New to me T1760

josephjhaney

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jan 21, 2025
13
1
3
Pennsylvania
So I have a new to me T1760 with the Kawi water cooled motor, and I know it needs the carb cleaned, but the guy who sold it to me fired it up on starting fluid to show me it does run. My current issue is if I charge the battery fully (only 230 CCA's) it will turn over, and it turns over fast, but if I stop and then try again, it just clicks. Now I have already ordered a new battery, because 230CCA's seems low to me, so to be safe I have a 400CCA LiOn battery coming tomorrow, but I'm thinking I might need a solenoid as well. Your thoughts?

Joe
 

lmichael

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota G2160
Apr 23, 2021
718
344
63
Rockford IL area
Likely just needs a "helper" relay. Lots of issues showing that "fix". My own 2160 was a royal PIA. Would do the same. Kubota runs wiring all over the joint, through little "micro" switches that IMO should not be used on outdoor equipment. I was going crazy tracing wires, connections and so on.
Added a simple "helper" relay issues all solved. FWIW I would not use that LiOn battery. Odds are the charging system is not compatible, and frankly as a starting battery they're more trouble and expense than they're worth
 

josephjhaney

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jan 21, 2025
13
1
3
Pennsylvania
Likely just needs a "helper" relay. Lots of issues showing that "fix". My own 2160 was a royal PIA. Would do the same. Kubota runs wiring all over the joint, through little "micro" switches that IMO should not be used on outdoor equipment. I was going crazy tracing wires, connections and so on.
Added a simple "helper" relay issues all solved. FWIW I would not use that LiOn battery. Odds are the charging system is not compatible, and frankly as a starting battery they're more trouble and expense than they're worth
I'm down with trying that, do you have a link to how to go about doing that?

Joe
 

lmichael

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota G2160
Apr 23, 2021
718
344
63
Rockford IL area
I'm down with trying that, do you have a link to how to go about doing that?

Joe
Sorry no. Since I've never seen a machine like yours. I simply used the voltage currently going to the solenoid, to fire an 8V-20V relay (these are what I bought) Amazon.com: EPAuto 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V, 5-PIN SPDT Bosch Style - 5 Pack : Automotive
Then that switched to full 12V battery voltage to the solenoid which allows it to fully engage rather than just click
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,473
2,164
113
Mid, South, USA
I don't know that I'd have used lithium battery, rather just a standard 350cca lead-acid battery. Cheaper, works, and no chance of the li-ion battery damaging the regulator and/or stator. Extreme temps also can severely degrade the li-ion battery's performance.

If you're dead set on the lithium battery, you may have to figure out how to find/make a regulator work that will charge the battery at the correct voltage that they want. The factory regulator only charges 13.3-13.5v from what I remember of them. Some Li-ion battery companies want up close to 15v to charge them and they are pretty sensitive to that from what I'm seeing in the powersports world. I've done two regulators today alone on Polaris stuff, both had lithium batteries. I inquired about it directly from Polaris and they don't approve of li-ion battery use on anything other than what came with them from the factory which is the Ranger EV Li-ion and the Ranger Kinetic at this time. Those are the only two.

On 1760's I'd reccomend replacing the fuel pump. New pumps have a nipple on the bottom that you put a hose on, and run the hose down the side of the frame. The original pumps had a weep hole only and if/when the pump fails and leaks fuel out of the weep hole, it leaks directly on top of the muffler and you know what that leads to. A completely burnt mower, and shed, or whatever else is around it. Kubota and Kawasaki had a bulletin out about this a number of years ago.

if/when you pull the carb for cleaning, you also will need to remove the linkage plate from the block in order to get the linkage to come off of the carb. That or bend the linkages. Ain't no other way. When you put the linkage plate back on, the bolt holes are slotted which gives you the ability to adjust the fast idle RPM; which should be around 3450 RPM +/- 50. Additionally sometimes the little "horn" (elbow) that connects the carb to the air cleaner housing, there are two bolts that hold it to the flywheel housing. The nuts are captive in the flywheel housing and the nuts will sometimes spin inside the housing. If that happens you may have to replace the housing and the elbow after you cut the bolts off, and that housing is no longer available. So be careful with it. If you need parts, look at John Deere...the LX188 used the same engine. Great engine if taken care of. 3 major issues with them (or potential major issues), one the carb elbow bolts, two, plastic camshaft gear that sometimes knocks the teef off (and just stops running but you have to totally remove the engine to access the cam), and water pumps that will sometimes fail and fill the crankcase with coolant, then overheat. Overheating, lack of oil, and neglected air filters are the nemesis of these engines. Keep up with the maintenance and repairs, and they'll last nearly forever. I called them the 300 six of lawn mower engines. DId not make a lot of power but they'd run forever if you keep oil and coolant and air filter maintained. Oh and do a valve adjustment once in a while too.
 

josephjhaney

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jan 21, 2025
13
1
3
Pennsylvania
I don't know that I'd have used lithium battery, rather just a standard 350cca lead-acid battery. Cheaper, works, and no chance of the li-ion battery damaging the regulator and/or stator. Extreme temps also can severely degrade the li-ion battery's performance.

If you're dead set on the lithium battery, you may have to figure out how to find/make a regulator work that will charge the battery at the correct voltage that they want. The factory regulator only charges 13.3-13.5v from what I remember of them. Some Li-ion battery companies want up close to 15v to charge them and they are pretty sensitive to that from what I'm seeing in the powersports world. I've done two regulators today alone on Polaris stuff, both had lithium batteries. I inquired about it directly from Polaris and they don't approve of li-ion battery use on anything other than what came with them from the factory which is the Ranger EV Li-ion and the Ranger Kinetic at this time. Those are the only two.

On 1760's I'd reccomend replacing the fuel pump. New pumps have a nipple on the bottom that you put a hose on, and run the hose down the side of the frame. The original pumps had a weep hole only and if/when the pump fails and leaks fuel out of the weep hole, it leaks directly on top of the muffler and you know what that leads to. A completely burnt mower, and shed, or whatever else is around it. Kubota and Kawasaki had a bulletin out about this a number of years ago.

if/when you pull the carb for cleaning, you also will need to remove the linkage plate from the block in order to get the linkage to come off of the carb. That or bend the linkages. Ain't no other way. When you put the linkage plate back on, the bolt holes are slotted which gives you the ability to adjust the fast idle RPM; which should be around 3450 RPM +/- 50. Additionally sometimes the little "horn" (elbow) that connects the carb to the air cleaner housing, there are two bolts that hold it to the flywheel housing. The nuts are captive in the flywheel housing and the nuts will sometimes spin inside the housing. If that happens you may have to replace the housing and the elbow after you cut the bolts off, and that housing is no longer available. So be careful with it. If you need parts, look at John Deere...the LX188 used the same engine. Great engine if taken care of. 3 major issues with them (or potential major issues), one the carb elbow bolts, two, plastic camshaft gear that sometimes knocks the teef off (and just stops running but you have to totally remove the engine to access the cam), and water pumps that will sometimes fail and fill the crankcase with coolant, then overheat. Overheating, lack of oil, and neglected air filters are the nemesis of these engines. Keep up with the maintenance and repairs, and they'll last nearly forever. I called them the 300 six of lawn mower engines. DId not make a lot of power but they'd run forever if you keep oil and coolant and air filter maintained. Oh and do a valve adjustment once in a while too.
I was not aware of those potential issues with the LiON battery, I did drop it in and the thing starts every time now, I did have to remove that linkage plate, and I put a new el cheapo carb in and have the original on the bench, she fired right up and tuns well now, seems to be nearly full wide open or choke, or off, but I'll look at that linkage again and see if I need to adjust something a bit. At least it's running now. You said something about a lithium battery messing up a regulator, I'm wondering if that's what happened to my Craftsman, I put a lithium battery in it and my power steering has a voltage protection circuit that has fried twice now, I thought it was a coincidence but I might have to swap that back out along with replacing that regulator before I sell that machine.


Joe
 

josephjhaney

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jan 21, 2025
13
1
3
Pennsylvania
I was not aware of those potential issues with the LiON battery, I did drop it in and the thing starts every time now, I did have to remove that linkage plate, and I put a new el cheapo carb in and have the original on the bench, she fired right up and tuns well now, seems to be nearly full wide open or choke, or off, but I'll look at that linkage again and see if I need to adjust something a bit. At least it's running now. You said something about a lithium battery messing up a regulator, I'm wondering if that's what happened to my Craftsman, I put a lithium battery in it and my power steering has a voltage protection circuit that has fried twice now, I thought it was a coincidence but I might have to swap that back out along with replacing that regulator before I sell that machine.


Joe
Well, just blew a 15a fuse with it running for about 5 min, so a leas acid battery it is. Live and learn, next to get under and see why the mower isn't spinning.

Joe
 

josephjhaney

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jan 21, 2025
13
1
3
Pennsylvania
Yeah, just blew another fuse, after replacing the battery with a standard, I think the solenoid went, it had been intermittently starting and sometimes clicking, now it's not clicking, just the lights on the dash dim when I turn the key to start. New Starter on the way. Well, at least I'm replacing a bunch of stuff early.

Joe