As stated in a previous poster, I inherited a mid 80's L355ss. Now I am trying to get it back operational. I seems like the clutch isn't engaging, so I look on the right side of the tractor and the clutch cover is off. So I am assuming my grandpa was having issues with it when he parked it. Can anyone lead me in the direction of servicing the clutch? Or attempting to trouble shoot what ever he might have been trying to trouble shoot. The tractor starts fine, but does not engage when I let out the clutch. The hydraulic fluid looks good. The SS seems to be working appropriately.
L355ss Clutch not engaging
- Thread starter FireNHunt
- Start date
rbargeron
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L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Might be worn clutch pedal linkage. Also, its hard to tell for sure but the release fork 6 and the hub 10 look worn in the picture. They only move a small distance so wear affects whether they work right. Another common thing is the hub gets stuck (lack of grease) and doesn't move as it should. Is the hub moving back and forth with the pedal? If its stuck maybe it can be freed up with penetrating oil and moved with a prybar helping the linkage?
If the clutch isn't engaging when letting up the pedal, what leads you to believe the F and R shuttle clutch packs are working ok? Is there pressure at the control valve (under the fuel tank)? It gets oil from the priority valve under the seat.
If the clutch isn't engaging when letting up the pedal, what leads you to believe the F and R shuttle clutch packs are working ok? Is there pressure at the control valve (under the fuel tank)? It gets oil from the priority valve under the seat.
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The hub does move back and forth when pushing the pedal. To be honest I don't know if the F and R of the shuttle shift is operating correctly. What is the best way to rule that out?
rbargeron
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Does the loader operate normally and the 3-point hitch lift up and drop ok? (hydraulic clues)
With engine running and pto lever engaged does the shaft turn? Does it stop with the clutch pedal pushed down? (linkage adjustment clues)
With FWD disengaged try jacking up one rear tire. With engine running and trans in gear, does shifting the shuttle lever to F or R turn the raised wheel? If so does pushing the brake pedal load the engine? Any noises? (main clutch and/or shuttle pack clues) We're looking for seven yes's and a no.
The most common clutch failure mode is excess slipping. Clutch wear (or destruction) prevents engagement. Adjust the linkage so the pedal has about 1" of free motion before it starts moving the hub forward.
With engine running and pto lever engaged does the shaft turn? Does it stop with the clutch pedal pushed down? (linkage adjustment clues)
With FWD disengaged try jacking up one rear tire. With engine running and trans in gear, does shifting the shuttle lever to F or R turn the raised wheel? If so does pushing the brake pedal load the engine? Any noises? (main clutch and/or shuttle pack clues) We're looking for seven yes's and a no.
The most common clutch failure mode is excess slipping. Clutch wear (or destruction) prevents engagement. Adjust the linkage so the pedal has about 1" of free motion before it starts moving the hub forward.
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The loader and 3 point work properly. The pto shaft does not turn when engaged and pedal released. The raised wheel test failed.
With all that being said I would assume its the clutch itself.
I appreciate all the help thus far
rbargeron
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Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Yes, either the clutch center is broken out or the input shaft is broken near the splines. Need to split it at the front of the clutch housing. Do you plan to fix it yourself?
Yes I will be doing it myself. I have never worked on a tractor, so this should be fun. I have, however, done many clutches and transmissions on trucks. Anything I should be aware of getting into this project?
FireNHunt, it doesn't sound like you will have much of a problem with the project. It's all pretty visible, hydraulic lines, steering linkage, wiring, etc....but get a couple pieces of 1x2 wood about 4" long and lay them between the frame rails and the front axle. Actually get whatever you need to take up that space.
If you neglect those blocks when you separate the front from the transmission the front can FLOP to either side. When it does it on you the first time, you WILL remember to to prevent it from then on!
Block you rear tires, front and back. Use a floor jack under the engine area and when all things are free, just roll the jack forward a couple of feet to get the room you need.
If you neglect those blocks when you separate the front from the transmission the front can FLOP to either side. When it does it on you the first time, you WILL remember to to prevent it from then on!
Block you rear tires, front and back. Use a floor jack under the engine area and when all things are free, just roll the jack forward a couple of feet to get the room you need.
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
The 1720 loader is the non-detachable type, so it's easier to leave the whole thing attached to the tractor. See marked up pic.
To split the machine, first take down and remove the front driveshaft. The loader can remain in place, either lowered or raised and blocked with wood posts from the side rails (more working room). Drain the transmission oil, unbolt the loader's chin bar from its side rails (leave chin bar in place), take off the hood, disconnect the steering link, hydraulic supply pipes, unbolt the braces to the radiator, unplug/disconnect wires, speedo cable, etc., support both halves on rolling jacks, take out the bell housing bolts, and then roll the front half away from the rest of it. If it hasn't been apart before, you may need to drive pointed tools into the seam to get it started. The split works best on a level flat floor, and if you visualize it for a while first. Pics below are other models, done over dirt, but give the general idea.
The loader and tractor halves are heavy - so go slow, plan your moves, work safe. Post what you find in there.
Good luck, Dick B
To split the machine, first take down and remove the front driveshaft. The loader can remain in place, either lowered or raised and blocked with wood posts from the side rails (more working room). Drain the transmission oil, unbolt the loader's chin bar from its side rails (leave chin bar in place), take off the hood, disconnect the steering link, hydraulic supply pipes, unbolt the braces to the radiator, unplug/disconnect wires, speedo cable, etc., support both halves on rolling jacks, take out the bell housing bolts, and then roll the front half away from the rest of it. If it hasn't been apart before, you may need to drive pointed tools into the seam to get it started. The split works best on a level flat floor, and if you visualize it for a while first. Pics below are other models, done over dirt, but give the general idea.
The loader and tractor halves are heavy - so go slow, plan your moves, work safe. Post what you find in there.
Good luck, Dick B
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I was able to split it apart and replace the clutch. Unfortunately the old clutch looked fine, and replacement did not change anything. We opened and cleaned the flow control valve, the plunger appeared to be stuck but did not change the outcome.
I am in the process of making an adapter to test the pressures at the shuttle shift (probably what I should have done first). Oh well, live and learn.
I am in the process of making an adapter to test the pressures at the shuttle shift (probably what I should have done first). Oh well, live and learn.