L3800 loaded R4 tire weight?

[Who is John Galt]

How much do my R4s each weigh assuming they are loaded to 75% - 80% capacity with Rimguard?

Asking because I need a reason to have my stealership install my wheel spacers.

If I were to remove them myself, how manageable are they, and how tough to get lined up and back on the wheel studs . . ??

 

[BotaDriver]

Per the manual the loaded ballast adds about 330-350lbs per tire. The wheel and tire weight are easily 150lbs. You're looking at 500lb tires, not something you want to take off without having an engine hoist or equivalent hooked to the tire before unbolting.

I've seen a 500lb wheel/tire fall on a camera guy one time on DIRTY JOBS on discovery and it took 2 people to remove it from his legs. Be extremely cautious if you do it yourself and have a second person in the shop with you.

 

[Who is John Galt]

Thanks BotaDriver, good advice and well received. I will be careful. The engine hoist is a great idea.

 

[RBA50]

Need to know what size tires you have before you can get a real answer. If you go to the rimguard site, I believe their is a table that lists the added weight for various size tires. If not there, Google will find a table for you.

 

[gpreuss]

The loaded tire weighs in at 494lbs - 500 is a good guess, or rule of thumb. Note that the rim has no opening for a strap for your engine hoist. I just changed from R4s over to R1s, so I have moved a lot of tire around just lately. The R4s were a lot easier to handle - they have a pretty flat tread and don't try to fall over on you too much. R1s were a bear.
I did the change on concrete, and used an automotive hydraulic jack under the ROPS bracket. That gave me the fine control I needed for lining things up.
I'm 68 and not near so strong as I once was, but I had no real problem either removing or installing the wheels. Just take your time, be careful, and ALWAYS have an exit strategy.

 

[Who is John Galt]

The loaded tire weighs in at 494lbs - 500 is a good guess, or rule of thumb. Note that the rim has no opening for a strap for your engine hoist. I just changed from R4s over to R1s, so I have moved a lot of tire around just lately. The R4s were a lot easier to handle - they have a pretty flat tread and don't try to fall over on you too much. R1s were a bear.
I did the change on concrete, and used an automotive hydraulic jack under the ROPS bracket. That gave me the fine control I needed for lining things up.
I'm 68 and not near so strong as I once was, but I had no real problem either removing or installing the wheels. Just take your time, be careful, and ALWAYS have an exit strategy.

Thanks gpreuss. You are absolutely correct . . . no opening for a strap . . hmmm. I will be doing the change on concrete also. I am 61 and still pretty strong . . just don't bounce as good as I used to. Having been a guitar player in a blues band, I have learned to ALWAYS have an exit strategy . . . :

 

[skeets]

Well another thing if your going to fill them your self would to be jack the tractor up and turn the valves to 1200 let the air out and fill them on the tractor, that way ya aint gota try and lift twist and turn them in to place,, been there done that aint doin it again

 

[85Hokie]

How much do my R4s each weigh assuming they are loaded to 75% - 80% capacity with Rimguard?

Asking because I need a reason to have my stealership install my wheel spacers.

If I were to remove them myself, how manageable are they, and how tough to get lined up and back on the wheel studs . . ??

JG,

I once changed the brakes on a ford 8 n with filled tires, those mo fo' were HEAVY, but the trick is to raise the tractor about an 1/8 - 1/4 off the ground, just enough to allow the holes to come away from the bolts.......then when you roll the wheels back, the hard part is not LIFTING them onto the bolts but simply getting them to line up....and if you wheels are chocked and the tractor is in N, simply spin the hub till it lines up. Like others said, take your time and move the tires as little as possible. Good luck

 

[Who is John Galt]

JG,

I once changed the brakes on a ford 8 n with filled tires, those mo fo' were HEAVY, but the trick is to raise the tractor about an 1/8 - 1/4 off the ground, just enough to allow the holes to come away from the bolts.......then when you roll the wheels back, the hard part is not LIFTING them onto the bolts but simply getting them to line up....and if you wheels are chocked and the tractor is in N, simply spin the hub till it lines up. Like others said, take your time and move the tires as little as possible. Good luck

Thanks 85Hokie . . that is really good advice.