Starting Trouble

Henro

Well-known member

Equipment
B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini Ex.
May 24, 2019
1,228
279
83
North of Pittsburgh PA
Dave - Thanks for your help ! I just received the new fuel solenoid and installed it. That didn't fix the issue. I also put a new seat safety switch in as well. Tried starting with power to new solenoid and with power disconnected. With power to new solenoid it cranks and blows a 10A fuse immediately. With power disconnected from solenoid it cranks but won't start, but does not blow fuse. Do you think the solenoid relay could be the culprit?
Let's back up for a minute and look at one thing at a time. You are blowing a ten amp fuse when you try to start. Unplug the solenoid you have in place now and try to start. Does the fuse still blow? IF so the problem with the fuse blowing is not related to the new solenoid, as it is out of the circuit for this test.

Then look at the solenoid armature. Is it fully extended? If so, you may have the wrong part. Look at the old solenoid. Can you move the armature in by pushing on it, or pull it out by pulling on it? From the sounds of it, it is likely your solenoid should have the armature retracted, and it should extend on shutdown, for a short time, and then return to the retracted position by spring action. (I say this because you report that the tractor will start when the solenoid is removed.)

Did you check any of these things? If you got a solenoid that works opposite to the original your tractor will not start. BUT the wrong solenoid would likely not blow the 10 amp fuse. But it might if it is a totally wrong part.

If you are going to fix the problem, using logical trouble shooting steps to zero in on the root cause of your problem will be helpful.

Sure, the relay that activates the fuel shutoff solenoid could be a problem. As could a shorted wire somewhere in the circuit. But something does not sound right, unless the wiring diagram that was posted is not accurate for your tractor...Usually there is one root cause for a problem. BUT there could be two issues going on. Life is strange sometimes...

You CAN fix this if you just work through it step by step...
 

PoTreeBoy

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
428
105
43
WestTn/NoMs
I think we've been chasing the wild goose.
1. Where is this fuse that keeps blowing located? In the fuse block or separate?
2. Did you ever do the solenoid test where you connect both terminals to 12 volt and ground the case?
3. When did this start happening and do you have the fuse that blew the first time? Are you sure it was 10 amp?
 

Justin Charles

New member

Equipment
2008 Kubota MX5000SU
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
1
Ocala, Florida
I think we've been chasing the wild goose.
1. Where is this fuse that keeps blowing located? In the fuse block or separate?
2. Did you ever do the solenoid test where you connect both terminals to 12 volt and ground the case?
3. When did this start happening and do you have the fuse that blew the first time? Are you sure it was 10 amp?
The fuse is in the fuse block - 2nd one up from bottom- it’s 10amp for sure.
This problem began about 10 days ago.
 

PoTreeBoy

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
428
105
43
WestTn/NoMs
The fuse is in the fuse block - 2nd one up from bottom- it’s 10amp for sure.
This problem began about 10 days ago.
For the record, I think I have misled you in the past thinking that your timer was a shutoff timer, not an OPC timer. Your solenoid needs to retract to allow the engine to start and run. That's why I've repeated advising the solenoid test.
 

Justin Charles

New member

Equipment
2008 Kubota MX5000SU
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
1
Ocala, Florida
Having replaced the solenoid with an exact new solenoid with no change , I'm pretty sure that isn't the issue. I'll be replacing the relay to the solenoid next , since power goes to the relay first, then on to the solenoid. If the relay is bad, it could be shorting and blowing the fuse , killing any power to the solenoid. It will start without the solenoid in place , but not if you only disconnect the wires to the solenoid. ( since the piston isn't retracting ) . I know I'm flying by the process of elimination, but for the few dollars I have in parts, I'm still saving a ton by doing the repair myself. The Kobota dealer is $ 110.00/hr labor. I've also traced the wiring and don't see any breaks or bare wire going to ground. Electrical problems are always the worst !
 

PoTreeBoy

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
428
105
43
WestTn/NoMs
Having replaced the solenoid with an exact new solenoid with no change , I'm pretty sure that isn't the issue. I'll be replacing the relay to the solenoid next , since power goes to the relay first, then on to the solenoid. If the relay is bad, it could be shorting and blowing the fuse , killing any power to the solenoid. It will start without the solenoid in place , but not if you only disconnect the wires to the solenoid. ( since the piston isn't retracting ) . I know I'm flying by the process of elimination, but for the few dollars I have in parts, I'm still saving a ton by doing the repair myself. The Kobota dealer is $ 110.00/hr labor. I've also traced the wiring and don't see any breaks or bare wire going to ground. Electrical problems are always the worst !
Yes, but why doesn't the fuse blow when the solenoid is disconnected but the relay is connected?
Let us know what you eventually find.