Mowing Steep / Bumpy Hill

JayOrange

New member
Mar 20, 2017
23
0
0
New York
So I have mowed my lawn twice now (BX2370). It's 2+ acres and most of it is a slope that's anywhere from 10-15 degrees to 20-30 degrees. I really don't feel comfortable mowing up about 75% of it because it's steep and a bit uneven and bumpy. So I've been just continuously using the same area to ride up and then mowing down the rest.

The one downside to this is that it takes extra time. I mow 25% of the yard going up and another 25% going down but then need to go over the already mowed section two more times to mow the remaining 50% of the slope.

Is there a better way?

Also, I have been keeping my loader and box blade on the tractor while I mow. I kept the loader on for if I did get myself in a tough spot I thought I could use to get me out. The box blade is there to counter weight the loader. I also thought the extra weight could help give me better traction too.

However, I wonder if it's actually making things more dangerous on the hills? Or if it's going to be bad for the hydraulics?

One last question... should I be aiming to mow in a pattern that is always right to left? It seems by doing this I will avoid mowing over where I throw clippings and will allow them to be more evenly spread.

Any and all help appreciated. I do think I'm getting the hang of things but any more information helps! Thanks!
 

jkcolo22

Member

Equipment
BX25D
Jan 5, 2017
291
4
18
Castle Rock, Colorado
I'm guessing you are mowing with a MMM? I find that when mowing, it's better to remove the FEL and rear attachments. How steep is steep? If you can get up the hill without issue, you should be able to mow at the same time. If it's sketchy getting up without running the mower, then trust your instincts and don't do it.

I personally try to run over my clippings as it breaks them down further. I do still get some "windrows" when I'm throwing clippings against grass that hasn't been cut, but it really depends on how tall the grass it. When I'm mowing 4 acres of native grasses, I tend to focus on efficiency over looks, but it still looks pretty dang good when I'm done and I tend to be a little erratic with my mowing.


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BAP

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Dec 31, 2012
2,531
670
113
New Hampshire
I think you will find that taking off the loader and rear blade will make you feel more stable. Also, are your rear tires loaded? If not, get them loaded as this adds weight down low and adds stability. If after that you still are uncertain, consider adding rear wheel spacers. Widening out the rear wheels will make you feel much more stable.
 

RCW

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
8,397
4,051
113
Chenango County, NY
Jay -

A couple pictures would help me, but slope doesn't always portray well via photos.

Like you, I mow with a BX on steep and bumpy stuff in NYS. Not nearly as much area, though.

First thing I would do is take the FEL and BB off!! As mentioned, get the rears loaded if not already.

You will be astounded by the difference!

Also, you may want to consider wheel spacers. I've been fine without them, and mow some pretty steep stuff; most across the slope.

I will try to upload a couple pictures of what I do, although it's in seed now.

I don't run over clippings. One and done. Always discharge onto mowed ground.

This area was torn up by a house project. Very steep, and I mow it across the slope. Done it 26 years same way.



After seeding.



I don't know slope degrees, but steep. This is better than it was before.
 
Last edited:

BotaLoda

Member

Equipment
BX2370, Loader w/tooth bar, MMM, sub soiler, 5' rake, rear ballast box, forks.
Feb 28, 2017
120
0
16
Cosby, TN
I realize this is from last week but I was doing a search for BX Wheel Spacers and stumbled upon it. Definitely agree with the advice to remove the FEL! And then if you are going steep uphill, better get rid of the weight in the rear too. When I first got my tractor, before doing any mowing, I was worried I wouldn't even be able to turn around at the bottom of the hill, but removing the FEL made a world of difference.
Today I was turning a drainage ditch into a valley. With the loader and rear ballast box (only fill it half way and try to keep it as close to the ground as possible). So I had two wheels in the ditch and two out to cut the valley. One side was easy, but the other side was getting scary. I'll go till I start to worry, then grab the side handle and attempt to jerk it to lift the uphill wheel. If it lifts the wheel I lower the rear ballast so it is slightly dragging along. Actually for part of it I had to go at a right angle and with the teeth on the bucket backing up, dragging sod into the ditch until it was full enough that I was out of danger.
 

JayOrange

New member
Mar 20, 2017
23
0
0
New York
SO MUCH BETTER WITH FEL AND BOX BLADE OFF!

I felt much more space going up steeper parts of my hill. It's similar to the hill you pictured RCW. I know they don't translate well into pictures. I don't know I would want to go sideways on mine though! Mostly because it's very bumpy at parts and the wrong bump or small ditch and I'd be afraid of rolling over.

Anyway, don't think I'll get wheel spacers just yet.

I will have to get better at removing the FEL though. It took my forever to realize I needed to turn the shovel in a way that allowed the thing to fall forward and the boom fall out / off the tractor. I kept trying to reverse and move in such a way to get it to detach but no luck. Felt like an idiot.
 

clay45

New member

Equipment
L2050DT, TSC 5ft Rake, Tartar 5ft rototiller, TSC Middlebuster, TSC CarryAll
Feb 6, 2015
279
1
0
SC
Good advice above. Also stay in Fwd.