Replacement for obsolete hydraulic connector?

joea

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Aug 2, 2020
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'Looking for a replacement/equivalent for an obsolete Kubota fitting.

It's a "bulkhead connector" p/n 70090-20966 "straight thread bulkhead connector 9/16-18 SAE" (aka ORB or #6 SAE ORB).

The quick connect couplers that came with the top and tilt kit (may have got the last one) are 1/4" AG type with female 9/16-18 SAE ORB ends.

When I went shopping, I could not find those bulkhead connectors so went with JIC and some swivel adapters.

That seemed reasonable at the time but now that I am doing the mock for the valve mount and bulkhead plate, I kinda don't like how far the quick connect sticks out with the adapters and all.
l
So, if anyone knows where I can get 4 or 6 of those, I'd like to hear.
 

TheOldHokie

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'Looking for a replacement/equivalent for an obsolete Kubota fitting.

It's a "bulkhead connector" p/n 70090-20966 "straight thread bulkhead connector 9/16-18 SAE" (aka ORB or #6 SAE ORB).

The quick connect couplers that came with the top and tilt kit (may have got the last one) are 1/4" AG type with female 9/16-18 SAE ORB ends.

When I went shopping, I could not find those bulkhead connectors so went with JIC and some swivel adapters.

That seemed reasonable at the time but now that I am doing the mock for the valve mount and bulkhead plate, I kinda don't like how far the quick connect sticks out with the adapters and all.
l
So, if anyone knows where I can get 4 or 6 of those, I'd like to hear.
Is this what you are looking for?
Newline products N2711-06-06



Dan

1649208860067.jpg
 

joea

Member

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B21 TLB
Aug 2, 2020
50
1
8
Marbletown NY
Is this what you are looking for?
Newline products N2711-06-06



Dan
Pretty much exactly what I want. Price is a bit steep, but, it is what I want.

I did just get off the phone with a local custom fab shop and was told I could use the JIC to JIC I have and just put an o-ring on it, it would work fine and they do it a lot.

Looks like there should be more to it than that, but, what do you guys think?
 

TheOldHokie

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Pretty much exactly what I want. Price is a bit steep, but, it is what I want.

I did just get off the phone with a local custom fab shop and was told I could use the JIC to JIC I have and just put an o-ring on it, it would work fine and they do it a lot.

Looks like there should be more to it than that, but, what do you guys think?
Interesting. This is going in my clever tricks file. My first reaction was "say what!! but after some thought I think the o'ring idea wil work fine in a low pressure application like this.

My main concern would be the length of the male JIC tip. Make sure it does not bottom out in the coupler port before the o-ring gets fully squeezed. I would also put the washer from an ORB fitting on the JIC fitting to mimic a real male boss adapter. That will also help a little with length.

The price on the real think is more than a little salty.....

Edit - use real ORB o-rings

Dan
 
Last edited:

joea

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B21 TLB
Aug 2, 2020
50
1
8
Marbletown NY
Interesting. This is going in my clever tricks file. My first reaction was "say what!! but after some thought I think the o'ring idea wil work fine in a low pressure application like this.

My main concern would be the length of the male JIC tip. Make sure it does not bottom out in the coupler port before the o-ring gets fully squeezed. I would also put the washer from an ORB fitting on the JIC fitting to mimic a real male boss adapter. That will also help a little with length.

The price on the real think is more than a little salty.....

Edit - use real ORB o-rings

Dan
My first reaction was . . . skeptical, for sure.

Couple questions, what is a "real ORB" o-ring? I can steal the ones off the ORB adapters I have. Which bring up another question.

Some of the fittings/adapters I have that purport to be ORB, do not have a washer and I was wondering about that.
 

TheOldHokie

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OK, one more. How did you find New-Line? I searched diligently (so I thought) and came up with nothing.
First about Newline - i have used them in the past so Google's AI engine probably has a rule for that :oops:

I dont know what the dimensions of an ORB o-ring are so the safest is to just buy some from a hydraulic supply. Same for the washers.

If you look at a male ORB fitting you will find they all have an o-ring groove at the base of the hex. Your JIC fitting wont have that groove. That is basically the only difference. So the o-ring is going to be stretched a little oversize on a JIC fitting and wont be as far under the hex as on a real ORB fitting The washer is just insurance to make sure the washer is completely backed up by the hex. If you had a lathe you could easily turn that JIC fitting into a "real" ORB fitting by cutting an o-ring groove under the hex head but its going to work without it. Just be careful you don't tear the o-ring when tightening the fitting.

Dan
 

joea

Member

Equipment
B21 TLB
Aug 2, 2020
50
1
8
Marbletown NY
First about Newline - i have used them in the past so Google's AI engine probably has a rule for that :oops:

I dont know what the dimensions of an ORB o-ring are so the safest is to just buy some from a hydraulic supply. Same for the washers.

If you look at a male ORB fitting you will find they all have an o-ring groove at the base of the hex. Your JIC fitting wont have that groove. That is basically the only difference. So the o-ring is going to be stretched a little oversize on a JIC fitting and wont be as far under the hex as on a real ORB fitting The washer is just insurance to make sure the washer is completely backed up by the hex. If you had a lathe you could easily turn that JIC fitting into a "real" ORB fitting by cutting an o-ring groove under the hex head but its going to work without it. Just be careful you don't tear the o-ring when tightening the fitting.

Dan
Thanks for your insights.

The JIC to ORB adapters I bought do not have a groove (or a washer). The JIC to JIC bulkhead connector I have, on the short side, has an area of "no thread" at the hex which measures about the same as where the o-ring sits on the adapter. Pic below, o-ring removed from adapter. The hex is quite a bit larger on the bulkhead fitting, but the "finish" on the face is not as smooth as on the adapter. Don't know it that really means anything for sealing.

I do have a mini lathe, an old unimat, but my skills are somewhat, well . . . less than journeyman.


20220406_124743[1].jpg
 

joea

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B21 TLB
Aug 2, 2020
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1
8
Marbletown NY
How about this:
Not long enough for a bulkhead nut. I think I have settled on how to approach this. Either use the JIC I have, with the added o-ring, or buy the ones from new-line. Probably the first and if they leak, hope they still have some in stock.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I'm confused on what your connecting on the O-ring boss side?
 

TheOldHokie

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Thanks for your insights.

The JIC to ORB adapters I bought do not have a groove (or a washer). The JIC to JIC bulkhead connector I have, on the short side, has an area of "no thread" at the hex which measures about the same as where the o-ring sits on the adapter. Pic below, o-ring removed from adapter. The hex is quite a bit larger on the bulkhead fitting, but the "finish" on the face is not as smooth as on the adapter. Don't know it that really means anything for sealing.

I do have a mini lathe, an old unimat, but my skills are somewhat, well . . . less than journeyman.


View attachment 77846
Sorry for the tardy reply. My last post was typed sitting in the lobby of my hotel as I was preparing to head home. We just pulled in a few minutes ago.

Both of those fittings have the "groove" I was talking about. Its actually just a threading undercut below the shoulder on the hex. I did not realize JIC fittings had that undercut - I thought they were threaded right up to the shoulder. So just throw an o-ring on it and you are good to go. Washers are used on the "adjustable" fittings to protect the o-ring from the jam nut. I was suggesting the washer in lieu of the undercut so there should not be any need for one on those bulkhead fittings. I think your plan is spot on and I don't expect any leaks. I have used ORB fittings in plain UNF threaded ports before and they seal fine. You just have to be careful you don't overtighten them and rip the o-ring. Much more iffy than your case where you have the proper o-ring recess in the female port.

As to hex size the JIC to o-ring adapters are available in both large and small hex versions. The bulkhead fittings are usually large hex. I assume that has something to do with being clamped against a bulkead.

Dan
 
Last edited:

TheOldHokie

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joea

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Marbletown NY
Sorry for the tardy reply. My last post was typed sitting in the lobby of my hotel as I was preparing to head home. We just pulled in a few minutes ago.

Both of those fittings have the "groove" I was talking about. Its actually just a threading undercut below the shoulder on the hex. I did not realize JIC fittings had that undercut - I thought they were threaded right up to the shoulder. So just throw an o-ring on it and you are good to go. Washers are used on the "adjustable" fittings to protect the o-ring from the jam nut. I was suggesting the washer in lieu of the undercut so there should not be any need for one on those bulkhead fittings. I think your plan is spot on and I don't expect any leaks. I have used ORB fittings in plain UNF threaded ports before and they seal fine. You just have to be careful you don't overtighten them and rip the o-ring. Much more iffy than your case where you have the proper o-ring recess in the female port.

As to hex size the JIC to o-ring adapters are available in both large and small hex versions. The bulkhead fittings are usually large hex. I assume that has something to do with being clamped against a bulkead.

Dan
Thanks for the reassurance. I see the reasoning for the washer, I had noticed they were only on the fittings with a nut and not a machined hex, but I guess just needed someone to tell me.

Feel like I have learned quite a bit today. And saved some money - a Two Fer!

Pretty soon I can start cutting, drilling and etc. Still have to put my drill press back together, once I, hopefully, get the spindle run out cured. Still waiting for those Amazon special V-blocks to come in so I can find where best to press on it.

That, as they say, is another story.
 

TheOldHokie

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Thanks for the reassurance. I see the reasoning for the washer, I had noticed they were only on the fittings with a nut and not a machined hex, but I guess just needed someone to tell me.

Feel like I have learned quite a bit today. And saved some money - a Two Fer!

Pretty soon I can start cutting, drilling and etc. Still have to put my drill press back together, once I, hopefully, get the spindle run out cured. Still waiting for those Amazon special V-blocks to come in so I can find where best to press on it.

That, as they say, is another story.
Its a great work a round and you aren't the only one that learned something.

Since you are into building a custom solution you might want to think about panel versus base mounted couplers . One handed push/pull operation and break away protection.

Dan

20210922_082307.jpg
 

TheOldHokie

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BTW - something else I learned today. SAE ORB fittings use 90 durometer AS568 900 series o-rings. The fitting dash size is the last two digits of the AS568 oring number - e.g. a -6 ORB fitting uses a number 906 o-ring.

Dan
 
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joea

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B21 TLB
Aug 2, 2020
50
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8
Marbletown NY
BTW - something else I learned today. SAE ORB fittings use 90 durometer AS568 900 series o-rings. The fitting dash size is the last two digits of the AS568 oring number - e.g. a -6 ORB fitting uses a number 906 o-ring.

Dan
That's good to know. I see then offered for pennies when I've been paying a buck a piece.