pokey1416
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L4060HSTC, BH92 Backhoe, HLA Snow Pusher, Dirt Dog Tiller, EA DiscHarrow
The stop block should fix the pin issue on the QA provided the pin tips don’t fail. Would be a Mod to QA if the stops are not present.I’m liking the solid flat stock option. Pinned at both levers there’s no way they can move. Bolt or weld a scabbard on each implement and you should be set.
FYI I can verify that the stop block works. Bolt hitting it keeps pins from retracting further and dropping your attachment. That’s solved!
Sounds good, I'm just not going to lengthen the levers solidly (welded) because it will strike against the upper area of the back of my pallet forks frame when trying to scoop it with the quick attach.The stop block should fix the pin issue on the QA provided the pin tips don’t fail. Would be a Mod to QA if the stops are not present.
QA Handle
Cut a section of flat bar stock of equal thickness the length from outside to outside of the QA handles (about 6 in past where your hand would grab on each side)
Weld or bolt one side of the flat stock bar to the opposite side you would go to first, the two hitch pins go on your first pick side. Do you stand in front of the bucket, tractor parked? To the side?
I like the two pin setup, because if there’s too much upward movement between the two new arms we accomplished nothing here.
This would only lock the handles down. Any attempt to raise them when locked together would bend the arms or pivot points. By this point the branch should be obvious.
Sounds good, I'm just not going to lengthen the levers solidly (welded) because it will strike against the upper area of the back of my pallet forks frame when trying to scoop it with the quick attach.
Saw the pictures. Is there something there for me to note? Looks more or less like how my ssqa fits both my bucket and forks. My forks are Martatch, differently shaped. When the ssqa levers are up, for hook up, and the ssqa is curled down a bit for better access to the top slot on the forks, the levers' top tip will often contact the pallet forks frame and nudge it down a bit before I can hook in fully. I often have to curl back a bit and get myself down there again to raise the lever up fully so the pin doesn't interfere with hooking properly.Skid Steer Quick Attach
Thanks guys. Looks like nothing's wrong with either the plate or hitch. Even though the hitch and plate both seem to be within specs, I'll be using this particular plate for something that's lightweight like a trailer mover and use a plate, on my pallet forks, I have from another manufacturer...www.orangetractortalks.com
Check post 22, second picture
No hate and discontent from this guy, xrocket!I am glad you guys have it all figured out. I have created enough hate and discontent ...
My job here is done!![]()
This thread has been great. Please post pics when you’re done.Saw the pictures. Is there something there for me to note? Looks more or less like how my ssqa fits both my bucket and forks. My forks are Martatch, differently shaped. When the ssqa levers are up, for hook up, and the ssqa is curled down a bit for better access to the top slot on the forks, the levers' top tip will often contact the pallet forks frame and nudge it down a bit before I can hook in fully. I often have to curl back a bit and get myself down there again to raise the lever up fully so the pin doesn't interfere with hooking properly.
Other's tractor/forks/ssqa/loader combo may not encounter the lever nudging "issue".
So definitely not looking to lengthen the levers in a solid (welded) way. A steel bar pivoting on a bolt through the end of one lever, which can hook to the opposite lever with a linch pin and lock it down, is the direction I'm going now.
I'm digging around in the hardware disaster zone in my garage today for some parts to try an idea for this.This thread has been great. Please post pics when you’re done.
Happy New Year everyone!
I have had my levers popped open by tree limbs when pushing brush.I have never had mine open, did you have something happen that you made this mod?
Great design, simple and functional. Get a patent on it!Done.
Those are 1/2" bolts. They're what I had around.
I figured out the concept and action with a piece of wood for a template, then just made do with "junk".
Ugly but effective!
I heaved on it heavily to check for play and there's very little, and what play there is still keeps those pins back inside their head stopper so I'll trust that a stick will break or bend first.
Thanks!Great design, simple and functional. Get a patent on it!
That'll work!Welded a length of chain to the levers with a small carabiner snap hook to prevent inadvertent opening of the latches from sticks, etc. Will thread the chain through a piece of silastic tubing so the paint doesn't get rubbed through. Picture was taken with the bucket hyper-extended in the dump position.
With the handles fully down the pins are blocked from rising more than about 1/2". Please see previous posts and photos (post #50, pic #1). Raise a locking lever 2" (to about horizontal) and the pin is pulled out from under the stop block, and can rise further if pushed from below, but still is not fully clear or the fork frame. But enough to fully compress the pin spring.Seat Switch is required by Outdoor Power Equipment Safety standards that cover a LOT of countries. Don't have a choice, from the smallest garden tractor to ANY tractor than can be fallen off of or turned over. That standard pretty much includes ALL tractors and a lot of other equipment too. If the safety being completely mechanical is a need, I guess you could tie a string to the coil wire if you had a gasser. But since there's no ignition system on a diesel, that's a little harder to do with a string, but I guess you could still come up with a butterfly in the intake that would shut off air flow.
The seat switch is to shut the engine down if the operator leaves the seat and the transmission is engaged, or the PTO. Kubota has been generous enough to provide a new option on the LX models that allows operating the PTO with the seat still down by locking the brake, putting the range selector in N, and then pushing an override button for about 10 seconds. This allows using stationary equipment like chippers. Miss one detail, you shut the engine down. Simple safety. It works.
But back to the subject at hand, I'm not quite sure that a chain that heavy would be required, and I'd probably opt for some kind of pin latch if I was that worried about it coming out. If 'sticks' come up behind that adapter plate, stiff enough to operate those levers, you're about to either rip a front tire apart or relocate your radiator to the 3 point hitch. As someone else pointed out, they latch by cam action over center and are spring loaded. On top of that, you didn't pin the actual latches, only the handles. You did know those handles can be fully engaged and the latch still not fully engaged, right? What's to stop the same 'stick' from pushing the latch pin out of it's hole? The latch pins not fully engaging is more often than not what creates hazards, despite the handles being fully down. There's no substitute for a visual confirmation that the latch pins are fully engaged. So, chaining the operating handles really isn't going to help much to prevent the problem you're targeting.
To each his own, though. Not criticizing, just debating.
My SSQA lever lock has performed flawlessly so far. And I've certainly given it reason to let go - had some pretty thick branches jammed up in there last week while trail breaking in the back 80.Perfect solution. Can't see those going anywhere. Keep us posted on how they work.
My latches ARE hydraulically operated/latched.Drill a hole in the end of each handle.
Get a strong bungee cord (about 18"-2')
Put one end in the hole at the end of the handle,
Wrap the bungee around the bar of the front loader QA plate.
Put the other end into the end of the other handle.
Easy peasy.
I still want a kit to automate/power mine.