I'm new here but it's getting cold and the 2000 m9000 has no heat from vents. Where is the heater core located? Is there a inline shut off valve in these tractors as I have read about? Lastly, any special cooant refill procedure? Thank you in advance
M9000 no heat
- Thread starter bsamot69
- Start date
If it's a cab model (which I presume it is, the heater core is located under the roof as well as the water valve which is cable operated. You need to remove the outer roof to access the valve and blower motor which is also the ac cooling blower.
I would strongly suggest when you remove the roof to add a layer of 'Reflectix' foil / bubble / foil insulation (available at any box store like Lowes) to the underside of the roof. Will make a huge difference in the cooling ability and in the heat efficiency as well.
I used 3M general purpose adhesive to attach the Reflectix to my roof a few years ago. Made a huge difference in cooling and heating.
I'm new too to the forum but not new to M series tractors, have 2.
I would strongly suggest when you remove the roof to add a layer of 'Reflectix' foil / bubble / foil insulation (available at any box store like Lowes) to the underside of the roof. Will make a huge difference in the cooling ability and in the heat efficiency as well.
I used 3M general purpose adhesive to attach the Reflectix to my roof a few years ago. Made a huge difference in cooling and heating.
I'm new too to the forum but not new to M series tractors, have 2.
Thanks for posting this. I rarely hear of heat issues, however a/c cooling performance issues are quite common and in this heat/humidty that we experience here, I get that call all too often! I will suggest this to those who might call next spring.
Problem with the roof on the earlier models of Kubota tractors and the rest where the ac and heat is roof mounted is one, the color of the roof (it absorbs heat) and the lack of any efficient insulation between the roof and the heat / ac components.
Had that issue and put on my thinking cap. I use Relectix in my RV to reflect heat in the summer to allow the ac to work better (on the windows) so it stood to reason that it would work on my tractors and it does, quite well.
I work both in the summer haying and it's hot and I like staying cool. That cab is my shelter from the heat and the chaff from making hay.
Reflectix is a very high efficiency insulator and it's thin and easy to work with.
Just have to fix it so it's immobile so I used 3M general adhesive.
Always good to pull the roof once in a while and blow out the components. Even though the cab air is filtered, they still collect dirt and dust.
Had that issue and put on my thinking cap. I use Relectix in my RV to reflect heat in the summer to allow the ac to work better (on the windows) so it stood to reason that it would work on my tractors and it does, quite well.
I work both in the summer haying and it's hot and I like staying cool. That cab is my shelter from the heat and the chaff from making hay.
Reflectix is a very high efficiency insulator and it's thin and easy to work with.
Just have to fix it so it's immobile so I used 3M general adhesive.
Always good to pull the roof once in a while and blow out the components. Even though the cab air is filtered, they still collect dirt and dust.
Hey I know this may be a dumb question but what’s the best way to get in under the head liner to remove I think it is called an expansion valve for my air conditioning. If I try to take the screws out from the bottom the whole headliner wants to come out with all the wires and stuff I am afraid I will mess them up. Is there an easier way? I looked to go in from the outside but I don’t see any way to take the top cover off. Thank you Jason.
If you have all the vents located in the inside headliner. then the works are up top. If you have vents next to the instrument cluster, then the 'works' are under the seat. If overhead, there are (I believe because I haven't pulled them lately) 6 longer screws that hold the top to the top of the ROPS structure.
Best way to determine which screws are which is start backing them out. The longer ones will be the top hold down screws, the shorter ones retain the headliner. As you back them out, run back in the shorter ones and leave out the longer ones and the top will come off.
You can mark the longer screw heads with paint if you want for 'next time' to make it easier.
Best way to determine which screws are which is start backing them out. The longer ones will be the top hold down screws, the shorter ones retain the headliner. As you back them out, run back in the shorter ones and leave out the longer ones and the top will come off.
You can mark the longer screw heads with paint if you want for 'next time' to make it easier.
Additionally, on the older M9's (with the works overhead), they don't have a rad drain for coolant change. What you have to do is loosen the clamp on the lower rad hose and drain the coolant from there which is think is kind of a lame method but it does work just fine. Just changed both of mine. 50-50 mix of conventional antifreeze and distilled water.