No lift power at 3pt

Brody

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Kubota MX5000
May 12, 2023
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I have a 2000(ish) MX5000 2wd Kubota & I recently had to change out the control valve. After the swap, the 3pt has no power/lift strength at all. When the RPMs are maxed, it'll slowly raise, but won't lift any weight/load. Loader runs fines, power steering is good, & driving is good. I've been told too much fluid may have drained out (it took me about a week to do the swap due my schedule & weather) & that air may have gotten in over the piston. It was recommended to use the bleeder valve to purge the air out of the chamber... problem is, I'm not sure where the bleeder is or if this tractor even has one. I'm also not even sure this is the problem, although it seems rational to me. Any help or advice y'all can offer would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post!
 

DustyRusty

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I had a similar problem and it was the valve itself that was wrong. Finally got the correct valve correctly plumbed and no more problems. Not all valves are created equally, and they don't all work the same.
 
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Brody

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Kubota MX5000
May 12, 2023
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Texas
I had a similar problem and it was the valve itself that was wrong. Finally got the correct valve correctly plumbed and no more problems. Not all valves are created equally, and they don't all work the same.
The new control valve I used wasn't an exact replacement, but both are 2 spool 11gpm units. I matched hose positions exactly (well, minus my bucket roll is backwards now, but supply & return are correct)
 

PoTreeBoy

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The new control valve I used wasn't an exact replacement, but both are 2 spool 11gpm units. I matched hose positions exactly (well, minus my bucket roll is backwards now, but supply & return are correct)
So, we're talking the loader control valve, not a 3ph control valve? Or a valve for rear remotes? Did you buy and install a power beyond sleeve/fitting with the new valve? We need details.
 
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Brody

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Kubota MX5000
May 12, 2023
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So, we're talking the loader control valve, not a 3ph control valve? Or a valve for rear remotes? Did you buy and install a power beyond sleeve/fitting with the new valve? We need details.
Yes, loader control valve. No rear remotes & no power beyond sleeve (not sure what that is). I simply swapped the old loader controller for the new. Haven't messed with anything else. I'm somewhat mechanical, but tractors & hydraulics are outside my wheel house.
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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I would look at the plumbing and make sure it is correct.

I assume the FEL valve is what you replaced but confirm that please.

I think you need to be sure you have a power beyond sleeve and that the outlet of power beyond is then routed to the three point inlet port. Often the tank return and power beyond get mixed up.

And if you have any other valves involved in the loop please explain more about how your tractor is set up.
 
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Brody

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Kubota MX5000
May 12, 2023
8
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Texas
I would look at the plumbing and make sure it is correct.

I assume the FEL valve is what you replaced but confirm that please.

I think you need to be sure you have a power beyond sleeve and that the outlet of power beyond is then routed to the three point inlet port. Often the tank return and power beyond get mixed up.

And if you have any other valves involved in the loop please explain more about how your tractor is set up.
Yes, FEL replaced. No other valves, only the front loader. I looked up a power beyond valve & I did not install anything like that. I also do not recall one being on the old valve. It's a "Koyker" style valve if that helps any. Aside from getting the bucket roll lines switched, everything went on exactly as it came off.
 

eserv

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BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
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I have a 2000(ish) MX5000 2wd Kubota & I recently had to change out the control valve. After the swap, the 3pt has no power/lift strength at all. When the RPMs are maxed, it'll slowly raise, but won't lift any weight/load. Loader runs fines, power steering is good, & driving is good. I've been told too much fluid may have drained out (it took me about a week to do the swap due my schedule & weather) & that air may have gotten in over the piston. It was recommended to use the bleeder valve to purge the air out of the chamber... problem is, I'm not sure where the bleeder is or if this tractor even has one. I'm also not even sure this is the problem, although it seems rational to me. Any help or advice y'all can offer would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post!
The Power beyond and tank lines are reversed.
 
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Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
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Please make one more post and then you can post pictures.

I will probably have to let some of the other people that are better at hydraulics help you but if everything was fine before you replaced the valve and now it doesn’t work then it make logical sense that something is wrong at the valve.

Do you still have the old valve? Can you compare the marks on the ports that should be letters. There may also be model numbers and brand names that can help identify them.
 
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TheOldHokie

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I have a 2000(ish) MX5000 2wd Kubota & I recently had to change out the control valve. After the swap, the 3pt has no power/lift strength at all. When the RPMs are maxed, it'll slowly raise, but won't lift any weight/load. Loader runs fines, power steering is good, & driving is good. I've been told too much fluid may have drained out (it took me about a week to do the swap due my schedule & weather) & that air may have gotten in over the piston. It was recommended to use the bleeder valve to purge the air out of the chamber... problem is, I'm not sure where the bleeder is or if this tractor even has one. I'm also not even sure this is the problem, although it seems rational to me. Any help or advice y'all can offer would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post!
What is the make and model of the new valve?

Dan
 
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TheOldHokie

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7 total. 4 to the loader, 3 to the tractor. I'll grab some pics when I get home
OK - 3 to the tractor is the correct number of hoses but you also need the power beyond sleeve in the N port. Without that sleeve the N and T ports are interconnected and you do not have a high pressure carry over for the 3pt. No high pressure carry over = no lift.

Dan
 
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PoTreeBoy

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It's a Koyker 100-200 series valve, made by Hydraulic Masters.
I see that picture on eBay. There's no indication that a power beyond sleeve is included

How many total hoses are on your valve, 6 or 7? Probably 7. If so, you'll need a power beyond sleeve to fit that particular valve - shouldn't be more than $20ish.

I'll edit this post to add a couple of diagrams in a few minutes. The important point of these open center systems is that the fluid flows in an open series circuit through all the valves until diverted to a cylinder. In your case, it runs from the pump to the loader valve to the 3ph. The extra connection on the loader valve lets the relief valve discharge back to the sump unobstructed.

Here's what you need:
koyker-power-beyond-hydraulic-valve-673010.png

Here's a general diagram of what you're trying to accomplish:
Screenshot_20230513-121205-561.png
 
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TheOldHokie

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Here is the valve, the stamps, the hose arrangements (numbered). From y'alls info it sounds like I've got shit plumped incorrectly, but take a look at the pics & see what I've done wrong/right.
Hoses 1 and 2 are both connected to the tank (T) port. Hose 1 should be connected to the N port but only AFTER you install the optional power beyond sleeve. I also question your choice of fittings. Those ports are usually SAE not NPT. The N port and power beyond sleeve are DEFINITELY not NPT.

Dan
 
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Brody

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Kubota MX5000
May 12, 2023
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Texas
Hoses 1 and 2 are both connected to the tank (T) port. Hose 1 should be connected to the N port but only AFTER you install the optional power beyond sleeve. I also question your choice of fittings. Those ports are usually SAE not NPT. The N port and power beyond sleeve are DEFINITELY not NPT.

Dan
I had to adapt the 1/2 pipe threads in the valve to the 1/2 JIC threads of the hoses. Only way I could get it work. Again, hydraulics/plumbing are not my strong suit & I honestly can't afford to send it to a shop.
So, if I put hose 1 in the other port with a power beyond sleeve, it should work? What about line 3? I now see there's a P marking on the top port, so do I move line 3 to it also?
 

TheOldHokie

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I had to adapt the 1/2 pipe threads in the valve to the 1/2 JIC threads of the hoses. Only way I could get it work. Again, hydraulics/plumbing are not my strong suit & I honestly can't afford to send it to a shop.
So, if I put hose 1 in the other port with a power beyond sleeve, it should work? What about line 3? I now see there's a P marking on the top port, so do I move line 3 to it also?⁹
Once again - I do not think the ports in the valve are NPT. That would be an unusual option for a Badenost valve. Ilets and outlets are usually SAE 10 or 1/2" BSPP. I am POSITIVE the N port is not NPT. Likewise the work ports are either SAE-8 or 3/8" BSPP.

There are two inlet ports on the left side of the valve - one on the top and one on the side. You can use which ever one you like.

There are two tank ports on the right side of the valve - one on top and one on the side. You can use which ever on you like. You can even use both if you ever need a tank return for another valve

There is one power beyond port on the right side of the valve. It is marked N and is connected to the open center and both tank passages in the valve. Installing the power beyond sleeve connects it to the open center for high pressure carry over and also isolates it from the tank ports.

Dan
 
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