I have an M9000 with a cab and loader. I have about 2000 hrs on it since purchasing it new. The issue I have is that I am about to have the clutch replaced for the second time, as soon as the dealer can work me in. The dealer states that this new clutch that will be installed is an upgrade from the origional clutch. That is what I was told when the clutch was replaced the first time. I have searched online but cannot find any information that says there is a reliable, long term fix for this clutch. Does anyone know of a fix or should I think of unloading this tractor when it is operational again? Other than expensive clutch repairs, I have had no bad experiences with this tractor.
M9000 clutch
- Thread starter FireFarm
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Is it a dry type clutch or a wet type clutch that's going out?
Sounds a bit odd if it's the wet type as they are normally bullet proof.
Sounds a bit odd if it's the wet type as they are normally bullet proof.
This is a dry clutch. I wish that it was a wet type. I did some figuring and noted it could cost me about $2.50 per tractor hour used for the clutch upkeep.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Dry disk type clutches can fail for several reasons, bad clutch disk, bad pressure plate, bad flywheel surface, bad throw-out bearing, bad pilot bearing, misadjusted or binding clutch linkage, or someone riding the clutch.
Have a look at it when it's been disassembled and look for bluing and crazing (spider web looking cracks) on the flywheel and or pressure plate.
If the clutch material is still intact and of sufficient thickness that would point to a failure of the pressure plate or misadjusted linkage.
If the material is warn completely down then it has been slipping excessively for a long time.
If the flywheel and or pressure plate have gouges in them that would mean a failure of the disk, the disk will also be destroyed.
That would tell me that it had a disk problem or someone has popped the clutch one to many times.
Have a look at it when it's been disassembled and look for bluing and crazing (spider web looking cracks) on the flywheel and or pressure plate.
If the clutch material is still intact and of sufficient thickness that would point to a failure of the pressure plate or misadjusted linkage.
If the material is warn completely down then it has been slipping excessively for a long time.
If the flywheel and or pressure plate have gouges in them that would mean a failure of the disk, the disk will also be destroyed.
That would tell me that it had a disk problem or someone has popped the clutch one to many times.
FireFarm
Do you periodically check clutch foot pedal for correct free travel? As Wolfman stated riding with foot on clutch pedal will drastically shorten the clutches life.
Do you periodically check clutch foot pedal for correct free travel? As Wolfman stated riding with foot on clutch pedal will drastically shorten the clutches life.
Dan_R_42
Member
Equipment
B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
Are you the only operator of this machine or do you have others that operate it also?
PS: Welcome to OTT...
PS: Welcome to OTT...
My dad and I are the only operators of the tractor. I have not yet witnessed him popping the clutch, but I can't watch him all the time. Tx Jim, I do keep an eye on ajustment and keep it set as per the manual. It has never needed much ajustment. I will look at the parts when disassembled and compare them to Wolfman's remarks. Dealer states it may be two weeks before I can get worked in.
Right now the clutch is adjusted, no unusual noises, and no unusual feel in the clutch pedal. It just won't pull.
Right now the clutch is adjusted, no unusual noises, and no unusual feel in the clutch pedal. It just won't pull.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
If you can snap some pics of the parts and post them I might be able to give some more insight.
Sounds like you don't have operational issues like riding or popping the clutch and you do know about adjusting the clutch, so my bet would be on Disk or Pressure plate failure.
Sounds like you don't have operational issues like riding or popping the clutch and you do know about adjusting the clutch, so my bet would be on Disk or Pressure plate failure.
I'm going to say the wear is caused from riding the clutch doing loader work.
In hurry to get done so you run in high range instead of low. The speed is fine for almost everything except when you're stacking hay or loading it on and off the trailer.
or
When you're out in the field you rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving.
Either of these will shorten the clutch life by half or more.
In hurry to get done so you run in high range instead of low. The speed is fine for almost everything except when you're stacking hay or loading it on and off the trailer.
or
When you're out in the field you rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving.
Either of these will shorten the clutch life by half or more.
I appreciate the fact that the wear is from using the clutch doing loader work, haying, plowing, and field work. I do get in hurries but I believe in RPM's. I have been doing this work for over 40 tractor driving years and my habits haven't changed. I have four brands of tractors and use one of these other brands as often as I do my Kubota(which has many less hours). What I have problem with is the fact that I have never had any clutch issues and this tractor has bit me twice while doing the same work as my others. My main question is does anyone know that if this clutch can be rebuilt to handle "normal everyday" use or will it never compare to others? I don't want to have to chase this repair again.