Not Good ....Cracks...Help Please
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Welcome to OTT- sorry that it is a problem that brought you here, but hopefully it can be a long stay.
Some photos of the cracks would help, but my first inclination would be that you will need to replace the rear end- cracks like you are describing are difficult or impossible to repair satisfactorily, especially depending on what has caused them.
Some photos of the cracks would help, but my first inclination would be that you will need to replace the rear end- cracks like you are describing are difficult or impossible to repair satisfactorily, especially depending on what has caused them.
I second the request for pics.
Would also be helpful to know what you've been lifting or using off the back end.
Also, welcome to the site!
Steve
Would also be helpful to know what you've been lifting or using off the back end.
Also, welcome to the site!
Steve
Thanks for the welcome........ i bought the 2001-L3010-4x4-hydro/w Loader tractor used last year in upstate NY..I got it for a decent price..concidering what was local--on Ebay-an Tractor House......i have only used 6ft blade off the back to drag my driveway a couple times last year....I dont know what previous owner had on it..he was a home builder.....Pics comin....Thanks..
Diff housing is only $1310.00 plus labor! Cheap! LOLThanks for the welcome........ i bought the 2001-L3010-4x4-hydro/w Loader tractor used last year in upstate NY..I got it for a decent price..concidering what was local--on Ebay-an Tractor House......i have only used 6ft blade off the back to drag my driveway a couple times last year....I dont know what previous owner had on it..he was a home builder.....Pics comin....Thanks..
Hi pictures would be great, in the past we used to weld diff. housings onhighway trucks all the time. The crack has to be v'd out, the problem is going to be to clean the area and remove the oil a little heat will do that. We used a mild steel rod, and also if you have room you might consider putting a gusset in the area. If your not a good welder I wouldn't attempt doing this because if it still leaks it's a lot harder to repair. Hope this helps Barry.
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Makes me wonder if that thing had a 3 point backhoe on it at some point and they were using the backhoe to lift the rear end of the tractor to move it around... That's about the only thing I can think of that would force the upper part of the housing to want to peel upward enough to crack the cast iron like that.
Almost looks like the bolts were severely over tightened or put under extreme stress from the backhoe scenario...
Both pieces can be welded by someone who knows what they're doing, however it would be best to disassemble it so it can be preheated to achieve the best job. This is NOT a job for an amateur in their garage! Best to take it to either big welding or machine shop (or marine repair facility) that specializes in cast iron repair work. It would pay dividends for a repair like this.
Bummer!
Steve
Almost looks like the bolts were severely over tightened or put under extreme stress from the backhoe scenario...
Both pieces can be welded by someone who knows what they're doing, however it would be best to disassemble it so it can be preheated to achieve the best job. This is NOT a job for an amateur in their garage! Best to take it to either big welding or machine shop (or marine repair facility) that specializes in cast iron repair work. It would pay dividends for a repair like this.
Bummer!
Steve
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Ditto what Apogee said. Something too heavy has been attached to the top link, probably repeatedly. The cracks in the top housing probably stop at the bolt hole radius as it would normally stop propagation of the crack. The bottom housing though????
Even welded it will probably not be as strong in tension as the original casting. Some additional reinforcing bracket to take some of the load might be a good idea. Specialty rods for cast are much better than they used to be, but still need some experience to use correctly.
It can not be welded with a mild steel rod as was suggested earlier. The Item compared to was an over the road differential, those are normally cast steel not cast iron like your case (easy to mix up, can look a lot alike).
To do it right you'll at least have to take the top case unit off.
Good luck!
Even welded it will probably not be as strong in tension as the original casting. Some additional reinforcing bracket to take some of the load might be a good idea. Specialty rods for cast are much better than they used to be, but still need some experience to use correctly.
It can not be welded with a mild steel rod as was suggested earlier. The Item compared to was an over the road differential, those are normally cast steel not cast iron like your case (easy to mix up, can look a lot alike).
To do it right you'll at least have to take the top case unit off.
Good luck!