Leaking hydraulic fluid from weep plug - L4600

berrmich

New member
May 16, 2012
2
0
1
Dowagiac, MI
I have an L4600 with hydraulic oil leaking from the weep hole on the bellhousing underneath. It only have 370 hours on it but its about 10 years old. I'm told by Kubota that it will need to be split and seals replaced. I'm thinking of doing this myself.

Any tips or tricks?
Anyone have the WSM for the L4600?

-Mike
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,501
2,208
113
Mid, South, USA
you will need lots of space, a way to hold the two heavy halves of the tractor and one of them will need to roll. Lots of tools, and it helps to have a forklift or something similar to move heavy parts as needed.

Once you have all the stuff, and plenty of room to work, it's not terribly hard. Unless the rear driveshaft collar falls off, then you're in for a challenge in getting it back onto it's shaft while up inside the transmission. And it's way in the back.

Takes me about 12-13 hours if I do it myself at the house. If it's got a backhoe on it you will have to totally remove it and all subframes. I leave the loader on and roll the back half of the tractor away from the stationary front half. I normally roll it back a good 6 or 8 foot from the front to give plenty of room to work because you'll be working around the bellhousing area and the propeller shaft is about 3 1/2 foot long and will need to be removed completely.

Not terribly hard to do but I've done a couple and have the tools.
 
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berrmich

New member
May 16, 2012
2
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1
Dowagiac, MI
I didn't really check the level. doesn't look like engine oil though.

So I have a forklift and a reasonable amount of room. I also have a car lift that I thought I might use to stabilize things? I have enough tools to do most things with a car but no specialty "tractor" tools. This will be my first time working on the tractor.

I've scoured the internet looking for the WSM but for this tractor is just not available. I think I'll have to buy a paper copy if you think that would be helpful.

-Mike
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,501
2,208
113
Mid, South, USA
I didn't really check the level. doesn't look like engine oil though.

So I have a forklift and a reasonable amount of room. I also have a car lift that I thought I might use to stabilize things? I have enough tools to do most things with a car but no specialty "tractor" tools. This will be my first time working on the tractor.

I've scoured the internet looking for the WSM but for this tractor is just not available. I think I'll have to buy a paper copy if you think that would be helpful.

-Mike
support the front half with the loader frames. I put jack stands under them and shim the stands with plywood or sheet metal so that they both support the front of the tractor at just the right level. This takes some practice to know how much tension to put on the jack stands at rest before splitting. I have used screw jacks for this in the past, I suppose scissor jacks would work as well. I've never had luck with fork truck to support/move them, unless they're already split and I'm moving half of it outside out of the way so I can split another one. One time I had two identical tractors split and forgot to tag whose was whose. That was interesting....

if y'aint got a loader on it, you'll have to support the front half somehow. Maybe make up some cribbing under the oil pan or something. The pan is really thick, and cast aluminum, you aren't gonna hurt it. The biggest thing here is to make a way to keep the engine/front from pivoting side-to-side as you split it. I made some wood wedges but they were never the right size, never stayed in place either. At one point I had a set of adjustable J-hooks that clipped onto the frame and then had a bolt adjuster on the outside that you could adjust. They were SLICK, but they 'disappeared' (along with some other stuff) when one of the techs suddenly quit. Funny how that works.

For the smaller tractors I sometimes used an electric pallet stacker (fork over leg) to move half of the tractor, but had to crib the forks with wood blocks. That worked "pretty good". BUT, IMO, a floor jack works better. I put the floor jack pad under the mid section, while leaving the front half on jackstands, then use the floor jack to roll the back half away from the front. The biggest challenge is keeping the jack from turning sideways, I sometimes would either use a helper, or if the other tech was gone or real busy, I'd put a bungee strap around the jack handle to hold it tight up against the drawbar frame. This worked decent.

Ideally a track system is used in conjunction with a screw jack so that the jack lifts a half, and the track keeps it going in a straight line fore and aft. This makes reassembling the halves MUCH easier! I was fixing to make a track system but ended up leaving the dealer before I could acquire all the parts. Now, with zero need for it, I scrapped the plan altogether.

we had lifts at work but they were always in the way to split a tractor, never used them for the purpose. Also had forklifts and the only time I used those for splitting was the walkie stacker (for smaller tractors) and/or lifting larger tractor halves, which thankfully we didn't do much of. It was just not safe to do it the way the boss wanted it, which was the cheapest way and also one (of many) reason I left.
 
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