Battery was low, glow plugs lights worked but it just clicked when trying to start. I looked at terminals and replaced the positive cable end ( I did hit frame and got small spark) because of corrosion. When it looked to have a good charge I turned ignition key, glow plug lights came on, turned the ignition switch, then nothing, went dark. I jumped the negative, to see if I might have a bad ground, but nothing. I don't know where to start.
No Ignition old L355SS
- Thread starter David-in-OK
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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Make 100% sure it's in neutral, then jump the solenoid at the starter to see if it's an solenoid input or battery issue.
You jump the small solenoid terminal to the large battery terminal with the positive cable on it.
You jump the small solenoid terminal to the large battery terminal with the positive cable on it.
The batteries got a full charge. When I turn the key to on, the glow plugs indicator lights don't come on. What should I jump? On the picture.
Whatever this unit is, I'm not sure if it is the solenoid. Looks like it has a broken piece on the bottom left. The terminal on the right side has a wire hanging and always has, go's nowhere just hangs off. I don't have a decent manual or parts catalog to tell what is what.
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Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
It looks like a separate solenoid had been installed. It may be there to bypass a solenoid on the starter or to provide better power to the solenoid on the starter.
If you can figure out where all the wires are routed to and draw a simple schematic and post here.
The broken off piece is definitely a problem so you may just want to get another new solenoid and replace what is there, but I like to know how something is wired before replacement parts are installed.
If you can figure out where all the wires are routed to and draw a simple schematic and post here.
The broken off piece is definitely a problem so you may just want to get another new solenoid and replace what is there, but I like to know how something is wired before replacement parts are installed.
The wiring is, to put it politely, a mess.
The part with the broken piece is a solenoid you would find on older Ford vehicles.
The solenoid NIW was referring to is part of the actual starter but it is hard to see in your photo.
Take a wide photo so more useful comments can be provided.
If you want reliability you need to replace the complete positive cable and not just put an end on it.
The end of the ground cable where it attaches to the engine block needs to be removed, polished and put back together.
To do any trouble shooting you need to get or have a 12 volt test light.
Dave
Here are some pics, wiring is a mess, that how I got it. Its always started, good motor. no lights at all and lots of truncated wires.
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I have posts on bottom and side of starter. And yes wiring is a mess, its how I got it.
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Were does the wire I have marked with a yellow line go?
When you turn the key to START does the wire I marked with a blue line suddenly have power?
Dave
When you turn the key to START does the wire I marked with a blue line suddenly have power?
Dave
The blue wire does not power on when I switch on the ignition. Nothing happens. The one you have yellow, goes up under dash, I think to ignition, but I haven't pulled the panel.
Not when you turn the ignition on but when you turn key to start..
If you use a screw driver to jump the wire I marked with a yellow line to the battery cable terminal on the starter does the engine crank?
Remember, doing this requires caution as the tractor can run over you or run-a-way..
I see what looks like a fusible link near the starter. The two red lines lead to a loop of wire called the fusible link. this is the power supply for all functions on the tractor including glow plugs and starting.
Dave
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Not sure which yellow you mean to jump. At the onset of all this it sure did seem like a fuse went when I was trying to start it. The battery was charged, glow indicators were on and when I turned the ignition to start it all went black.
I put a voltmeter on The wire that comes from the battery to the starter. I have nothing at the starter. Batteries putting out 10.6v to ground.
your battery is no good but you know that.
I repeat what I said earlier:
If you want reliability you need to replace the complete positive cable and not just put an end on it.
The end of the ground cable where it attaches to the engine block needs to be removed, polished and put back together.
Dave
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
The separate solenoid is broken and you may just want to buy another and replace it while you’re replacing the battery. Looking at it more it appears to be used as a relay for the starter but I really don’t understand if it actually does anything with that loose wire on the right.
Do you know if it was broken before you had the troubles? If it was I would just ignore it I think.
Do you know if it was broken before you had the troubles? If it was I would just ignore it I think.
I think the second solenoid was a hack to get more voltage to the starter, which I've learned was a problem with an older L series like mine. Not sure if had been broken or not. First thing I will do is get power to the starter. I cleaned and used terminal protector on my ground at the frame this spring. Corrosion has been my common problem with truck, mower and tractor.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
The picture in post #3 has a black wire with a white stripe. If my memory is good that wire goes to the clutch safety switch and the the starter switch and is the “trigger” wire to the normal solenoid on the starter. I have no idea how it would have started without the second solenoid working. Perhaps they bypassed the whole safety circuit with other wiring.
The actual working wiring is quite simple and I would recommend to replace it if you have the ability. I can provide you with a schematic from my L185 that may be very similar. I may have one for the L355 in the work shop manual.
The actual working wiring is quite simple and I would recommend to replace it if you have the ability. I can provide you with a schematic from my L185 that may be very similar. I may have one for the L355 in the work shop manual.
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It turned out to be a poor connection on my positive terminal. I know my battery is shot but I keep nursing it along till next year. So it started last night.