My L245DT will not start, checked through the Posts, found post on looking in Inspection Cover helpful

Don P

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Kubota L245DT
Nov 25, 2025
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Florence, MT
The response post from Darren Todd to John146 on June 17, 2014 said "you will see a rod running the length of the pump with springs at both ends. I opened my fuel pump inspection cover and see no rod running the length of the pump. I see the ends of the lever fork, one appears to have wear mark on end. Did I loose this rod somehow? Now what? Also I tried to loosen nuts on the injectors to check fuel flow to injector, they are seized. I am soaking them with liquid wrench now. The price I pay for 45 years of not turning those nuts. Suggestions appreciated.
 

Russell King

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I have no idea what you suspect is missing but I doubt that could just fall out.

Go here and look under the engine section for the injection pump diagram for what is in the injection pump.


And explain what “my L245DT won’t start” means in more detail. I think you means that it spins but won’t fire off and run since you seem to be asking about the fuel side of the engine.

See if any fuel is running to the injection pump by loosening the air vent valve on the pump. Some should be coming out. But I would suspect that the tank has rusted inside and is clogged somewhere (outlet, filter, lines). So in general see where you have fuel running to or not by taking fuel lines off and seeing the flow volume.

I also suspect that it has recently gotten cold in your area and your fuel may not be winter blend and is gelling??

Tell us more of what recent history and what troubles are now occurring and you will get more information back.
 

Don P

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Kubota L245DT
Nov 25, 2025
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Florence, MT
I have no idea what you suspect is missing but I doubt that could just fall out.

Go here and look under the engine section for the injection pump diagram for what is in the injection pump.


And explain what “my L245DT won’t start” means in more detail. I think you means that it spins but won’t fire off and run since you seem to be asking about the fuel side of the engine.

See if any fuel is running to the injection pump by loosening the air vent valve on the pump. Some should be coming out. But I would suspect that the tank has rusted inside and is clogged somewhere (outlet, filter, lines). So in general see where you have fuel running to or not by taking fuel lines off and seeing the flow volume.
w

Tell us more of what recent history and what troubles are now occurring and you will get more information back.
Thanks for your reply. Yes the engine turns over, usually have some white smoke out of the exhaust, not now though. A little history, tractor did run and start well prior to this problem. Yes I did bleed the fuel line at the filter and fuel pump, volume of flow might be issue though. Seems fuel came out in more volume in the past. I'll try draining fuel tank and lines watching for fouling.
the part I was referring to was a rod supposedly visible after removing the inspection panel on the fuel pump. It was referred to in a post by Darren Todd, long term member of this forum, he said it should move back and forth and have springs at both ends, it is on the fuel side of the pump in the speed control group of my engine schematics. It moves with the throttle levers. I see no movement of any part, in that inspection port, when moving the throttle levers. Thanks again for your suggestions. OH not cold enough for gelling problems yet. It will have to wait till after Thanksgiving.
 

Russell King

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Go to this thread, page 31, post 612 and there are some pictures that are looking through the inspection cover on a L295. The parts are NOT assembled properly so don’t think that yours is incorrect if it looks different than the pictures! (Ignore most all of that thread since it seems there was a lot of chain jerking going on)


You can get a work shop manual (WSM) here. Look for the L185…L245 … manual
 

Don P

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Kubota L245DT
Nov 25, 2025
3
0
1
Florence, MT
Go to this thread, page 31, post 612 and there are some pictures that are looking through the inspection cover on a L295. The parts are NOT assembled properly so don’t think that yours is incorrect if it looks different than the pictures! (Ignore most all of that thread since it seems there was a lot of chain jerking going on)


You can get a work shop manual (WSM) here. Look for the L185…L245 … manual
Hey Russell,
I checked my fuel in the fuel filter and it was clean, also opened the fuel cock with filter off and got great flow to the filter. Doubt I have a fouling problem from fuel tank. After bleeding system to the fuel pump, I also cracked a high pressure fuel line to the injector (some posts indicate a potential for air in this part of fuel delivery) and got no fuel when cranking the engine. MY question of the day is would cracking one fuel line to an injector be sufficient to see some fuel while cranking engine? the injector nuts are real tough to access and break loose. I picked on the easiest which was no cake walk either.
I check that post 612 0n page 31. weather here in mid 30's not bad.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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If your getting fuel to the injection pump, and getting no fuel out of the injection pump, you have a linkage, governor or Injection pump issue.
 
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Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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Austin, Texas
MY question of the day is would cracking one fuel line to an injector be sufficient to see some fuel while cranking engine? the injector nuts are real tough to access and break loose. I picked on the easiest which was no cake walk either.
I check that post 612 0n page 31. weather here in mid 30's not bad.
If you run out of fuel at the injection pump, then air will be pumped into the lines to the injectors.

You then must bleed that air out to get the engine running properly again. The air is compressible and cannot inject fuel through the injectors (It acts like a dash pot (shock absorber) in the fuel line).

I never loosen the lines at the pump from fear of making some unintended adjustment to the pump by rotating the ”parts” under that small line nut, if it is hard to break loose. I did replace the injectors, and lines between the pump and injectors one time. The lines looked a bit corroded inside. When doing that, I held the larger nut (on top of the pump) with a larger wrench and easily broke the injector line nuts loose without moving the large nut. (I may have put some marks so I was 100% sure they didn’t move.)

I loosen the nuts at the injectors and pull out the decompression rod and set the throttle to full RPM position. I see a mixture of fuel with air bubbles when cranking the engine. After a few crank/cool starter sessions, the bubbles will start to be less and less and then disappear. This usually happens at one injector first so I then close that injector line nut. I then get the air out of the other line completely and close that injector line nut. Then wait for starter to cool down and start the tractor. I then, of course, lower the engine RPM and while it is running I crack each individual injector (one at a time) to see if there is more air in the line and that the engine RPM decreases on each cylinder, ensuring that it is injecting fuel. (Last step is probably not required but that is what I do!)

You have not really told us what happened to your tractor to stop it from starting. Please do that and you will probably get more useful information back.

The injector lines will almost always eject some fuel but never a whole lot. Sometimes it is just fuel, but there is less fuel and more air if it has died from lack of fuel.
The nuts on my tractor are easy to access at the injectors and I think I have seen pictures of L245 that are similar easy access there.
 
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