Not another B vs. L Thread

[twentybelow]

Thanks for the replies, folks! Barring unforeseen circumstances, I hope to strike a deal on a machine in the next week or so.

I'm currently leaning toward the L2501. ToyFarm went with the 2650 for its lighter weight and smaller footprint. From what I've read here and elsewhere, more weight is an advantage for backhoe and loader work. According to spec sheets, the L is almost a thousand pounds heavier than the B with base tractor weights of 2623 and 1632 pounds respectively. That's 60% more bulk with basically the same horsepower engine. I guess that means the L would lose in any comparisons of fuel economy or quarter-mile dragstrip times, but hopefully would translate into more stability and effectiveness while digging out tree stumps and moving gravel around. The additional weight will probably be a negative while mowing, in terms of soil compaction, and as others have pointed out, that might end up being where most of the hours are logged, so definitely a compromise. Don't know why, but I believe all the in-stock package-deal machines come with R1 ag tires. I'll see if the dealer will swap them out for the R4's and at what cost. My thinking is that those tires will be gentler on the turf while dragging a cutter around the pasture.

Again, I appreciate any feedback you guys can offer, including corrections if my thinking is wrong on any of the above.

 

[Tunaslayer]

I would classify R4 tires as turf tires that are more puncture resistant. They are not great for traction in mud, or
snow, but they are not terrible either. I like mine, but I also do not have clay and mud to deal with. My tires are loaded with rimguard, and in 2wd, I can drive over my lawn with minimal impact. If you have a "path" you frequently use, it will get really packed, but if you alternate mowing patterns, I think it would be fine. Anything that mows 6' at a time with a finish mower is gonna have some weight, so it's all a trade off. I am considering a 72" rear finish once my yard is done.


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[twentybelow]

Thanks for the advice Tunaslayer. I went ahead and ordered the L2501 in a standard package deal plus the backhoe. Said they'd deliver it in about 2 weeks... we'll see how that goes. Also having them put on R4's and cruise control. I'm anxious to see what kind of job the Woods RC5 cutter will do mowing my pasture... Hoping to get by without having to buy a finish mower or a separate machine. My old Bolens mower is on its last leg... too much brushhogging over the years.

I'm thinking I might add a 3 pt quickhitch if it won't interfere with the subframe of the BH77. Any thoughts on that?

 

[eng1886trk]

Thanks for the advice Tunaslayer. I went ahead and ordered the L2501 in a standard package deal plus the backhoe. Said they'd deliver it in about 2 weeks... we'll see how that goes. Also having them put on R4's and cruise control. I'm anxious to see what kind of job the Woods RC5 cutter will do mowing my pasture... Hoping to get by without having to buy a finish mower or a separate machine. My old Bolens mower is on its last leg... too much brushhogging over the years.

I'm thinking I might add a 3 pt quickhitch if it won't interfere with the subframe of the BH77. Any thoughts on that?

The quick hitch is a good investment especially if you plan to add multiple 3 point attachments to your collection. It wont interfere with the subframe, but you must remember that when you have the backhoe on, all the linkage and 3 point arms are removed in order for the backhoe to be mounted. When you remove the backhoe, you must reinstall all the arms and linkage.

 

[Tunaslayer]

Yep, 3 point iron has to come off for the backhoe to go on, so no interference there. Make sure you 3 point gear fits. Mine was the wrong stuff from a B2650. It about a 5 minute job once you find the right tools for the job. I use a pneumatic ratchet. The cruise control is slick for trenching. You can nudge the tractor forward from the backhoe seat. If you plan on using the backhoe to move the tractor, remember to put it in neutral. I don't recommend this tho, as the tractor can roll away with you on the backhoe seat. Speaking from experience.. it is honestly easier to leave it in gear with the trans as a "brake" and use the cruise control to crab around. You are gonna love it, congrats!


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[Mike.O]

Yep, 3 point iron has to come off for the backhoe to go on, so no interference there. Make sure you 3 point gear fits. Mine was the wrong stuff from a B2650. It about a 5 minute job once you find the right tools for the job. I use a pneumatic ratchet. The cruise control is slick for trenching. You can nudge the tractor forward from the backhoe seat. If you plan on using the backhoe to move the tractor, remember to put it in neutral. I don't recommend this tho, as the tractor can roll away with you on the backhoe seat. Speaking from experience.. it is honestly easier to leave it in gear with the trans as a "brake" and use the cruise control to crab around. You are gonna love it, congrats!


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Could you elaborate on using the cruise control to crab around while on the backhoe?

 

[Tunaslayer]

You can reach the cruise control lever from the backhoe seat. As long as you are going in a straight line, it is possible to drive forward without changing seats.


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