Please help kubota b7000

[marklmark]

Hello
I just bought kubota b7000 4x4 diesel 2 cylinder
I really love this mini tractor
I have few question a

I tried to find info on line , .. found nothing about this topic
I see in the manuals there is info about the oils
but this tractor its pretty old and most of the fluids in the manual is out of date
so i wounder
what's the best/recommended lubricating oil today :
engine oil :
hydraulic fluid :
gear oil axles:
transmission oil :

Thank you in advance

 

[85Hokie]

engine oil : A good 10w-30 DIESEL OIL ( you are not in a cold climate correct?)

hydraulic fluid : I am sure you will not find Kubota UDT there - buy something in the hydraulic oil family that is made for hydraulic pumps and whatnot

gear oil axles: - 85w90 will work fine

transmission oil : The tranny uses the same as the hydraulic system

If you are into synthetic oils - all of those will be beneficial all around!

 

[Dave_eng]

Hello
I just bought kubota b7000 4x4 diesel 2 cylinder
I really love this mini tractor
I have few question a

I tried to find info on line , .. found nothing about this topic
I see in the manuals there is info about the oils
but this tractor its pretty old and most of the fluids in the manual is out of date
so i wounder
what's the best/recommended lubricating oil today :
engine oil :
hydraulic fluid :
gear oil axles:
transmission oil :

Thank you in advance

Mark
I see you are from Portugal and need to know that your model was not officially sold in North America.
A B7000 would be considered an improperly imported tractor and not supported by dealers in North America.

The significance of this fact is that owners who have your model tractor would be posting in the GRAY section of the forum. The GRAY just signifying the improper importation into North America.

Which transmission does your tractor have?

You cannot go wrong using the Kubota UDT hydraulic fluid in the front axle and the transmission/hydraulic reservoir. There are cheaper alternatives and many owners have their favourite product.

A 10W-30 grade engine oil made for diesel engines. The diesel engine oil will have stronger detergents and suspension agents than products for gasoline engines. There is no need to go for more exotic and synthetic lubricants in the older machines.

Others will have more advice.

If you need more specific advice in the future, I suggest you post in the GRAY forum.

Dave

 

[marklmark]

85Hokie
Thank you !
ill try to see what they have here ...
i appreciate your help

 

[marklmark]

Mark
I see you are from Portugal and need to know that your model was not officially sold in North America.
A B7000 would be considered an improperly imported tractor and not supported by dealers in North America.

The significance of this fact is that owners who have your model tractor would be posting in the GRAY section of the forum. The GRAY just signifying the improper importation into North America.

Which transmission does your tractor have?

You cannot go wrong using the Kubota UDT hydraulic fluid in the front axle and the transmission/hydraulic reservoir. There are cheaper alternatives and many owners have their favourite product.

A 10W-30 grade engine oil made for diesel engines. The diesel engine oil will have stronger detergents and suspension agents than products for gasoline engines. There is no need to go for more exotic and synthetic lubricants in the older machines.

Others will have more advice.

If you need more specific advice in the future, I suggest you post in the GRAY forum.

Dave

Hi Dave
i understand.
next time i will
thanks for letting me know
and thank you for the information
ill buy from the dealership the UDT
so do you think there's no need to buy full synthetic oil...?
thanks

 

[Dave_eng]

Hi Dave
i understand.
next time i will
thanks for letting me know
and thank you for the information
ill buy from the dealership the UDT
so do you think there's no need to buy full synthetic oil...?
thanks

A downside to full synthetic oils is that they can be too good.

Generac, a major manufacturer of backup generators, advises customers to put some hours on the unit before considering a synthetic oil because the rings may not seat due to the high film strength of the synthetic oil.

Diesel engines which are not worked hard can develop a condition called "Diesel Slobber," also known as Wet Stacking.

In brief, a lightly worked diesel looses the seal between the piston rings and the cylinder and starts having lots of piston ring blow by which ends up with excessive stuff ending up in the exhaust....... messy.

Synthetic oils can contribute to that especially on an old engine which is what a B7000 is.

With modern engines, the engineering and manufacturing are designed to work with the most modern oils.

Dave

Dave

 

[marklmark]

A downside to full synthetic oils is that they can be too good.

Generac, a major manufacturer of backup generators, advises customers to put some hours on the unit before considering a synthetic oil because the rings may not seat due to the high film strength of the synthetic oil.

Diesel engines which are not worked hard can develop a condition called "Diesel Slobber," also known as Wet Stacking.

In brief, a lightly worked diesel looses the seal between the piston rings and the cylinder and starts having lots of piston ring blow by which ends up with excessive stuff ending up in the exhaust....... messy.

Synthetic oils can contribute to that especially on an old engine which is what a B7000 is.

With modern engines, the engineering and manufacturing are designed to work with the most modern oils.

Dave

Dave

interesting, so what do you say about the Kubota POWER 15W-40 or
POWER PLUS 10W-40?


oh and i read here that people use 80/90 gear oil. instead of Kubota UDT oil for front axles
because its more thick oil ...
what is your opinion about it ?
thank you !

 

[85Hokie]

IF you are in a climate that does not get extremely cold - the 80w90 is perfect, the UDT oil does fine too - however the UDT will flow a bit easier to all the moving parts when the temps get low.

You engine oil is much the same - if warm all the time , the 15w is fine, if you get in a cooler temp - go with 10w.

As for synthetics - there are those that love it and those would say why bother, the price factor is really no longer a factor - but I will tell you this , the inheriting factor of synthetics is that it has a smaller molecules that make old gaskets / O rings / etc "leak" - the oil is not the problem, the gaskets/ O rings are simply worn and the oil structure will find away around it a little easier.

This simply answer is - what temps are you dealing with? And more importantly, change the oil more frequently depending on usage.

 

[TheOldHokie]

As for synthetics - there are those that love it and those would say why bother, the price factor is really no longer a factor - but I will tell you this , the inheriting factor of synthetics is that it has a smaller molecules that make old gaskets / O rings / etc "leak" - the oil is not the problem, the gaskets/ O rings are simply worn and the oil structure will find away around it a little easier.

Say what???

Engine oil is a mixture of hydrocarbons with chains of many different lengths (sizes). The same compounds that you find in synthetic oil are also present in conventional oil. If they are going to leak they are going to leak regardless of how they got in there.

Conventional oil also contains a bunch of other undesirable hydrocarbons and impurites that degrade performance. That's why they are not in the engineered oil.

Dan

 

[RalphVa]

engine oil : 0w30 or 5w30 or 10w30 for diesels. Have M1 0w30 ESP in tractor and have enough to change out the 5w30 (bought from VW for its diesels, Castrol) for its 10 year change. DO NOT use 15w40 in colder weather. Your cranking speed may not be high enough to start the engine and certainly will not get flow to the upper end and pressurization for a few seconds to maybe more than a minute in cold weather.
hydraulic fluid : Think the UDT
gear oil axles: GL5
transmission oil : Same as hydraulic

 

[85Hokie]

Say what???

Engine oil is a mixture of hydrocarbons with chains of many different lengths (sizes). The same compounds that you find in synthetic oil are also present in conventional oil. If they are going to leak they are going to leak regardless of how they got in there.

Conventional oil also contains a bunch of other undesirable hydrocarbons and impurites that degrade performance. That's why they are not in the engineered oil.

Dan

This is what I was trying to explain is simple terms :

Under a microscope, a drop of synthetic oil shows millions of molecules all nearly the same size and structure. Conversely, mineral or conventional oil is made using refined crude oil. A drop of conventional oil under a microscope shows millions of molecules all with different shapes, sizes and structures.

 

[marklmark]

IF you are in a climate that does not get extremely cold - the 80w90 is perfect, the UDT oil does fine too - however the UDT will flow a bit easier to all the moving parts when the temps get low.

You engine oil is much the same - if warm all the time , the 15w is fine, if you get in a cooler temp - go with 10w.

As for synthetics - there are those that love it and those would say why bother, the price factor is really no longer a factor - but I will tell you this , the inheriting factor of synthetics is that it has a smaller molecules that make old gaskets / O rings / etc "leak" - the oil is not the problem, the gaskets/ O rings are simply worn and the oil structure will find away around it a little easier.

This simply answer is - what temps are you dealing with? And more importantly, change the oil more frequently depending on usage.

in January the average is 12C (53.6F)
rest of winter is about 18C (64F)
summer average 28C to 35C (82.4F- 95F)


i'm confused man ...

 

[TheOldHokie]

This is what I was trying to explain is simple terms :

Under a microscope, a drop of synthetic oil shows millions of molecules all nearly the same size and structure. Conversely, mineral or conventional oil is made using refined crude oil. A drop of conventional oil under a microscope shows millions of molecules all with different shapes, sizes and structures.

• You won't see oil molecules with a microscope. You need some very fancy probes and digital generation to "see" molecules and even that is sketchy at best.
• Todays "synthetics" are highly refined mineral oils. They are made using Group III and Group III+ base stocks. They have similar molecular makeup and don't leak anymore than a "conventional" oil. They also contain lots of very small molecules on the same size as a PAO molecule. The main advantage of PAO over these highly refined mineral oils is the PAO does not contain all of the other stuff that comes out of the ground.

Dan

 

[marklmark]

ok so according the Kubota dealership here

motor oil : Kubota power engine 15w - 40 \10w 40 oil ACEA E7 - API CI-4/CH-4/SL
i think the 15w40 is better for Portugal (its not cold here)

transmission\hydraulic : Kubota UTD API GL-4 OR SUPER UTD API GL-4- (EXTREAM PREUSSURE for COLDER TEMP)

front axles and front gear case oil :
2 OPTIONS

1: UTD \UDT SUPER
2: KUBOTA KHD 80W-90 API GL-5 / MIL.L.2105D ( Its specifically for gear and axles

Grease : EP2 Kubota grease

my questions are:

1: what do you think ?
2: what do you think about that grease, is it good for all around gear bearings and PTO ?

3: tell me if i got this right - the transmissions case is connected to the rear differential and the hydraulic 3 point and the PTO ?
i mean the back wheels gear cases and the hydraulic system and the transmission case are all together ? and they all use the same trans\hydraulic fluid?


Thank you guys i hope its not to heavy on you

 

[85Hokie]

motor oil : Kubota power engine 15w - 40 \10w 40 oil ACEA E7 - API CI-4/CH-4/SL
i think the 15w40 is better for Portugal (its not cold here)

ID GO WITH THE 15W40

transmission\hydraulic : Kubota UTD API GL-4 OR SUPER UTD API GL-4- (EXTREAM PREUSSURE for COLDER TEMP)

SUPER UDT

front axles and front gear case oil :
2 OPTIONS

1: UTD \UDT SUPER
2: KUBOTA KHD 80W-90 API GL-5 / MIL.L.2105D ( Its specifically for gear and axles

80W90

Grease : EP2 Kubota grease

FINE ON THE GREASE


my questions are:


the transmissions case is connected to the rear differential and the hydraulic 3 point and the PTO ?
i mean the back wheels gear cases and the hydraulic system and the transmission case are all together ? and they all use the same trans\hydraulic fluid?

YOU ARE CORRECT

 

[Henro]

Aside from the paralysis of analysis...

As far as front axles goes, it SEEMS like a thicker oil to the touch would be less likely to leak out if there was a minor point of leakage...

Am I missing something?

Always trying to learn...

EDit: after 20 years I better remember to check the UDT level in my front axles this spring...I do check it occasionally...just keep forgetting when...so probably more than enough...

 

[marklmark]

motor oil : Kubota power engine 15w - 40 \10w 40 oil ACEA E7 - API CI-4/CH-4/SL
i think the 15w40 is better for Portugal (its not cold here)

ID GO WITH THE 15W40

transmission\hydraulic : Kubota UTD API GL-4 OR SUPER UTD API GL-4- (EXTREAM PREUSSURE for COLDER TEMP)

SUPER UDT

front axles and front gear case oil :
2 OPTIONS

1: UTD \UDT SUPER
2: KUBOTA KHD 80W-90 API GL-5 / MIL.L.2105D ( Its specifically for gear and axles

80W90

Grease : EP2 Kubota grease

FINE ON THE GREASE


my questions are:


the transmissions case is connected to the rear differential and the hydraulic 3 point and the PTO ?
i mean the back wheels gear cases and the hydraulic system and the transmission case are all together ? and they all use the same trans\hydraulic fluid?

YOU ARE CORRECT

thank you !