Looking at the pics on your setup and thats a great job on those steel lines much cleaner than a birdsnest of hoses, what type of ends are they,Flared? where did you get the tubing ,steel or alum.
Rear remotes on a B2620 ( my version anyway)
- Thread starter Burtonbr
- Start date
I wanted to run as much as I could in rigid tubing to keep it as small and clean as I could. I wanted to run the lines more together than I did, but with the min bend radius that was as close as I could run them.
I used steel 3/8" tubing and the 1/4" is stainless but that is hard to flare.
I thought that JIC 37 deg flared fittings would be best in the long run, but I had never bent or flared any tubing before so that was a little added expense and a few scrapped lines learning. The bender was about $40 and I didn't want to fight with leaking connections so thought i better get a decent flare tool, the Rigid one I got was $106.
It was fun learning to work with the tubing and now if I have a repair in the future there's enough tubing and fittings left over to handle it.
I will add a diverter to the curl circuit of the loader soon and I'll run as much as I can in tubing annd try to keep it clean.
I used steel 3/8" tubing and the 1/4" is stainless but that is hard to flare.
I thought that JIC 37 deg flared fittings would be best in the long run, but I had never bent or flared any tubing before so that was a little added expense and a few scrapped lines learning. The bender was about $40 and I didn't want to fight with leaking connections so thought i better get a decent flare tool, the Rigid one I got was $106.
It was fun learning to work with the tubing and now if I have a repair in the future there's enough tubing and fittings left over to handle it.
I will add a diverter to the curl circuit of the loader soon and I'll run as much as I can in tubing annd try to keep it clean.
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And so it begins,I ordered my compact loadervalve yesterday. Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery. lol
What source did you use for your tubing?
What source did you use for your tubing?
I'm leaning towards just cutting my rigid line and using compression adapters or brazing on the jic nipples. How much fluid should i be prepared to catch when i pull the lines off the 3ph. You interested in selling the hard line you took off?
When I removed the feed tube to the 3PH I didn't lose more than 8-12 oz. I think, I was ready to catch all 4 gals though.
I put all take off parts up to reuse if I ever needed to replace or return it back to stock so I want to keep them, especially now that I see its about $60 for that tube and the bolts are $7 each.
Dang, parts are not cheap.
You could probably do what your thinking with some fittings and rigid tubing, though I don't think I would plumb everything in hard tubing unless they are mounted to the same thing, I wanted some rubber lines between the tractor and valve for vibration dampening might not be needed I just thought it was a bit safer.
I put all take off parts up to reuse if I ever needed to replace or return it back to stock so I want to keep them, especially now that I see its about $60 for that tube and the bolts are $7 each.
Dang, parts are not cheap.
You could probably do what your thinking with some fittings and rigid tubing, though I don't think I would plumb everything in hard tubing unless they are mounted to the same thing, I wanted some rubber lines between the tractor and valve for vibration dampening might not be needed I just thought it was a bit safer.
Did you get your grapple hooked up? What size lines did you run forward #4? I contacted Anbo about there grapple, it was $1500 plus shipping,wow!
Grapple is shown here in action, haven't taken it off since I first installed it. Very handy
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9855
I would have liked to bought the W.R. Long add on grapple but it was more than I was willing to pay.
I used all 1/4" lines except for feeding and return lines on the aux. valve they are 3/8" like the one that is removed from the 3ph.
Figured they have enough flow for the loader cylinders it should be enough for this one too. I would have liked to use the same type single wire hose like on the loader but no one stocks it only double braided type so it a bit thicker dia. Hose but there's room to run it up the left side under the floorboard. It took 4 - 7'-6" hoses to run up to the front, for the money that cost and the fittings I just about could have bought everything I needed to add the diverter, oh well live and learn.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9855
I would have liked to bought the W.R. Long add on grapple but it was more than I was willing to pay.
I used all 1/4" lines except for feeding and return lines on the aux. valve they are 3/8" like the one that is removed from the 3ph.
Figured they have enough flow for the loader cylinders it should be enough for this one too. I would have liked to use the same type single wire hose like on the loader but no one stocks it only double braided type so it a bit thicker dia. Hose but there's room to run it up the left side under the floorboard. It took 4 - 7'-6" hoses to run up to the front, for the money that cost and the fittings I just about could have bought everything I needed to add the diverter, oh well live and learn.
I used quick connects at the loader mount so I could still remove the loader, 2 from the rear valve to the loader mount that stay on the tractor and 2 from the loader mount to the cross tube on the loader that stay attached th the loader if disconnected, I used a scrap piece of hose run around through the tractor to get the right length, just a coincidence the 2 sections were approx. the same length.
Oh makes sense , Did you just use generic quick couplers or match them to the ones ours came with. I see some people pair there couplers so the males on the hose and the females on the block(or vise versa) so you never have to worry about crossing them. UPS shows my valve coming on Wed. Thanks for being my mentor in this project,happy Memorial Day.
Larry
Larry
I'm cheap, so I wouldn't pay the kubota price to match the couplers, I used these
http://www.hoseandfittingsupply.com/product-p/isobset.htm
I liked the idea of not being able mix the hoses so I staggered the ends so they only connect one way . You can't really tell in this photo but one hose has the male and the other has the female.
http://www.hoseandfittingsupply.com/product-p/isobset.htm
I liked the idea of not being able mix the hoses so I staggered the ends so they only connect one way . You can't really tell in this photo but one hose has the male and the other has the female.
