Processing wood

[Jasonized]

So far, I’ve used this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mingo-Firewood-Marker-Measuring-Equipment/dp/B0013LGQ3A

It gives indeterminate results…. After a half dozen logs, I have to rotate the can, the nozzle gets pushed out somehow, and it doesn’t spray well. rotating the can makes it work again, go figure…

It also is not designed to be used while the log is on the ground.. the handle is at an angle that works best if you have the log in the air or hip height. I wanted something that would let me mark it on the ground, so I could pick up one end and cut it off at a mark. Keep the chain out of the dirt…
It does work, but I’m trying to put a handle on it so I don’t have to bend over!

 

[Runs With Scissors]

One nice thing about the magnets is they are cheap and easy to make for when you lose one.

I "lost" the original one I made on the lathe, So I just used a piece of old scrape angle and bent it up using a vice and hammer.

Then I found the original....LOL

Now they both sport a "visible red" paint job.

I was also suprised at how well they stick to the bar.

 

[Showmedata]

@Runs With Scissors I Bet you, like me, had to glue that screw into the dowel. Having the screw head on the brittle magnet is a flaw of those cheap magnets (I have the same), and the screw kept backing out on me.

 

[Hkb82]

I found it a lot better with just a heavy zip tie around the vertical part of the saws handle then cut to length. I actually then put a piece of maple sap line tubing over it. No need to do anything after plus it won’t get caught in the bar or chain. I’m not a big fan of the magnet style measuring tools. Not my picture but it shows what I’m talking about.

 

[fried1765]

Just one more good reason to get a backhoe.

I am going to try to use the ripper tooth in conjunction with the thumb to pick them up.

My thinking is that the "thin'ness" of the tooth will make it so that I don't have to cut near the steel bucket.

My 28" ripper tooth was rather expensive ($1,000), and I debated, long, and hard.
This is just another reason that I like it though.

 

[bbxlr8]

Love this thread as I am heavy into into it and still not sure if I have it down yet after getting the Kubota.

FWIW I will say it depends on your terrain & equipment - I will give you some thoughts on my before and after. I have sloped old-growth woods full of glacial deposit boulders that was not maintained and had a tremendous amount of deadfall and clean up to do when I moved here (I should have had my head examined)

BK (Before Kubota) I cut in place and walked/rolled the bucked rounds to my Ford 1210 with 5x6 HD trailer or my Jeep & 4x8 franken-trailer. Manual to the splitter and then manual with the trailer from processing area to entrance near my stove location (smaller stacks)

AK (After Kubota): WAY less manual labor any way you look at it.
1) I do have the BH with a manual thumb and it has helped tremendously for those "big sticks" that I can get near enough to. Only used a couple of times to hold the tree/stick to buck (but I like it )

2) I also went with a grapple based on input here and it is my main tool along with the bucket.
SO FAR, I judiciously build enough of a path (go BH77!) to get to the tree & 12' sections. I have built enough seasoned sticks (dead ash/oak) into several piles - one close to the processing area in sun and one up in the woods. Last season I did transport a lot of big sections by trailer and the grapple is gold loading/unloading.

I generally buck them up and then transport the rounds in the bucket to the splitter. Then depending on the needs, I go into a pile on either side or back into the bucket to transport to the pallets near the stove door entrance. I love the look of neatly stacked wood but that has not been in the cards for me the last two years. Also, move CSS bucket fulls as required from the piles and dump them onto pallets by the doors.

• The main goal is to eliminate the number of "touches" for any given piece of wood.
• Measuring -I have been on 24" blades on my big saw for the last 12Y and I ended up grinding a line/mark on the blade back from the tip 18" in my case. I find my eyeball estimate gets more off the bigger you go. Most are 18-32" (or less) but I get the occasional 36-48" rounds (back breakers)
• I estimate about 5 cords per season (and I am probably under )
• I only cut for myself or give away to friends as I have much more than I could ever process (considered selling as a side gig but that is a hard business)
• P. Forks & lbc would be great but getting by.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

@Runs With Scissors I Bet you, like me, had to glue that screw into the dowel. Having the screw head on the brittle magnet is a flaw of those cheap magnets (I have the same), and the screw kept backing out on me.

The "dowel" is actually an aluminum rod from the scrap pile that I drilled and threaded on the lathe, so its secured with a screw and lock-tite.

Now that angle one is a real "back yard" forged "hillbilly tool" that took 5 minutes to make "on the fly" from parts found in my "extra screw bin", with a hammer, vice, and drill.

 

[Chanceywd]

The "dowel" is actually an aluminum rod from the scrap pile that I drilled and threaded on the lathe, so its secured with a screw and lock-tite.

Now that angle one is a real "back yard" forged "hillbilly tool" that took 5 minutes to make "on the fly" from parts found in my "extra screw bin", with a hammer, vice, and drill.

I had a piece of a snow plow guide attached to a 3/8 bolt that screws into half of a coupling nut welded to the forward bar nut. I misplaced/lost it in the woods and made a new one with 3/8 fuel hose and that works good. I like my gauge on the right side. I had drilled and tapped a couple bars at first but found I wanted it more out of the way. The hose is flexable enough if i want to trim a branch etc without getting in the way. I might have to try the magnet idea, and painting for sure. I misplaced that first one and it hasn't shown up in several years of walking dogs in the woods.
Bill

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If you're in your forever home, have lots of free trees, heat with wood , you should consider a 'wood processor' Little ones are about $10K CDN and reduce the time to make firewood.
It takes a LOT of time to cut and split trees into bush cords of firewood. Using a WP, any extra firewood could be sold to offset the purchase.

 

[Showmedata]

If you're in your forever home, have lots of free trees, heat with wood , you should consider a 'wood processor' Little ones are about $10K CDN and reduce the time to make firewood.
It takes a LOT of time to cut and split trees into bush cords of firewood. Using a WP, any extra firewood could be sold to offset the purchase.

I split my wood by hand with a maul for two reasons:
1) I kinda like the exercise. Doing 2-3 cords/year it's manageable.
2) the 65yo woman across the road still splits her firewood by hand. If I have to buy a powered splitter before she does I may as well just toss my Man Card into the fire box.

All we grow here is Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir, so it's not very valuable as firewood to be sold.

 

[bbxlr8]

If you're in your forever home, have lots of free trees, heat with wood , you should consider a 'wood processor' Little ones are about $10K CDN and reduce the time to make firewood.
It takes a LOT of time to cut and split trees into bush cords of firewood. Using a WP, any extra firewood could be sold to offset the purchase.

In my world, 10K of any $'s buys a lot of heat or tractor "toys"

I also split by hand for many years for the exercise and because I liked it. However, the basic TSC/Speeco splitter is awsome in my book (except for that junk Kohler calls an engine - used the HF Predator as replacement)

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

My super inefficient setup. Once splits are in the bucket I go straight across the driveway to my stack area and dump, restack after 4-5 buckets.

Previous owner added the plate and wedge extension. I added the wings.

 

[SAR Tracker]

Just one more good reason to get a backhoe.

I am going to try to use the ripper tooth in conjunction with the thumb to pick them up.

My thinking is that the "thin'ness" of the tooth will make it so that I don't have to cut near the steel bucket.

I was thinking of getting a ripper tooth for exactly that reason. If we're careful about marking for 16", and I get the stock BH77 bucket between the marks, there's probably 2" on each side. In the couple of years we've been doing it this way, we've only had one "non-survivable encounter" between a chain and the bucket. $300+ for a ripper tooth will buy a lot of chains. JMHO.

 

[Firstgear]

We bought 24 acres in Maine. An area was cleared for a new home and an out building garage. In the process i asked to keep the oak and hickory logs. The tree cutter estimated there was 20-25 cords of wood there.

Here I am standing on some of it. We bought a L3560 and I bought in addition to other attachments a grapple for the sole purpose, at least initially, to grab the logs, position at a good height for me to be able to cut it into lengths.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I was thinking of getting a ripper tooth for exactly that reason. If we're careful about marking for 16", and I get the stock BH77 bucket between the marks, there's probably 2" on each side. In the couple of years we've been doing it this way, we've only had one "non-survivable encounter" between a chain and the bucket. $300+ for a ripper tooth will buy a lot of chains. JMHO.

I use the ripper tooth for other things too, so it's not a "one trick pony".

You would be amazed at how a ripper tooth can come in handy. Just another "tool" in my arsenal.

 

[g_man]

We bought 24 acres in Maine. An area was cleared for a new home and an out building garage. In the process i asked to keep the oak and hickory logs. The tree cutter estimated there was 20-25 cords of wood there.

Here I am standing on some of it. We bought a L3560 and I bought in addition to other attachments a grapple for the sole purpose, at least initially, to grab the logs, position at a good height for me to be able to cut it into lengths. View attachment 117042

View attachment 117043

They left you plenty of wood for sure !!



This is how I do most of mine - Cut it in the winter after freeze up

Work it up in early spring and mud season

Let it air dry until August or so

Then into the wood shed one bucket full at a time - The most inefficient part. But I stay a year ahead and have good dry wood.

gg