Hello all. I have a g2160 mower with the d782-e engine. Brother in law ran it hot and cracked the head so I decided to do a complete engine rebuild. The rebuild went well. Had to order a new head with valves and installed everything. The old head gasket was the fel-pro graphite type gasket. The new head gasket was a three layer metal type gasket. Put everything back together, checked the torque specs twice on the head bolts. Fired it up and immediately noticed the head gasket was leaking to the outside. Shut engine down and let it cool off. Checked the oil and it was full of water also. At this point I have pulled the head back off and ordered a new head gasket from Kubota. The new head was aftermarket but flatness checked good before installation. My question is have the torque specs changed since the gasket type changed. The new gasket from Kubota is also the three layered metal type. I will have to wait a few days to reinstall the head as I have had eye surgery yesterday and can not lift anything over 20 pounds for a week or so. Just wondering if anyone here has replaced their head gasket with the new type. Thanks in advance for your replies.
Needing advice g2160 engine rebuild
- Thread starter BSims66173
- Start date
that old type is an aftermarket gasket. I forget what brand, they are cheap. OE is a MLS gasket. I have reused them on my own stuff and have not had any failures to date. Probably start leaking the next time I start the engine now that I've said that.
Check the DECK for flatness (they can be off too). Everything has to be 100% clean. I like to use a piece of sandpaper and very lightly scuff the deck surface until the entire thing is shiny. Just scuff, you don't want to get crazy with it. Then clean the surface with brake cleaner until the white towel wipes clean (no black on the towel). Patience is required. A little bit of rust coloration isn't out of the ordinary from flash rust. Assemble immediately after cleaning the head AND block.
Lastly, replace the head bolts. A couple of torques and they get stretched, will bottom out in the blind holes, and you think you have them torqued (and they are) but they are now too long and don't properly clamp the head to the block; causing leakage.
Check the DECK for flatness (they can be off too). Everything has to be 100% clean. I like to use a piece of sandpaper and very lightly scuff the deck surface until the entire thing is shiny. Just scuff, you don't want to get crazy with it. Then clean the surface with brake cleaner until the white towel wipes clean (no black on the towel). Patience is required. A little bit of rust coloration isn't out of the ordinary from flash rust. Assemble immediately after cleaning the head AND block.
Lastly, replace the head bolts. A couple of torques and they get stretched, will bottom out in the blind holes, and you think you have them torqued (and they are) but they are now too long and don't properly clamp the head to the block; causing leakage.
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A lot of people don't know this, but the exhaust studs will leak too if you don't put thread sealer on them. 
I have used copper sealer on problematic head head gaskets in the past, could be an option if you have more problems.
I have used copper sealer on problematic head head gaskets in the past, could be an option if you have more problems.