Went out this weekend and my L2550 wouldn't start. I've had some wiring issues in the past, but I took the alternator to a place and they by-passed the regulator (or something, can't remember the correct name). That was probably 6 months ago and I haven't had any issues since until this weekend. Won't even turn over. Tested the battery, ok. Cleaned the terminals, etc. Tried to jump it, nothing, won't even turn over. Dash lights barely come on and the headlights won't even come on. I'm not a tractor mechanic, so I'm needing suggestions in what to check out. And if you do have suggestions, please talk to me like a child. I've only had this tractor for about 1.5 years. I use it daily and need it back running again and would like to forgo paying $200 for a road call.
L2550 Not Starting
- Thread starter MBA Farm Boss
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Pull the battery out and go have it load tested, the dim lights tells me that it's got a bad cell, and even with a bad cell they usually won't jump start. 
I did that. I assumed the auto parts store I took it to was telling me the truth.Pull the battery out and go have it load tested, the dim lights tells me that it's got a bad cell, and even with a bad cell they usually won't jump start.
Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Just out of curiosity, how did they test the battery?
I use a 100amp load tester in the shop. You can get them fairly cheap. One I have is ancient but still works good. They give you an immediate pass/fail on whether or not you have a bad cell. If the voltage only drops slightly under a load. Then your battery is good.
If it drops to almost nothing, or voltage drops fairly fast and doesn't level out then the battery is bad.
The auto parts store could be right and your battery is good. You could have an issue with your battery cable also. Cables can look good, but have an issue internally in one of the terminals.
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I use a 100amp load tester in the shop. You can get them fairly cheap. One I have is ancient but still works good. They give you an immediate pass/fail on whether or not you have a bad cell.
If the voltage only drops slightly under a load. Then your battery is good. If it drops to almost nothing, or voltage drops fairly fast and doesn't level out then the battery is bad.
The auto parts store could be right and your battery is good. You could have an issue with your battery cable also. Cables can look good, but have an issue internally in one of the terminals.
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Last edited:
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Are you getting no cranking at all?
If your not, just the starter solenoid, if it cranks check PTO, Clutch safety switches, and then possibly wiring or relay from ignition switch.
If your not, just the starter solenoid, if it cranks check PTO, Clutch safety switches, and then possibly wiring or relay from ignition switch.
thedevilyoulove
Member
Equipment
L3901 HST with LA525 FEL, Land Pride RCF2572, pallet forks, 3 pt carry all
If it is an HST model, rock the HST pedal while trying to start, in case a safety on the HST is not letting the tractor start. Also make sure the PTO is off.
If you short the starter relay on the starter to the hot wire and it starts,( BE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL AND BREAK ON] behind the clutch petal there are 2 or 3, 10mm bolts that will remove the cover. behind that is a multi conductor plug that gets corroded bad the starter wire goes through there. Take it apart and clean good with contact cleaner, put some dialect grease on it.