L3540 Leak front driver-side axle

[The_Al]

I was putting down some millings yesterday and after I was done I noticed a large amount of oil on the driver side front tire (see picture). I assume this is a seal that needs to be replaced? Or would / could it be something else to look for?

I have seen many posts on leaks on the front axle of tractors, and as I had a leak pop-up yesterday I wanted to ask if it is okay to move the tractor or even use it any capacity before repairing? BTW I do not have a lot of hours on this tractor (~250) and is ~7years old.

I am not sure if it is related, but my rear back driver side tire almost fell off this winter when the bolts came out. I bought new official bolts and put them on, but they keep coming loose. I tighten them and five minutes of use they are loose again. I assume this means that the inner ring is warped and needs to be replaced. When I bought the tractor I heard noises from that side and I assumed it was the backhoe just moving around (as I always keep the backhoe it attached). I now wonder if that rim was a bit crooked when I bought it (new) and if there is any chance these are related or I did something to accelerate these things?

Thank you.

 

[whitetiger]

Looking at your picture, the Left Front knuckle seal has been leaking for quite some time, now it has gotten a lot worse. You can move the tractor as long as you have oil in the front axle.

Your Left Rear coming loose is because the holes in the wheel center are wallowed out from running around with loose wheel bolts. You will have to replace the wheel center and tighten them periodically. Your tractors operators manual calls for them to be retorqued every 50 hrs. With a backhoe left on, it should be more frequent.

Since you have heard a noise when it was new, did you ever find the wheel bolts loose when you checked/torqued them before?

 

[Dave_eng]

I would further suggest replacing the wheel bolts again as well as the wheel.

Their use with a damaged wheel will have damaged them in ways which are difficult to see but nevertheless very critical to securing the new wheel.

Dave

 

[The_Al]

Thank you both for your replies, very helpful.

A couple of follow-up questions:
Axle:
- Is it typical that with this amount of hours (~250hrs) that a front axle leak would occur?
- I assume if one replaces seals on one side you do the other as well in terms of the axle?
- Any idea on what I would expect for cost to have this service done?

Rear tires:
- Any idea of what one would expect to have the entire, and mid rim replaced?
- Should one use lock washers on these rims? I was not sure as the new ones ordered are slightly different, and had just regular washers.
- Some folks use Dri-Lock or similar to hold them in place. Is that suggested? If so, any suggested types?

Thank you again.

 

[Dave_eng]

Before doing anything to correct the leak, first check the oil level in the front axle by removing the two level plugs identified as #1 in the illustration.

The tractor should be on level ground when doing this.

If oil does not flow out the #1 level plugs add some until it does so you can safely continue to use the tractor as you try and find the source of the leak.

Next, check the front axle vent line to be certain is is not been blocked by certain flies or wasps which use mud to make nests in small holes or tubes.

Finally, use a stiff brush, varsol and then brake clean to get all the oily stuff off the leaking front axle so you can see where exactly the oil leak is.

If the vent has been blocked or the axle over filled you could end up with a leak which will go away once these conditions are rectified. Such leaks at low hours are not common.

If replacing seals/O rings I see no need to do both sides. I have no idea of costs.

Rear Wheel

If the loosening has been occurring between the wheel center disk and the rear axle hub, replacing both halves of the wheel would be expensive and unnecessary as the dismounting and re-mounting of the tire alone will be costly

Assuming 12.4 x 24, the cost for the center disk looks to be approx. $250.

Any washers I see associated with attaching the rim are spring type lock washers.

Use of a thread locking compound should not be necessary and may inhibit re torquing the fasteners.

As the tractor is used and surfaces mate together this action and expected wear will slightly loosening the clamping forces hence the recommended regular re-torquing.

Buy all Kubota bolts, nuts, washers etc as they will be of much better quality and have better corrosion resistance than hardware store fasteners.

Dave

 

[The_Al]

Before doing anything to correct the leak, first check the oil level in the front axle by removing the two level plugs identified as #1 in the illustration.

The tractor should be on level ground when doing this.

If oil does not flow out the #1 level plugs add some until it does so you can safely continue to use the tractor as you try and find the source of the leak.

Next, check the front axle vent line to be certain is is not been blocked by certain flies or wasps which use mud to make nests in small holes or tubes.

Finally, use a stiff brush, varsol and then brake clean to get all the oily stuff off the leaking front axle so you can see where exactly the oil leak is.

If the vent has been blocked or the axle over filled you could end up with a leak which will go away once these conditions are rectified. Such leaks at low hours are not common.

If replacing seals/O rings I see no need to do both sides. I have no idea of costs.

Rear Wheel

If the loosening has been occurring between the wheel center disk and the rear axle hub, replacing both halves of the wheel would be expensive and unnecessary as the dismounting and re-mounting of the tire alone will be costly

Assuming 12.4 x 24, the cost for the center disk looks to be approx. $250.

Any washers I see associated with attaching the rim are spring type lock washers.

Use of a thread locking compound should not be necessary and may inhibit re torquing the fasteners.

As the tractor is used and surfaces mate together this action and expected wear will slightly loosening the clamping forces hence the recommended regular re-torquing.

Buy all Kubota bolts, nuts, washers etc as they will be of much better quality and have better corrosion resistance than hardware store fasteners.

Dave

Dave,

Thank you.

I have checked the plug and the oil came out, which I assume means that things are good there. As a note this was the first time I have seen any leaks in this area as I tend to inspect the tires before using. I will clean and see if I can determine a location.

In terms of the tires, thank you for that info. I ordered through my dealer what was suggested for the new bolts, nuts, washers (although the ones I received look slightly different than what is on there already.

Thanks again for your time and this great info.

 

[The_Al]

----closing thread----

As an update, and to close this thread, both sides of the axle (L/R) did require seals to be replaced. The center rim needed to be replaced as well.

My Kubota dealer / repair shop was really great and helped me out and made the process easy.

Thanks for the help.