Need longer driveshaft with quick hitch?
- Thread starter number9
- Start date
I may be wrong (it happens more often that I would like), but only some measuring will tell that. I would go to my local Harbor Freight and measure the thickness of the quick hitch- how much more it will push the implement back from the tractor- and then measure how much safe travel there is in the driveshafts, starting at the current position when installed on the tractor.
RBA50
Member
Equipment
B2320, LA304 loader (B1658 QA), B2789 snowblower, RCK54-29B MMM, HF quick hitch
The quick hitch will move the implement about 4-1/2" back. Depending on how much overlap you have on your driveshaft now, you may get away without a longer one. Check your manual to find the minimum recommended overlap.
gpreuss
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
When I went from my L185DT to my L3200, I found the 3PH arms were about 3" longer, and my tiller shaft was then too short. This link gets you to a PTO adaptor that extends the shaft about 4". It sure solved my problems! At $20, it is a darn sight less expensive than one or more drive shafts..
http://www.agrisupply.com/pto-adapter/p/11971/&sid=&eid=/
http://www.agrisupply.com/pto-adapter/p/11971/&sid=&eid=/
Last edited:
RBA50
Member
Equipment
B2320, LA304 loader (B1658 QA), B2789 snowblower, RCK54-29B MMM, HF quick hitch
Some people have reported problems with using those extenders. Not saying you shouldn't try it, if necessary, depending on how much you use the attachment. If it's only a small amount of time, probably no big deal. If it's all day every day, could be a problem. Reports are that they can cause problems with the tractor PTO bearings/shaft, due to added strain from moving the u-joint out. There is a small amount of play in the fit between each piece, which adds up to significant movement overall. If everything was running in straight line there wouldn't be much concern, but with the angles at the U-joints, there is a lot of "side" stress.
YMMV
YMMV
RBA50
Member
Equipment
B2320, LA304 loader (B1658 QA), B2789 snowblower, RCK54-29B MMM, HF quick hitch
Since you are asking about 2 different attachments, it made me wonder of you already have them, or are considering purchasing one or the other. Reason I ask is if you don't have them yet, or haven't cut the shafts, the shafts will probably be long enough, since most all LP attachments are Quick Hitch compatible. I know I could have used the shafts that came with my 3pt. snowblower if I hadn't shortened them before I got the Quick Hitch.
gpreuss
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
Number 9,
If you didn't already buy your Harbor Freight Quick Hitch, read the two attachments I am including. Some people who get the Harbor Freight Quick Hitch need to do major work on them to be able to use them.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/253644-bx25-harbor-freight-quick-hitch.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/252974-quick-hitch-problems.html
If you're handy with welding and machining equipment it may work out for you, but if you just want something to put on your tractor and use immediately you may want to look at a different brand. I have a Speeco Cat 1 Quick Hitch and it works just as it is, no modifications necessary.
To answer your original question, the Quick Hitch will move your implement back about 4 inches, so your drive shaft will need to be able to be longer by this amount. Your implement manual should tell you how much overlap you need to use the drive shaft safely. I have a Bush Hog rotary cutter, and the manual says 6" overlap minimum. I measured my drive shaft and it had about 6 inches overlap after I accounted for the 4 inch extension of the Quick Hitch. Hodge and RBA50 gave you the best advice. You need to measure to see if you can use your current drive shaft.
If you didn't already buy your Harbor Freight Quick Hitch, read the two attachments I am including. Some people who get the Harbor Freight Quick Hitch need to do major work on them to be able to use them.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/253644-bx25-harbor-freight-quick-hitch.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/252974-quick-hitch-problems.html
If you're handy with welding and machining equipment it may work out for you, but if you just want something to put on your tractor and use immediately you may want to look at a different brand. I have a Speeco Cat 1 Quick Hitch and it works just as it is, no modifications necessary.
To answer your original question, the Quick Hitch will move your implement back about 4 inches, so your drive shaft will need to be able to be longer by this amount. Your implement manual should tell you how much overlap you need to use the drive shaft safely. I have a Bush Hog rotary cutter, and the manual says 6" overlap minimum. I measured my drive shaft and it had about 6 inches overlap after I accounted for the 4 inch extension of the Quick Hitch. Hodge and RBA50 gave you the best advice. You need to measure to see if you can use your current drive shaft.
Last edited:
Quick Hitch.. It sounds so good, just back up to the implement , raise the 3ph and away we go.. That is the way it works "after" you spend a week of modifying every implement you have to "fit " the quick hitch. Your tractor has arms that swing in and out, the top link can move sidways and in and out. Once the qh,"quick hitch" is on, it's only adjustment is tilt. The problem is there is no standard for the diminsions for lower "lift" arms width. There is no standard for the lower pin to top pin higth. Measure all you implents, rotary mower, box blade, etc, they will all be different. Out of 5 implements I have, only 1 fit the qh I bought. I modified all the implements to fit the qh and now I can," hook up an go. TSC has "bushings" that slide over the lift arm and top link pins that will convert, "upsize" a cat 1 to a cat 2 size and even cat 1 to cat 3. My qh had the average width lift arm spaceing for a cat 1 but it had the pin slot size for a cat 2. One of my implements had cat 1 pin sizes but cat 0 spaceing. I had to make the spaceing wider to fit the qh. All the top hitch parts had to be reworked.
THANK YOU!!! For posting those links. I've read and searched about quick hitches and read about needing this or that but no detailed info or pics showing them. That is the best thread I've seen on the QH.
I actually picked up a QH from HF after work on Friday. I only have 2 implements at this point, LP RCR1260 and FDR1672. I fooled all evening getting the RC set up, then went to the FD and found it was no where close. After more reading more I finally ran across a thread where someone mentione the land Pride Floating Top Link, which the manual off LP's website says is needed for both my decks since they need to float. More searching turned dimensions of the links.
Armed with the info from those threads, I went to TSC yesterday with a list and got everything I needed to follow closely what Artisan did in his HF QH thread and also make my own copy of the floating top link from LP. Worked on that stuff all day yesterday but they both hook up sweet now. No adjustment needed to the top link or anything else for either.
Now, lol to my original question....I haven't cut the shafts on the decks. They are new and I've only used the FD once and the RC a few times and actually didn't know I was suposed to cut them down. I'm gonna measure them today and see how much overlap I have with each and if it is within LP's specs. I am hoping I'll be ok.
...
Well, I've all but determined that as it stands now I'm not gonna be able to run the rotary cutter deck with the QH. I just can't get the amount of flex I need with the QH. With the floating top links I made the deck has a little downward travel and moderate upward travel but not nearly enough.
Today I drilled a new set of 3/4" holes in between the factory holes on the deck top link. That helped a little both ways. Before, having the pin in the hole closest to the tractor allowed decent down travel of the deck but bound up during up travel. I rounded off the corners of the hook mount on the QH and also cut the ends of the deck top link back closer to the first hole and rounded it really good. This allowed more upward travel but the floating top link on the QH now comes down and bottoms out on the QH, and soon after that the deck top link binds up, limiting travel. It's usable, but not good enough.
I've got a few more ideas to try, but until then I think I'm gonna go back to running the RC deck with the 3pth, in that config the deck will travel up ward until its nearly perpendicular to the tractor, which is great for backing the deck up the side of a hill.
I'll take some pics and show what mods I've made and the travel they allow / limit.
...
Today I drilled a new set of 3/4" holes in between the factory holes on the deck top link. That helped a little both ways. Before, having the pin in the hole closest to the tractor allowed decent down travel of the deck but bound up during up travel. I rounded off the corners of the hook mount on the QH and also cut the ends of the deck top link back closer to the first hole and rounded it really good. This allowed more upward travel but the floating top link on the QH now comes down and bottoms out on the QH, and soon after that the deck top link binds up, limiting travel. It's usable, but not good enough.
I've got a few more ideas to try, but until then I think I'm gonna go back to running the RC deck with the 3pth, in that config the deck will travel up ward until its nearly perpendicular to the tractor, which is great for backing the deck up the side of a hill.
I'll take some pics and show what mods I've made and the travel they allow / limit.
...
I have been renting and borrowing a tiller to use with my B 7100, until I can afford to buy my own. I had to buy a quick hitch to space back the driveshaft to make it work. Prior to the quick hitch the driveshaft was 1.5 inches too long at its shortest point. That set back of 4 inches saved me hundreds of dollars that I don't have at this time.
Jay
Jay
Number 9,
Have you seen this:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...hitch-toplink-swinging-toplink-adapter-hf.jpg
It's made to adapt non quick hitch compatible equipment to work with your quick hitch. To use it you take off the hook on your quick hitch and use the adapter.
Check out posts 38 and 44 of this link, too:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/119074-my-harbor-freight-quick-hitch-4.html
Have you seen this:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...hitch-toplink-swinging-toplink-adapter-hf.jpg
It's made to adapt non quick hitch compatible equipment to work with your quick hitch. To use it you take off the hook on your quick hitch and use the adapter.
Check out posts 38 and 44 of this link, too:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/119074-my-harbor-freight-quick-hitch-4.html
Yep, I'd seen the posts about the HF top link adapter. I was planning on ordering one until I ran across a post on the Land Pride Floating Top Link Assembly QH15. It is basically 2 links (stips) of 1/4" thick by 7-1/8" long by 2" wide with 5-1/8" hole spacing. I made a copy of it with stock I picked up at TSC.
The LP manual for the FTL calls out that it is needed for the following Cat1 impliments:
(I didn't list the Cat2 Impliments)
Category l Floating Top Link
•Flat Deck Grooming Mowers:
Series FD15, FDR15, FDR1660, FDR1672, FD25,
FDR25 and FDR3590 after S/N 294658
•Air Tunnel Grooming Mowers:
Series AT25, AT26 & AT35
•Rotary Cutters:
Series RC15, RCR15, RCR16, RCR18, RCR2560,
RCR2596, RCR2572, RCR2660 & RCR2672
•Power Rake:
Series PR16, PR25
•Seeders:
Series OS15 w/front roller, PS15 & APS15
http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/320-014m.pdf
And here's my version, took the pics before I removed the QH hook.
The issues I have is that the FTL doesn't allow the RC deck rotate down enough, like when I back it over a slope or the tractor crests a slope and picks the deck off the ground. Looking at the second pic I posted from the LP manual, you can see how the slack in the FTL is taken up, causing the deck to lift. This I can deal with by continually adjusting the 3PTH height while cutting.
The real issue I have is when backing the RC deck up on a hill side and the FTL rotates down and binds up on the QH, once this happens the deck will still travel a bit (after the alterations I made to the QH and deck top link, but after it goes so far, the deck top link binds up and won't allow further upward travel. Whereas with the standard toplink on the tractor attached to the top link on the deck (when not using the QH) will just about allow the deck to travel upward until I could just about back it up a wall.
...
The LP manual for the FTL calls out that it is needed for the following Cat1 impliments:
(I didn't list the Cat2 Impliments)
Category l Floating Top Link
•Flat Deck Grooming Mowers:
Series FD15, FDR15, FDR1660, FDR1672, FD25,
FDR25 and FDR3590 after S/N 294658
•Air Tunnel Grooming Mowers:
Series AT25, AT26 & AT35
•Rotary Cutters:
Series RC15, RCR15, RCR16, RCR18, RCR2560,
RCR2596, RCR2572, RCR2660 & RCR2672
•Power Rake:
Series PR16, PR25
•Seeders:
Series OS15 w/front roller, PS15 & APS15
http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/320-014m.pdf
And here's my version, took the pics before I removed the QH hook.
The issues I have is that the FTL doesn't allow the RC deck rotate down enough, like when I back it over a slope or the tractor crests a slope and picks the deck off the ground. Looking at the second pic I posted from the LP manual, you can see how the slack in the FTL is taken up, causing the deck to lift. This I can deal with by continually adjusting the 3PTH height while cutting.
The real issue I have is when backing the RC deck up on a hill side and the FTL rotates down and binds up on the QH, once this happens the deck will still travel a bit (after the alterations I made to the QH and deck top link, but after it goes so far, the deck top link binds up and won't allow further upward travel. Whereas with the standard toplink on the tractor attached to the top link on the deck (when not using the QH) will just about allow the deck to travel upward until I could just about back it up a wall.
...
Number 9,
I never seen the floating top link adapter for the Land Pride Quick Hitch before. Although it seems its made to work with the hook still attached to the Quick Hitch, it also appears that you might get just a little more downward movement on the floating top link if the hook was removed. Have you tried this?
I just checked the floating top link adapter that came with my SpeeCo Quick Hitch. It has three sets of holes that allow two different working lengths, (hole spacings are 7 1/2 inches and 9 inches), and its designed to work with the hook removed from the Quick Hitch. Maybe you could make a set of floating top link adapters to these lengths.
I never seen the floating top link adapter for the Land Pride Quick Hitch before. Although it seems its made to work with the hook still attached to the Quick Hitch, it also appears that you might get just a little more downward movement on the floating top link if the hook was removed. Have you tried this?
I just checked the floating top link adapter that came with my SpeeCo Quick Hitch. It has three sets of holes that allow two different working lengths, (hole spacings are 7 1/2 inches and 9 inches), and its designed to work with the hook removed from the Quick Hitch. Maybe you could make a set of floating top link adapters to these lengths.
Last edited:
gpreuss
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
This is an interesting thread. I went from an L185 to my current L3200, and found the 3ph arms to be about 4" longer on the new. I haven't gone to a quick hitch for the various reasons listed here, but sure like the idea... It is a PITA struggling to get your 400lb mower to line up to your 4000lb tractor when you are all alone, and just need that 1/2"
I find I often use a chain and a few shackles for the top link, particularly while mowing. I use a length that allows me to lift the brush hog about a foot. That is enough to get me out of trouble, but allow plenty of slack while routine mowing, backing up berms, etc. I have a narrow ditch that I can straddle, and the chain keeps the rear of the mower high enough that it does not become a plow.
I find I often use a chain and a few shackles for the top link, particularly while mowing. I use a length that allows me to lift the brush hog about a foot. That is enough to get me out of trouble, but allow plenty of slack while routine mowing, backing up berms, etc. I have a narrow ditch that I can straddle, and the chain keeps the rear of the mower high enough that it does not become a plow.