The last time we changed the fuel filter on my Hitachi excavator with a Kubota 2203 diesel motor the spring in the bottom of the bowl was not put back so the filter was basically doing nothing sitting on the bottom of the bowl. The engine started running poorly so first thing I did was change the filter myself. Low and behold the spring wasn't in the bowl. I didn't change the filter last time. I determined that cylinder #4 was not changing running when I cracked the fuel line at the injector. I decided because this excavator is 20 years old it wouldn't hurt to install four new injectors. That didn't solve the problem so I called my friend the heavy equipment mechanic to have a look. He broke the fuel line at the pump loose on cylinder #4 and in so doing loosened the fuel delivery holder also. Whoops. Then he cranked the fuel delivery holder real tight and in so doing caused something to go out of whack in that section. He told me to run a can of diesel motor cleaner through the engine. No help. The engine was blowing lots of black sooty smoke which it wasn't before he tried to fix it. Being a stubborn bugger I pulled the injection pump and took that one section for cylinder #4 apart and cleaned everything out of all the parts. I ultrasounded all the various parts and then wet them with diesel fuel and reassembled that section. I made sure the gear that goes to the sliding shut off rod was lined up correctly. etc., etc.. Now I am not sure how to get that sliding rod's 90degree short rod to go into the mechanism that would move it to shut the engine off. Hydraulics are my specialty not engine mechanics. I am not a mechanic. Welding, fabrication, machining, hydraulics no problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
re-installing injection pump on V2203
- Thread starter Black Forest
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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You slide the rack to where the pump will fit into the motor, there is a slot in the block.
With it in that location it should go into the slot on the governor linkage.
With it in that location it should go into the slot on the governor linkage.
OK, I will let you know how it goes. If this doesn't work then you have to come to the Black Forest of Germany and help me out!!!!!!
North Idaho Wolfman
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Next question. When 12v are applied to the shut-off solenoid it should retract the rod, correct? Second, The slot you are referring to that the rack rod slides into, is that two separate pieces. As in when facing the motor the left side vertical piece that makes up the slot moves independently of the right side. Thirdly, shouldn't that slot move left and right with the movement of the throttle cable? When I move the throttle back and forth nothing is moving in regards to the slot.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Great to talk with you (for others, we had a phone tech call).
Just to follow up for future and others:
That models stop / run solenoid has 2 coils one coil is the pull in coil and the second it the hold coil.
The hold coil gets power whenever the key is in run mode.
The pull in coil only gets power when it's cranking.
You said your issue is it will run then suddenly die, like you turned the key off, it's most likely that the hold coil is failing when it gets hot, pull the solenoid off, tape up the hole and run it, if it doesn't die then replace the coil.
And yes the mechanism for the fuel injector rack movement is several pieces.
And movement of the throttle lever is not directly connected to the rack, it's done through the governor linkage.
If the engine starts and runs and changes RPM when you move the throttle, then the pin on the rack of the injection pump is in the right location on the governor rack.
Just to follow up for future and others:
That models stop / run solenoid has 2 coils one coil is the pull in coil and the second it the hold coil.
The hold coil gets power whenever the key is in run mode.
The pull in coil only gets power when it's cranking.
You said your issue is it will run then suddenly die, like you turned the key off, it's most likely that the hold coil is failing when it gets hot, pull the solenoid off, tape up the hole and run it, if it doesn't die then replace the coil.
And yes the mechanism for the fuel injector rack movement is several pieces.
And movement of the throttle lever is not directly connected to the rack, it's done through the governor linkage.
If the engine starts and runs and changes RPM when you move the throttle, then the pin on the rack of the injection pump is in the right location on the governor rack.
Because this discussion is on topic I decided to reply rather than start a new thread. I've recently replaced my V1902 with a used engine. I had to swap the fuel cam to make it compatible. Now that its back together and installed I'm not getting fuel. I've had the injection pump out and checked to make sure the linkages are all correct and it appears that way. There doesn't seem to be any movement available for the throttle shaft to move forward on the pump, only backwards into the stop position. When the engine is cranked the stop lever moves to the stop position with no solenoid connected. When the key is turned off it snaps back to the run position. Naturally there is barely any fuel coming out of the pump because there's no throttle. I performed this same swap years ago with no issues. I'd really appreciate any good advice.
North Idaho Wolfman
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You can't take the advice in this thread and use it, as your system is exactly the opposite.
You have a timed stop solenoid not a run solenoid.
When you installed the fuel cam did you line up all of the timing marks?
When you reinstalled the gear case did you install the start spring?
When you installed the throttle / governor linkage did you install the 2 springs on that?
When you installed the Injection pump did you engage the rack pin with the governor slot?
When you installed the stop plate it the pin behind the governor linkage?
Pictures will help if you are still having issues.
FYI: Your fuel control and delivery system is exactly the same as my L3450, the variance is after the pump where you have and IDI engine with standard injectors, where I have a DI engine with pencil injectors.
Thanks very much for taking the time to respond. I understand what you're saying about the differences between DI and IDI, however I'm not currently using the stop solenoid as I said. It can be operated manually with no issue. The answer to all your questions is yes. The issue for me is throttle. When I move throttle it only tensions the spring on the governor.
I took the best photos I could. Hopefully they offer a clue.
And she's running. I removed the timing shims, went through the bleed process again and after enough cranking fuel finally made it to the injectors. Its running a little rough most likely due to incorrect timing but this is a huge relief. The throttle is functioning as it should.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Yes moving the throttle linkage only moves the governor, and not the rack.
The rack will move when the RPMs of the engine are right.
Full forward is the start position.
And yes reinstall of of the shims it originally had WITHOUT sealer, to get timing back into spec.
The rack will move when the RPMs of the engine are right.
Full forward is the start position.
And yes reinstall of of the shims it originally had WITHOUT sealer, to get timing back into spec.
What puzzled me was that the injection pump was not shooting up much of a fountain at all. At best maybe 1 inch which seems very weak. All's well that ends well hopefully. Not quite there yet!