L3800 or L4600 compost piles, no implements

[makakilooo]

Keeping my L2250 gear FEL. Having difficulty moving 60 yard compost piles..
The turf tires are harming my horse pastures. Considering L3800 or L4600 HST, FEL, R4's. Can't crack $21,800-L3800 or $26,700-L4600, all 3 dealers same quote.
Rented a 60hp skid steer 1 yd bucket and super easy.Was it the hp or the design of a skid steer ?
Can I do better on the price elsewhere ? Where in the Northeast ?
Is the $5000 for the extra 9 hp worth it, or even necessary ?
Open to sugestions on add ons etc.
Thanks for looking.

 

[Bluegill]

Though I love my L3800. Bucket size per trip is key here. The 4600 will get it done quicker.

The skid steer is designed for this type of work, so maybe it's better? I still would rather use a tractor.

5k more for the 4600 worth it? It is if you 'need' a larger tractor. It's not just 9 more HP, it's a larger, heavier tractor with higher lift capacities and larger bucket.

Both fantastic machines!

Prices looks a bit high. I think you can do better, but I like to buy local myself.

 

[gpreuss]

Somebody tell me if I'm wrong, but I believe compost is pretty lightweight. I also believe you could go to a bigger bucket - say the one that comes with the L4600 - on the L3800. along the same lines, you could probably go to an even larger bucket on the L4600... I've seen large compost buckets listed on the net.
You are buying the tractor, and you can tailor it somewhat to fit your needs.
Whichever you get, make sure the rear tires are filled, and you have something hanging on the back. With filled R4s and 140 lbs/wheel weights, I'm amazed at how easy it is to run out of traction in 2WD. I usually have a heavy Rhino blade, or my 600+ lb ballast block if I'm doing any serious lifting - and 4WD.

 

[makakilooo]

Thoughts and insight appreciated.
Both of you are right, compost is somewhat light,and guess the skid steer by configuration is more eficient, but totally destroys pasture, and I too preferred the tractor. Hadn't given the bucket much thought, hung up on hp, and brute force, if a little is good, a lot is better..lol.
Had assumed the L3200, L3600, and L4600 were all on the same frame, as they are marketed together. Located another dealer in state $600 lower.
$21,000 L3800 HST, 4wd quick release FEL, cruise control, work light, FEL hooks.
$26,000 for L4600 equipped the same.
Asking $350 for tire liquid (rimguard). You've given me food for thought. Financing promotion, 0% DOWN, 0% INEREST, 5 YEARS TO PAY.
Looking at the small difference in monthly payments, the L4600 is tempting me.

Again, thanks for your insight.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

When in doubt go bigger. L4600 all the way baby!

 

[Russell King]

You might want to look at an articulated loader or articulated skid steer

somewhere between a tractor and skid steer - weight is more to the rear so can lift more and they don't have to skid to turn (so not sure why they are still called a skid steer ....)

 

[Eric McCarthy]

A skid steer does skid rather then turn. One with tires on it tears up alot of ground and eats up tires quicker. If you get a skid steer with tank tracks on it, thats the way to go. Less ground pressure and won't tear up the ground.

A wheel loader or articulated loader has rubber tires on it and bends in the middle to turn. Won't tear up the ground and causes less damage. But won't turn around on a dime like a skid steer.

 

[BotaDriver]

As an L3800 owner, I would say to buy my 3800 so I can go get the 4600

That should answer it for you. The 3200/3800 are worthless if you do a lot of work with your tractor. If you want hydro drive, buy a bobcat. The "not a synchro anywhere in the transmission" 3200/3800 is an absolute joke.

I've gotten the 'on the fly' shift from 3H to 4H down pretty well, but not having synchro is complete BS. Starting out in 4H is almost impossible without tons of clutch slip unless pointing down hill or on completely flat pavement. The 4600 solves these issues.

Also, get the quick attach FEL and find an old used large bobcat bucket to make quick work of your piles.

 

[Bluegill]

As an L3800 owner, I would say to buy my 3800 so I can go get the 4600

That should answer it for you. The 3200/3800 are worthless if you do a lot of work with your tractor. If you want hydro drive, buy a bobcat. The "not a synchro anywhere in the transmission" 3200/3800 is an absolute joke.

I've gotten the 'on the fly' shift from 3H to 4H down pretty well, but not having synchro is complete BS. Starting out in 4H is almost impossible without tons of clutch slip unless pointing down hill or on completely flat pavement. The 4600 solves these issues.

Also, get the quick attach FEL and find an old used large bobcat bucket to make quick work of your piles.

I do like the 'new' synchro trans on the L4600DT a LOT. But I wouldn't throw the 3200/3800 under the bus so quick. I still love my L3800DT and have learned to use it with no issues.

BTW, he's looking at HST, so the synchro thing isn't an issue here.

 

[BotaDriver]

I do like the 'new' synchro trans on the L4600DT a LOT. But I wouldn't throw the 3200/3800 under the bus so quick. I still love my L3800DT and have learned to use it with no issues.

BTW, he's looking at HST, so the synchro thing isn't an issue here.

If the tractor is running with the clutch out and the directional handle is in N, the clutch must be depressed for 5 seconds or more before it can be put into R/L/H as you have to wait until the trans spins down. This issue is exacerbated significantly as the engine RPM increases.

So if you're hoggin and come across something in the field, you must stop, bring RPM to idle, shift directional to N, disengage PTO ( or lift seat when getting down), remove object, sit in seat, depress clutch and hold while trans spins down, engage pto, engage directional control, bring RPM up slightly, partially release clutch to spin up implement, bring RPM to desired operating speed, release clutch further to begin movement.

It should be, encounter object, clutch, move directional to neutral, move object, clutch>movement>release. Having to move back to idle to toss an item aside is a huge PITA.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

The L3800 has straight cut gears, I do believe. Meaning you come to a complete stop to change gears or direction.

 

[BotaDriver]

The issue has to deal with being a synchronized transmission or not. Straight cut (stronger though noisier) vs helix (quieter, not as strong) isn't the issue. Yes, the 3200/38 need to be stopped to change gears; however, I routinely go from 3rd to 4th and back while clutching on the move without grinding. Directional change is certainly a fully stopped / transmission wound down affair.

 

[Bluegill]

If the tractor is running with the clutch out and the directional handle is in N, the clutch must be depressed for 5 seconds or more before it can be put into R/L/H as you have to wait until the trans spins down. This issue is exacerbated significantly as the engine RPM increases.

So if you're hoggin and come across something in the field, you must stop, bring RPM to idle, shift directional to N, disengage PTO ( or lift seat when getting down), remove object, sit in seat, depress clutch and hold while trans spins down, engage pto, engage directional control, bring RPM up slightly, partially release clutch to spin up implement, bring RPM to desired operating speed, release clutch further to begin movement.

It should be, encounter object, clutch, move directional to neutral, move object, clutch>movement>release. Having to move back to idle to toss an item aside is a huge PITA.

Just old school tractor operation. The L3800 is my 5th and they all work that way. I have no issues at all with this type of rig, but would really like one with fully synchronized trans...

 

[BotaDriver]

Just old school tractor operation. The L3800 is my 5th and they all work that way. I have no issues at all with this type of rig, but would really like one with fully synchronized trans...

Yeah, it's kind of sad that Kubota doesn't just make Directional sync'd as well as 3-4. I believe they used to do that on the older L4xxx series (now fully). It probably wouldn't add a MFG cost of $100 or so, but would make a lot of our lives much easier

 

[dmanlyr]

As an L3800 owner, I would say to buy my 3800 so I can go get the 4600

That should answer it for you. The 3200/3800 are worthless if you do a lot of work with your tractor. If you want hydro drive, buy a bobcat. The "not a synchro anywhere in the transmission" 3200/3800 is an absolute joke.

I've gotten the 'on the fly' shift from 3H to 4H down pretty well, but not having synchro is complete BS. Starting out in 4H is almost impossible without tons of clutch slip unless pointing down hill or on completely flat pavement. The 4600 solves these issues.

Also, get the quick attach FEL and find an old used large bobcat bucket to make quick work of your piles.

This is the way that I am also familiar with on all of the older manual tractors that I have been on. Depending upon the model and the wear and tear on the tranny, I was, like you able to shift some gears on the fly, but not all. Guess it is old school.

Are you thinking something like the glide shift that allows you to shift gears moving? I have to admit that I have never operated one, but I hear tell that forward and backward operation can be done without clutching?

David

 

[makakilooo]

All good ideas and well received input. Have until May 31 to commit. (0 down, 0% interest, and, $1500 rebate). Biggest problem with my current L2250,is attacking a 60 yard compost mountain with a 50" LIGHT bUCKET. The front turf tires ruin my pastures. The small treads dice the grass.
Appreciate the input comments. Keep them coming, tapping your minds.

 

[Bluegill]

All good ideas and well received input. Have until May 31 to commit. (0 down, 0% interest, and, $1500 rebate). Biggest problem with my current L2250,is attacking a 60 yard compost mountain with a 50" LIGHT bUCKET. The front turf tires ruin my pastures. The small treads dice the grass.
Appreciate the input comments. Keep them coming, tapping your minds.

Do you have rear ballast on the 3 pt hitch? You need about twice the weight, or more of a bucket load. This takes the weight off the front end and front tires. This also helps in more ways than just saving your grass.

 

[makakilooo]

Do you have rear ballast on the 3 pt hitch? You need about twice the weight, or more of a bucket load. This takes the weight off the front end and front tires. This also helps in more ways than just saving your grass.

Never realized there was a formula. Yes, have a 400# block on the 3pt. Would guess wet compost weighs in about 500-600#. Now that you mention it, it is the front turf tires that are dicing up my pastures and turnouts.

 

[Bluegill]

Never realized there was a formula. Yes, have a 400# block on the 3pt. Would guess wet compost weighs in about 500-600#. Now that you mention it, it is the front turf tires that are dicing up my pastures and turnouts.

Double your rear weight and the front tires wont dig in as bad. Your front axle will also thank you.

 

[BotaDriver]

Wouldn't hurt to put 1k ballast in the back and get a larger bucket. Might be able to find a rough old used bobcat bucket if you have the QA.

Keep in mind though, your little tractor will get quite a bit of use!

Personally I think you'd be better off with the 4600 GST.

If your dealer has an area to demo the tractors by actually lifting / moving things, that might just sell you. I recall you said you have front AG tires? Might consider trying to find the same size in IND tires for the front.

I prefer the R4 tires though, they grip rather well, have a nice large footprint, and I couldn't see having any more grip than the R4s as I already tear up enough stuff.