New B6000 owner...what's this extra lever?

[coachgeo]

Good info, guys...thank you!

Cheers,
Dave

PS.... some of this info has always been right under your nose in the ULTIMATE Sticky on top of each forum. Where to get a Manual is one of them which would have answered several of the other questions.

Look forward to pics of your progress in getting her tip top shape.

 

[Dave_eng]

Another question: Oil pressure light on my B6000 doesn't work. I've ordered a new oil pressure switch, and I'll just replace the (presumably) light bulb with an LED. Here's the question: Can I connect an actual oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure switch instead? If it's got enough output to power a 12v light bulb, I'd suspect it may be able to power an actual gauge too. Anyone know this answer?

Cheers!
Dave

On some but not all older Kubota tractors, owners have had grief when installing LED bulbs. Some tractors use Alternating current from the dynamo to power the lights. One lead from the dynamo is rectified to charge the battery.

The D in LED stand for diode. This is an electronic one way valve.

You would need to determine if the circuit you would connect your new oil pressure gauge into is a direct current one and not an alternating current one.

I am not certain I understand "Can I connect an actual oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure switch instead? " An oil pressure gauge requires something at the engine end that is much more than an on-off switch.

Dave M7040

 

[davesisk]

...
I am not certain I understand "Can I connect an actual oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure switch instead? " An oil pressure gauge requires something at the engine end that is much more than an on-off switch.

Dave M7040

Ah, you're right...sorry, I guess it's late. It actually is merely a switch...turns the light off after the pressure comes up (whereas a oil pressure sender constantly sends a signal).

Thanks for the LED thoughts. I wired up an LED light bar to the front and a single LED light to the back (wired to the battery through a switch with the add-on plastic insulation...still need to add a fusible link though), and I did notice that they almost seem to "flicker"...I'll bet you're right about the AC current from the dynamo.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[D2Cat]

Put a "T" at the sending unit and have both the light and the gauge.

 

[davesisk]

The set of bevel gears I ordered came...ahem...they are a bit smaller than I expected (LOL...like in about 2" diameter or so)...right idea, wrong implementation part.

I'm not finding another set of adequately large bevel gears at a good price...so, I ordered a pair of these, let me see what I can codge together in terms of a PTO reverser with these: http://www.agrisupply.com/gear/p/78811/

Cheers!
Dave

 

[Dave_eng]

The set of bevel gears I ordered came...ahem...they are a bit smaller than I expected (LOL...like in about 2" diameter or so)...right idea, wrong implementation part.

I'm not finding another set of adequately large bevel gears at a good price...so, I ordered a pair of these, let me see what I can codge together in terms of a PTO reverser with these: http://www.agrisupply.com/gear/p/78811/

Cheers!
Dave

I looked at the gear in the link. I hate to say this but it is not a bevel gear so reversing your pto with it is beyond my imagination. It is a simple spur gear with the teeth going radially out from the center of the gear at 90 degrees to the center line.

Dave

 

[davesisk]

I looked at the gear in the link. I hate to say this but it is not a bevel gear so reversing your pto with it is beyond my imagination. It is a simple spur gear with the teeth going radially out from the center of the gear at 90 degrees to the center line.

Dave

Yup...two of these in a case plus a few PTO adapters and bearings should do the trick. Looking at it from the rear of the tractor, if the PTO is spinning the top gear counter-clockwise, then the top gear will turn the bottom gear clockwise. This is how the Hub City PTO reversers were made...no? (Sorry, I kinda switched designs on ya...LOL.)

A picture is worth 1000 words (or so they say)...here's an animation of two 16 tooth gears. The top would be connected to the PTO shaft...bottom would have a PTO shaft mounted to it:
http://geargenerator.com/#150,150,5...,1,16,4,4,27,-90,0,0,16,4,4,27,-90,0,0,2,-506

Interestingly enough, this is also how hydraulic gear pumps are made...hmmm...

That said, I just noticed a problem with the two gears I ordered: On first glance, it *looks like* the internal sleeve is a 6T spline (which presumably would be the standard 1-3/8" 6T spline)...it's not, if you count them there are 8 splines...dang it! OK...this is still useable, just have to get the right 6T spline adapters. Let me get a look at these when they arrive...

Cheers!
Dave

 

[Dave_eng]

I am most impressed by your endless ingenuity!!!

If I could not throw you off course by pointing out the gears in your link were not bevel gears, let me put another factor before you.

Torque rating of your new gears. I know you said the gears have 16 teeth but no mention if they were steel or cast iron. Also no mention of the thickness or width of the gear.

The spec's for your tractor say 11 pto HP at 540 rpm.

To select a gear you need to know how much torque it has to transmit.

I used the "on line," calculator shown below to determine your rear pto is putting out 107 ft-lbs of torque. On the calculator result it talks about engine horsepower but you are only concerned with pto horsepower.

Next I went to a gear design program. I said your gear had 16 teeth, made of high quality steel and would be 1" wide or thick.

Next the program takes the gear parameters and determines the torque level that this gear will sustain reliably.

The important data for your application is "Load in inch lbs @ pitch line which is 581.4. Now this needs to be converted from inch pounds to foot pounds by dividing by 12

Now the torque number is 48 ft-lbs which is less than 1/2 that your pto puts out.

I want you to succeed not fail and you need to know what you are doing will not withstand the torque from the rear pto even with a gear 1" thick which your's is not based upon the photo.

If you are wondering why such a big challenge, it is transmitting the torque at 540 rpm's.

A 1,000 rpm pto speed would basically double the torque capacity of the gear.

Unfortunately, you don't have that pto speed.

Driving something off the front of your engine which runs at say 2,200 rpm makes a very big improvement for a gear's ability to transmit torque.

I know this is all very technical and not many would understand the intricate details. This is the manner which my engineering background has me approach a technical problem.

Please feel free to ask questions. I will do my best to answer them. I am not a power transmission specialist but rather a generalist. Power Transmission people make that aspect of a machine's design their life long career.

Dave M7040

 

[davesisk]

Dave_eng...good stuff, man! Thank you for the calcs (and yes, I understand the output...my degree is in engineering as well, just not mechanical).

So, the B6000 PTO (even though it turns the wrong way) has 3 speeds @ 2700 engine rpm's: 560, 840, and 1350. I could use the higher rpm's to reduce the torque seen at the PTO...hmmm. Or...I could use 2 of the same gear on each shaft (4 of these total) to double the face of each gear and thus double the torque rating. That said, I clearly do have some more "thinkin' thru" to do on this...so, keep any thoughts comin'.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[davesisk]

So...I sold the old B6000 yesterday. I had fixed several things on it...adjusted the brakes and got the parking brake working, adjusted the clutch so it disengages properly, added an LED light bar and rear work light, added a quick-hitch, trailer puller, and ripper implement....I had snagged a ROPS that didn't fit and was trying to figure out what to do with that, and still looking for the easiest way to get a finish mower on it. I posted it on Craigslist to see if I could get any takers (including noting that the PTO turns counter-clockwise...I like to be upfront about everything)...a fella gave me more than I had in it...took it and all of the stuff I had accumulated. LOL. Meanwhile, I had used it to move a shed, dig/grade the area beforehand, rip a trench for running power to the shed, tow a hayride over Halloween, and taught my lady friend how to drive an old gear-drive tractor. It's kinda like a reverse rental...I got paid to use it for some projects and have a little fun with it. I hope the new owner fairs as well with it as I did!

Now that I have a little better idea what I want, I'm looking for a model that is a bit newer, HST drive, power steering, already has a ROPS, has a loader, and already has a finish mower (although i'm unsure whether I'd prefer a RFM or MMM...I can see benefits and drawbacks of each). There are two candidates at pretty good prices a reasonable drive from me (one local)...a 2001 B7500 w/FEL and RFM, and a 2006 BX1850 w/FEL and MMM. I think I'm probably leaning toward the B7500...but I'll open a new thread for that discussion.

I really REALLY appreciate all the posts and advice you guys have given me as a newbie on OTT...thank you, and I'll try to pay that forward!

Cheers,
Dave

 

[Dave_eng]

So...I sold the old B6000 yesterday. I had fixed several things on it...adjusted the brakes and got the parking brake working, adjusted the clutch so it disengages properly, added an LED light bar and rear work light, added a quick-hitch, trailer puller, and ripper implement....I had snagged a ROPS that didn't fit and was trying to figure out what to do with that, and still looking for the easiest way to get a finish mower on it. I posted it on Craigslist to see if I could get any takers (including noting that the PTO turns counter-clockwise...I like to be upfront about everything)...a fella gave me more than I had in it...took it and all of the stuff I had accumulated. LOL. Meanwhile, I had used it to move a shed, dig/grade the area beforehand, rip a trench for running power to the shed, tow a hayride over Halloween, and taught my lady friend how to drive an old gear-drive tractor. It's kinda like a reverse rental...I got paid to use it for some projects and have a little fun with it. I hope the new owner fairs as well with it as I did!

Now that I have a little better idea what I want, I'm looking for a model that is a bit newer, HST drive, power steering, already has a ROPS, has a loader, and already has a finish mower (although i'm unsure whether I'd prefer a RFM or MMM...I can see benefits and drawbacks of each). There are two candidates at pretty good prices a reasonable drive from me (one local)...a 2001 B7500 w/FEL and RFM, and a 2006 BX1850 w/FEL and MMM. I think I'm probably leaning toward the B7500...but I'll open a new thread for that discussion.

I really REALLY appreciate all the posts and advice you guys have given me as a newbie on OTT...thank you, and I'll try to pay that forward!

Cheers,
Dave

Make a condition of the sale that the new owner needs to join the forum. I think some of us might like to see this "child" continue to grow.

Dave

 

[davesisk]

Make a condition of the sale that the new owner needs to join the forum. I think some of us might like to see this "child" continue to grow.

Dave

He was clear about not being a computer-savvy kinda guy (he'll get someone to print out the PDF manuals I emailed him, he had a coworker searching Craigslist for him, etc...LOL), so I kinda doubt you'll see him on this or any tractor forum. (I don't think he had much experience with equipment like this, so I gave him some pointers on not getting it greasy side up and otherwise keeping himself safe...I do hope those stuck.)

I can dig up the serial# and post it if anyone is interested in seeing if this little tractor surfaces again some time in the future. I do have to say this whole (albeit short) experience with a Kubota has left me with a good impression...consider me a Kubota fan now.

Actually, here's the serial# (as best I can make out the worn numbers): B6000-73168

Cheers,
The Other Dave

 

[Clementine21]

Ah, OK...I'll go find that thread then. I also just checked...mine has a 6-splined PTO shaft, not 10-splined. I'll check tommorrow and just confirm that the PTO does indeed turn counter-clockwise...who knows, I might be solving a problem I don't have (but I doubt it).

So, possibly another silly question...the rear stance with tires is a little narrower than the front. Front tire to tire from outer edge is about 40 inches wide. Rear tire to tire outer edge is around (didn't get exact measurement) 36 -
38 inches or so. (Rear tires are definitely a couple inches or so inside the loader frame and bucket, while front tires are a couple inches outside the loader frame and bucket.) It *looks like* I could flip the wheels around ("dish them out", as I believe it's called), making the rear stance around 42 inches or so wide (which I believe would be a good thing...wider will be more stable and possibly a little safer. Also, I added a quick hitch, and the hitch arms are within 1/2" of the tires now). Is there any reason I couldn't flip the rear wheels around to make the stance wider? Looks like the wheel actually sits on a ridge on the hub...I of course can't tell for sure if they would fit exactly right until I just attempt it (and I might need shorter wheel lugs, don't know yet). Thoughts anyone?

Cheers!
Dave

Probably already have an answer, but wheels can be flipped from side to side and also moved in and out on the axle. I ran as far outboard as possible with the hoe on, narrower for tilling.

Back in the 1980s, finding an spline adapter was pretty easy.

 

[Clementine21]

Another question: Oil pressure light on my B6000 doesn't work. I've ordered a new oil pressure switch, and I'll just replace the (presumably) light bulb with an LED. Here's the question: Can I connect an actual oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure switch instead? If it's got enough output to power a 12v light bulb, I'd suspect it may be able to power an actual gauge too. Anyone know this answer?

Cheers!
Dave

You probably have an answer already, but I used an oil PG like old Chevies had, an actual oil line off a tee at the pressure sender unit.