Need Advice (Desperately)

[Snakebit12]

I have a 2012 M7040 that ran away from me (unattended) down a hill before crashing into the woods. It stopped when it reached a tree that would not give way.

I had parked perpendicular to the slope of the hill with the parking brake on (it is still on ). Must require some adjustment.

It is not a pretty site (pics attached). The font axle is toast as are both front wheels...they literally are both horizontal The loader and tractor frames (may)/(may not) be bent. Hard to tell in the woods.

It is insured which is good given the cost that will be required to fix this. But that isn't my big concern.

My big concern is how the hell to get it out of the woods without causing even more damage. It effectively created the sole access point - it can only come out the way that it went in. I have a neighbor with a 166hp IH that can probably pull it out by connecting to the back end but I don't know how to deal with the front end given that there is no longer a front axle.

The question becomes...what drags on the front end when it is pulled probably 150-200' uphill before reaching flat ground? The frame? What's left of the front axle? The loader? I am afraid that just hooking on some chains and pulling it out will cause even more damage.

It starts and I have full hydraulics.

Any suggestions?

Signed,

Depressed in VA

.

 

[Paul Allwood]

If it was me, I'd be sending photos to the insurance company and getting their permission to move it with your explanation that you're concerned that moving it may cause more damage. If it's in a place that you can't leave it, and you're concerned it may be looted or vandalized if left, I'd explain that to them as well. Let them know the risks and make it their decision would be my advice.

I'm not a lawyer and not in the insurance industry, so this advice might well be worth what you paid for it....but it's well intentioned.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Not sure if engine can be started (damage?) and how the forks are designed, but if you could put those down and tips slightly into the ground they could act as skids and take the weight of the front.

If the forks can be lifted up by hand that would nor work, but maybe there is a way to tie them to the frame.

Damaged radiator would not matter, you can run the engine for a few seconds. And not sure if front axle hydraulics has a leak and if it is connected to the main hydraulics, other people here that know this tractor can probably give advice on that.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Why deal with it at all?

Call the insurance company and let them take care of removing it and disposing of it. Thats their job.

I bet they call a “wrecker company”.

Glad no one got hurt.

 

[JasonW]

Call the insurance and find out what they say.

If it runs and has hydraulics, lift the front end up with the forks to act as a skid. And pull it backwards. You can help steer it with the brakes.

 

[hagrid]

Agree with insurance company handling all facets of this job.

I've performed recoveries not unlike this and its dangerous as all get out.

 

[mikester]

 

[old and tired]

Insurance call first!!!! Chaining front axle up to the front end loader, and/or to the brush guard. Most likely, remove front tires, use the FEL to raise and slide up the hill on... good luck. If you are in the Hillsville area, let me know. Plenty of heavy rescue truck along the interstates!!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I have a 2012 M7040 that ran away from me (unattended) down a hill before crashing into the woods. It stopped when it reached a tree that would not give way.

I had parked perpendicular to the slope of the hill with the parking brake on (it is still on ). Must require some adjustment.

It is not a pretty site (pics attached). The font axle is toast as are both front wheels...they literally are both horizontal The loader and tractor frames (may)/(may not) be bent. Hard to tell in the woods.

It is insured which is good given the cost that will be required to fix this. But that isn't my big concern.

My big concern is how the hell to get it out of the woods without causing even more damage. It effectively created the sole access point - it can only come out the way that it went in. I have a neighbor with a 166hp IH that can probably pull it out by connecting to the back end but I don't know how to deal with the front end given that there is no longer a front axle.

The question becomes...what drags on the front end when it is pulled probably 150-200' uphill before reaching flat ground? The frame? What's left of the front axle? The loader? I am afraid that just hooking on some chains and pulling it out will cause even more damage.

It starts and I have full hydraulics.

Any suggestions?

Signed,

Depressed in VA

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Well you say it is insured, so when the adjuster comes out, he'll call a tow truck or similar to move it. Odds are it'll be 'written off', so if you're happy with that model, 'buy it back' would be a very good idea..

 

[NCL4701]

From the perspective of a now retired insurance adjuster who directly handled or managed exactly this type claim for 35 years, file a claim and collaborate with your insurance carrier on next steps.

Be sure you understand how recovery charges play into coverage. Some policies, it’s an additional coverage that doesn’t reduce the amount of the limit available to pay for the actual damage to the tractor. Some policies, the limit includes everything, period; so a dollar spent on recovery is a dollar less available to pay for the tractor.

If you do have to get a professional tow/recovery service involved, unless it’s readily accessible by truck friendly roads, there are many tow/recovery providers that either won’t be able to do it or they’ll do it for a stupid high price because they don’t have the right equipment and don’t have experience with stuff other than road vehicles. Try to find one that routinely deals with off-road recovery of equipment. Your local dealer is likely a good source for a recommendation if your insurance carrier doesn’t know of someone local.

 

[Snakebit12]

Thank you everyone for your feedback.

I contacted the insurance company yesterday and sent along the same depressing pictures. The adjuster will be calling today.

The tractor does start right up - the forks shielded the engine compartment so no radiator or other engine issues. It's just that damned front axle. It is interesting to see that the axles are angles toward the front of the tractor...it's like the tractor stopped when it hit the tree but the front wheels just kept on going a bit. What a mess.

Since I do have hydraulics, I have considered lowering the forks to create "skis" of sorts and see if that would prevent further damage. Would likely require me to sit in the cab while it is being pulled out which I am not crazy about.

This will be an off-road recovery. The "path" to the scene of the carnage is a bit rough.

I'll wait to hear from the adjustor.

Thank you again...a humbling experience.

 

[Workerbee]

Is it the tie rods that gave way? Maybe repair/replace those in place. With the FEL it shouldnt be too hard to lift it some allowing you to do that work.
Also, hydraulics or a winch are much better to get it back up the hill than a tractor using its tires would be. Several years ago we put a trackloader in the lake down a very steep hill. An excavator pulled it right out with no problems. I didnt have a winch large enough to handle the 8000 lb machine.

 

[Snakebit12]

Is it the tie rods that gave way?

I think so but not certain. To be honest, I am a retired accountant with limited mechanical know-how. I do basic maintenance per the manual. But when you see your wheels literally horizontal, you just know that you've got a problem. I monitor this forum for insights from those with mechanical know-how.

The appraiser is coming later this week so I'll know more then. I have a guy scheduled to extract the unit from the woods. I plan to delay him until after the appraisal in case it is salvageable (if extracted with minimal further damage). If it's toast, further damage is irrelevant.

I really like the tractor and hope that it can be repaired...but fear that it cannot.

 

[NCL4701]

Your second photo clearly shows the front axle had rotated backward 90 degrees. That pipe looking thing the wheel is hooked to (the knuckle) should be vertical, not horizontal. No telling what all is busted under the front end, but that axle is no longer attached to the center pivot.

Even if it’s deemed a total loss, there’s a LOT of value in what’s left of it. There may be further damage which is unavoidable in a reasonable extraction, but even if it’s totaled, further damage isn’t necessarily irrelevant to you if your policy has a set dollar limit. Relevance depends on how the numbers work out and it’s way too early to know that.

 

[Tractor Gal]

Snakebit, I don't have capability/knowledge to give advice...only empathy. I can't imagine the shock of seeing this. Hopefully, the insurance will do the trick by covering everything and you can get the tractor you want and need. OTOH, despite how it looks, if it's a "total loss," buying it back would offer quite a few options, not the least of which is repairing it or parting it out. Since you're not familiar with machines, that may not appeal to you but there may be someone to assist you or "take it off your hands" for a price...if that's allowed by the insurance company. However it is settled, I hope it will be acceptable to you without much loss or maybe even no loss. I hope you'll keep us posted.

Tractor Gal

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Careful running it, as it's very likely the front propeller shaft has done damage to the oil pan.
As others have noted the front axle is been ripped off of it's pivot point.

 

[McMXi]

@Snakebit12 , sorry to see this and I can only imagine how awful you must feel. I've made some terrible mistakes over the years and it's a hard pill to swallow.

When I park the M6060 I always put the transmission in gear, the shuttle shift in the uphill direction and the loader or rear implement on the ground when present. Is it fair to assume that you didn't have the tractor in gear when you parked it? I'm not trying to be a smart arse, but I've done this with my Jeep for 25 years and all manual transmission vehicles for that matter for many decades. I do ask because I haven't actually convinced myself that my approach would prevent the tractor from rolling. Intuitively I assume it would but I should probably check.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

@Snakebit12 , sorry to see this and I can only imagine how awful you must feel. I've made some terrible mistakes over the years and it's a hard pill to swallow.

When I park the M6060 I always put the transmission in gear, the shuttle shift in the uphill direction and the loader or rear implement on the ground when present. Is it fair to assume that you didn't have the tractor in gear when you parked it? I'm not trying to be a smart arse, but I've done this with my Jeep for 25 years and all manual transmission vehicles for that matter for many decades. I do ask because I haven't actually convinced myself that my approach would prevent the tractor from rolling. Intuitively I assume it would but I should probably check.

Yeah but, on our tractors with hydraulic clutches as soon as the engine stops, hydraulic pressure drops and the clutch disengages, so you don't have engine compression helping you. Some of the big tractors have a park pawl, but not my little L, just the parking brake and drop the implements. I avoid parking on an incline if at all possible.

 

[McMXi]

Yeah but, on our tractors with hydraulic clutches as soon as the engine stops, hydraulic pressure drops and the clutch disengages, so you don't have engine compression helping you. Some of the big tractors have a park pawl, but not my little L, just the parking brake and drop the implements. I avoid parking on an incline if at all possible.

Good point re the hydraulic clutch. I should have thought about the M7060 with the 6-speed gear box which has a parking lock on the transmission. I have a very hilly property so need to be particularly careful when parking the M6060. And for anyone thinking of an M6060/M7060, get the 6-speed for sure. I love my M6060 but am under no delusion that it's as good as an M7060 with the added features.

@Snakebit12, thanks for this thread. You might very well prevent others such as myself from facing a similar situation.

 

[JasonW]

Regarding the parking lock you gain with the 12 speed you lose the brake pedal lock that is on the 8 speed models. Notice how it says level ground recommended.


I’ve never liked that design plus as said with the hydraulic shuttle leaving it “in gear” while the engine is off does nothing to hold the tractor in place.

I always let at least the FEL or rear implement if not both on the ground when parking. Also if I dismount with the engine running I will shift the gear lever into neutral. Because if somehow the shuttle lever is moved, the brakes are not stopping it.