Removing Cab from a Grand L 40

[imarobot]

I've had the seals in my tractor replaced by a dealer and they did not remove the cab. Another I checked dealer would have removed it.

 

[Workerbee]

I've had the seals in my tractor replaced by a dealer and they did not remove the cab. Another I checked dealer would have removed it.

Dang, thatd sure be nice to not have to pull the cab off. Ive looked at the situation on this tractor and sure cant envision a way to get at the bolts holding the tractor together with the cab on. Did they modify the floor of the cab? Or use some sort of juju to see and get on the top bolts?

 

[Workerbee]

To get back to the leaking shaft, the issues stems from when Kubota moved the front wheel driveshaft so it runs inside the housings instead of outside in a tube routed through recesses. They discovered pretty soon that the seals they used on the shaft were not tight enough fitting around the shaft. The solution was to redesign the seal so its about 0.010" tighter - and put in two of them. Same shaft, cheap new seals, but BIG job to put them in, espeially on a cab tractor. The shaft itself is quite long - when its in place it sticks out front and back. The seals are about half-way back, at the front of the first gear case, just behind the clutch housing. (leakage goes into the clutch housing and can drain out the bottom hole.)

Back when I had my L48 apart for its failed HST cradle bearings (long story here - see bottom of 5th page and Post #50 for his subject) I installed the revised front driveshaft seals (same as on many other models). There are some pics and WSM pages showing a drawing of the shaft sticking out, and some words about putting in the seals. They fit much tighter on the shaft, requiring 75 lb or so to push along into place on the shaft before putting the shaft back in. My rig was split in 2 places to get the HST down, but you may be able to do it all from the front. You'll need to feel around a bit to get the far inside end of the shaft into its coupling. (zoom up the pic to see the hole the shaft fits into.)

Another factor here is the newer Grand-L40 models may have still other version(s) of that seal? When (if) you order parts, be sure your dealer finds the right revised seal for your tractor's S/N.

Whether the cab is in place or lifted away, this is not a quick job - avoiding it is worth buying several packages of "oil diapers". Just sayin'....

Hope this is useful - Take care, Dick

I can stand a small leak, but they never get better, and if at some time we want to trade for newer, the repair would sure be deducted, so not much sense to not fixing it when we get time.

 

[imarobot]

Dang, thatd sure be nice to not have to pull the cab off. Ive looked at the situation on this tractor and sure cant envision a way to get at the bolts holding the tractor together with the cab on. Did they modify the floor of the cab? Or use some sort of juju to see and get on the top bolts?

Not sure how they did it, but they did not modify anything. They told me they have done this repair many times and figured out how to do it.
Had it done by Chappell Tractor in Milford, NH 603-673-2640. Maybe if you contact them, they can give you more info. They have been great and helpful people to deal with.

 

[rbargeron]

Added info to post #20 above about possibly getting at the engine bolts by lifting the dash. No ju-ju - just wrenches

 

[Workerbee]

Thanks Dick,
Thats certainly helpful and appreciated