an area just West of Ephrata PA). I could email their fab shop a DXF file of something I drew up and they'd make it. I ran our fab shop and knew our limitations. When some of the more complex things came along, I wasn't too proud to farm them out. They also did powdercoating for us in one of their shops.

The hardware store is a place you could spend hours just browsing. I've bought individual ball bearing balls, pumps, humidifier filters, welding consumables, gears, belts, glass, made-to-order hydraulic hoses while u wait. Once when I needed more 1/8" Nycopress sleeves than were on the shelf, the guy went "out back" and when he came back he smiled and asked if I needed more than 5,000.

 

Runs With Scissors

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Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
3,422
4,415
113
Michigan
Long story but after considering different implements to solve a problem with too much dirt one place and not enough in another

Reading that just reminded me of one of the best movies ever……...

"What’s you dirt doin in my hole boy????????"


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chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
2,913
2,352
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Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Had lotsa time to ponder things that need done and the probable order of them. FINALLY had a chance to do a little work on the blade today. One picture shows the pin that broke below the surface of the plate. I wasn't sure exactly what might be inside the rectangular column but assumed the broken pin could be removed by cutting the (assumed) softer steel around it.

Out came the 2" hole saw. Having guessed that the pin was both pretty hard and also difficult to drill in the center, the approach was to make a guide from a scrap piece of plywood in lieu of using the 1/4" pilot bit. Low gear, slow speed and no lube with the DeWalt cut the slug in less time than I thought it would. I've used hole saws on thick metal before, but always with lube or water and faster RPM's. This time the speed was so low you could see the cutouts in the side of the hole saw as it rotated. The visible part of the plate is 1/2" but there's an added thickness inside the reactangular tube. The bushing fits very tight on the unthreaded portion of the bolt and is a close fit in the hole.

Next will be grinding the corners off of the GR 8 bolt head so it fits through the hole in the plow and welding the head to what will be the bottom of the bushing. Then the hole will be chamfered out so I can get a good weld between the bushing and the plate. Since the welds will be on the head of the bolt and the outside of the bushing the hope is the bolt's strength won't be affected by the heat.

Plenty more to do on the blade. There are three more places where welded-in sleeves will be needed. My "weldshop" is the driveway, so weather will play a role in the project.
 

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Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
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Looking good.

I see your “bushing” has a hole in it.

Is that for a zerk, or some other consideration?
 

chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
2,913
2,352
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Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Looking good.

I see your “bushing” has a hole in it.

Is that for a zerk, or some other consideration?
The hole is tapped and has an Allen setscrew (machine bushing) that the hardware store had with a bore that fits the GR 8 bolt really close. Won't be using the Allen screw.

I'm thinking about redoing the top plate to make it stronger. My first thought was to just complete the repair as outlined in the previous post. Then maybe add a second plate of 1/2" the same size on top of the existing plate and drill matching holes in it. Since it will live outdoors and get "salted" I was concerned about not being able to prevent water from getting in between the old and new plates at the holes. I'm still thinking about adding another plate, but cutting the existing plate off square (short of the holes) and then drilling new holes in the new plate only. The entire outer edge would be welded to more or less seal it up. Then I could grease the bejimminy out of the bolt and hope for the best.
 
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Dustball

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2016 B2650HSDC
Sep 15, 2023
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Is it a national store? That is an excellent product at an excellent price.
Ace has it for $27.99
 

Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
3,422
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Michigan
The hole is tapped and has an Allen setscrew (machine bushing) that the hardware store had with a bore that fits the GR 8 bolt really close. Won't be using the Allen screw.

I'm thinking about redoing the top plate to make it stronger. My first thought was to just complete the repair as outlined in the previous post. Then maybe add a second plate of 1/2" the same size on top of the existing plate and drill matching holes in it. Since it will live outdoors and get "salted" I was concerned about not being able to prevent water from getting in between the old and new plates at the holes. I'm still thinking about adding another plate, but cutting the existing plate off square (short of the holes) and then drilling new holes in the new plate only. The entire outer edge would be welded to more or less seal it up. Then I could grease the bejimminy out of the bolt and hope for the best.
That sounds like it would be plenty strong…..maybe even over’kill?

I personally think that even a “half ass” or “ok" paint job would be plenty good to keep corrosion at bay.

I suppose it depends on how many “generations" you need it to last for….;):LOL:
 

chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
2,913
2,352
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Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Not too concerned about the general painting and appearance. My concern was that water/salt gets between the existing and the new layers and causes rust jacking. I can't figure out how I'd seal where the two pieces of metal meet at the 10 hole locations. By having only the top (new) plate drilled it would eliminate the 10 unsealable seams.
 

Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
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I would suggest putting some sort of “sealant” between them and trying to stagger the welds, possibly letting them cool down for longer periods to prevent the heat from destroying the sealant.

Kind of like a ‘sealant sammich” ….We used to do it like that when I was working on jets.

However, we always used rivets, and 8802 (??? been a long time).

Just an idea….
 

chim

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Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
2,913
2,352
113
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
I would suggest putting some sort of “sealant” between them and trying to stagger the welds, possibly letting them cool down for longer periods to prevent the heat from destroying the sealant.

Kind of like a ‘sealant sammich” ….We used to do it like that when I was working on jets.

However, we always used rivets, and 8802 (??? been a long time).

Just an idea….
I like that. One of the YouTubers I watch uses what they call "weldable primer".
 

D2Cat

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L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
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40 miles south of Kansas City
Ace has it for $27.99
Thanks. I checked the price locally, and it is the same $27.99.