PTO shaft stuck on implement

[icehorse]

You already have an overrunning clutch built into the tractor. Before they started putting them into the tractor if you were using a shredder type implement, when you pushed in the clutch you disconnected the engine from driving the rear wheels BUT the shredder was still able to provide power to the rear wheels driving the tractor forward. The overrunning clutch allowed the mower to spin down without driving the tractor forward. Think of it like a ratchet wrench that only drives one direction.

The slip clutch was designed to replace the shear pins on PTO shafts and act like a clutch that doesn’t slip under normal load but will slip (if properly adjusted and maintained) when the load limit is reached. Then it starts driving the PTO shaft when the load is cleared to be below the set point of slipping.

Right. So I went ahead and ordered that slip clutch device I pictured a few posts back. I'll have to take off the existing protection shield and make a bigger one, which does not seem too daunting.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

#1 You need to get the pin to go all the way in for it to unlatch.
once the pin is in you can drive the yoke onto the shaft just a little to break it loose.
#2 If you need a puller to get it off, you wont hurt the gearbox because the puller goes to the end of the shaft and pulls on the yoke.
#3 You should not use the clutch on the tractor side. A shear pin front yoke would be a much better option.
#4 If the yoke won't come off the shaft, You be far better off just removing the shaft at the U joint and add in a new longer shaft, then when your done put the old shaft back on it.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

#1 You need to get the pin to go all the way in for it to unlatch.
once the pin is in you can drive the yoke onto the shaft just a little to break it loose.

+1 on this.

From your pic, it appears that the “locking pin” has a little bit further to compress.

Yanking/pulling/beating/torching sounds like an accident waiting to happen if that pin is not releasing the “locking ball”.

And like @North Idaho Wolfman suggests, tapping it “on” a little might help to break it free.

A little like having to tighten a "frozen bolt" a smidge to get it to “un-loosen”….

 

[icehorse]

#1 You need to get the pin to go all the way in for it to unlatch.
once the pin is in you can drive the yoke onto the shaft just a little to break it loose.
#2 If you need a puller to get it off, you wont hurt the gearbox because the puller goes to the end of the shaft and pulls on the yoke.
#3 You should not use the clutch on the tractor side. A shear pin front yoke would be a much better option.
#4 If the yoke won't come off the shaft, You be far better off just removing the shaft at the U joint and add in a new longer shaft, then when your done put the old shaft back on it.

I'm trying to better understand a few of your points:

#2 - I guess "puller" is unclear to me. There were a few pictures back in post #11 that I didn't understand, are those "pullers"? What seems unclear to me is that it doesn't really matter where on the yoke a pulling device is attached, all of the force of pulling will end up transferring to the gearbox until the yoke is free. Correct?

#3 - Can you explain why? I'm not disagreeing, I'm just not understanding. But to that end, have you ever seen a standalone shear pin adapter? I can't seem to find one. The reason that would be great me is then I could use it for both the tiller and my tedder. (And again, the shaft for the tedder is much, much longer.)

thanks

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I'm trying to better understand a few of your points:

#2 - I guess "puller" is unclear to me. There were a few pictures back in post #11 that I didn't understand, are those "pullers"? What seems unclear to me is that it doesn't really matter where on the yoke a pulling device is attached, all of the force of pulling will end up transferring to the gearbox until the yoke is free. Correct?

Not a great video, but it does demonstrate how to use a typical "3 jaw puller”.

Although there are a number of iterations of this style puller, this video shows the basic concept of how it will apply a force directly to your splined shaft and coupler instead of prying on your housing (which will most definitely break/crack it)

 

[icehorse]

Not a great video, but it does demonstrate how to use a typical "3 jaw puller”.

Although there are a number of iterations of this style puller, this video shows the basic concept of how it will apply a force directly to your splined shaft and coupler instead of prying on your housing (which will most definitely break/crack it)

Aha! thanks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm trying to better understand a few of your points:

#2 - I guess "puller" is unclear to me. There were a few pictures back in post #11 that I didn't understand, are those "pullers"? What seems unclear to me is that it doesn't really matter where on the yoke a pulling device is attached, all of the force of pulling will end up transferring to the gearbox until the yoke is free. Correct?

#3 - Can you explain why? I'm not disagreeing, I'm just not understanding. But to that end, have you ever seen a standalone shear pin adapter? I can't seem to find one. The reason that would be great me is then I could use it for both the tiller and my tedder. (And again, the shaft for the tedder is much, much longer.)

thanks

Yes as shown above the puller put no stress on the gear box at at all.

I do go back to point #1 knock that latch pin back and forth till the spring side easily shows full compression.
Then light tap on the yoke towards the gearbox should brake it free.

The shear pin yoke will attach top the tractor side of the shaft, it's a simple operation to swap the yokes.