L2850 dt oil consumption

[sitric]

Hello from a newbie member to the site, but have been lurking for awhile. I've been around tractors and equipment all my life, and a couple months ago, bought a used L2850 dt with fel. Everything works well, but upon start up, it smoked, blue/white smoke, until temp gage came up, then quit. I had changed oil and filter when I first got it, using Rotella 15-40w. I put around 25 hours on, doing some loader, some light disking, back blade and 5' brush hogging. It has used a quart and a half of oil in this time, and the smoking seems to last longer on start up. I've read through a lot of threads, and even though it starts well, seems to have plenty of power, I am concerned as the consensus seems to be, these engines are not easily found if replacement is needed. Is this much consumption with the accompanying smoke a major concern? I haven't got a workshop manual yet, but gather that would be a place to start. Any input on what is "normal" for oil use in a tractor this old would be welcome. My old Massey to35 goes between oil changes with no consumption at all, and it is 65 years old. LOL Thanks in advance.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hello from a newbie member to the site, but have been lurking for awhile. I've been around tractors and equipment all my life, and a couple months ago, bought a used L2850 dt with fel. Everything works well, but upon start up, it smoked, blue/white smoke, until temp gage came up, then quit. I had changed oil and filter when I first got it, using Rotella 15-40w. I put around 25 hours on, doing some loader, some light disking, back blade and 5' brush hogging. It has used a quart and a half of oil in this time, and the smoking seems to last longer on start up. I've read through a lot of threads, and even though it starts well, seems to have plenty of power, I am concerned as the consensus seems to be, these engines are not easily found if replacement is needed. Is this much consumption with the accompanying smoke a major concern? I haven't got a workshop manual yet, but gather that would be a place to start. Any input on what is "normal" for oil use in a tractor this old would be welcome. My old Massey to35 goes between oil changes with no consumption at all, and it is 65 years old. LOL Thanks in advance.

Nope not normal!
More than likely it's in need of a rebuild / re-sleeve / re-ring.
But do a compression test on it first as if that is really good, may be that it just need valve seals.
Very little to anything else can cause that to happen!
Check your PM's (private messages) envelop top right .

 

[sitric]

Thank you for the quick reply. I will start with the compression check and post up how things go.

 

[Flintknapper]

As 'NIW' alluded to....it may need more but for certain your Valve Stem Seals are hardened and are allowing oil to pass by.

After the engine has sat for awhile upon shut down, oil will seep past the seals...then when started burns off in the cylinders producing the smoke you describe.

Once the engine heats up and everything expands (valve stems and pistons and rings) things probably get better but the amount of oil consumption you cite is indeed too much.

 

[sitric]

As 'NIW' alluded to....it may need more but for certain your Valve Stem Seals are hardened and are allowing oil to pass by.

After the engine has sat for awhile upon shut down, oil will seep past the seals...then when started burns off in the cylinders producing the smoke you describe.

Once the engine heats up and everything expands (valve stems and pistons and rings) things probably get better but the amount of oil consumption you cite is indeed too much.

That makes a lot of sense, as to the symptoms. Because it was a recent purchase, and I don't know it's history, the power output, ease of starting, etc. once warm, would go with what you are saying.

 

[sitric]

Diesel compression testing equipment will be tomorrow. Won't be able to test at operating temps, as I removed intake/exhaust manifolds, and hence injector lines. Going through gp fittings. Question is, should I do the 1ml oil on cylinder test also. That seems like a very small amount to measure out. Perhaps a dropper with 15-20 drops?

 

[sitric]

Ran compression test on cold engine, (30 F) and all 4 cylinders were right at 300 psi. Gauge had 20 # increments so that is as accurate as I could determine. Looks to be at bottom of recommended pressure. Surprising it starts so well, and seemingly has plenty of power. Must have been a beast when new. LOL

 

[Flintknapper]

Ran compression test on cold engine, (30 F) and all 4 cylinders were right at 300 psi. Gauge had 20 # increments so that is as accurate as I could determine. Looks to be at bottom of recommended pressure. Surprising it starts so well, and seemingly has plenty of power. Must have been a beast when new. LOL

Guidelines for compression testing:

http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB030915-1.pdf

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Surprisingly you really won't notice the HP gain when the compression is up to snuff.
You will notice better torque, and much better starting!

 

[The Evil Twin]

Diesel compression testing equipment will be tomorrow. Won't be able to test at operating temps, as I removed intake/exhaust manifolds, and hence injector lines. Going through gp fittings. Question is, should I do the 1ml oil on cylinder test also. That seems like a very small amount to measure out. Perhaps a dropper with 15-20 drops?

Now that you have a baseline (300ish) is when you would add 1 or 2 ml of 2 stroke oil to each cylinder. If your compression improves then you need rings. May as well do a top end at that point anyway. If they are all at 300 again, then you need a top end.
Either way, you don't need a new engine. You need an engine builder.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

IMHO with 300 PSI dry it really doesn't matter what the wet number is.
You need to rebuild the engine, and with the numbers that low, along with oil issue, I would plan on doing cylinder liners too.
In other words complete rebuild!

 

[sitric]

Yes, that is what I am thinking.