L2501 PTO electrical switch - water?

[vanpemr]

Running an L2501 with a rear mounted snowblower. It's been a lot of snow the past week. Started having issues with the motor shutting down even though everything is disengaged AND not starting again after shutdown. It doesn't appear to be the Deadman switch; it looks like the little buttons on the PTO engage were hanging up.

I'm assuming it's a water issue as it was coated in snow/ice. Cleaned off, dried it, now I can hear both little buttons under the Spring actuator click when disengaging the PTO. Coated everything with dielectric grease and hoping.

Do these switches have water issues? Is replacement just a good idea (110 hrs)?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Get it warm and then spray the switches with WD40, try to get into cracks.
That will help drive the water out.
Typically it's the seat switch causes stalling issues.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

My 2501 doesn't have "buttons" but I was having a starting problem that was "PTO switch" related.

Long story short, I had to take it in for a speedo cable issue and told them that I had to "push" on the PTO lever to start it and that it probably needed adjusting/replacement.

When i picked it up, the service manager told me that I need to lube the connections more often because they get sticky fairly quickly and then the return spring cannot pull hard enough.

So maybe you are experiencing something similar'ish?

 

[vanpemr]

Running an L2501 with a rear mounted snowblower. It's been a lot of snow the past week. Started having issues with the motor shutting down even though everything is disengaged. It doesn't appear to be the Deadman switch; it looks like the little buttons on the PTO engage were hanging up.

I'm assuming it's a water issue as it was coated in snow/ice. Cleaned off, dried it, now I can hear both little buttons under the Spring actuator click when disengaging the PTO. Coated everything with dielectric grease and hoping.

Do these switches have water issues? Is replacement just a good idea (110 hrs)?

This is the little beastie I'm playing with (#2 in the pic). Dried out, greased temporarily, going to dig into the parts lists and find this & just replace it. The little plastic

wiring connectors were wet too so the new one is going to get something to seal those up too, like some tactically shrunk tubing
================
EDIT - yeesh, that's in two units?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

sadly 'they' are using really,really cheap mechanical switches that WILL fail. Fork out $2 and problem is solved with a SEALED switch.....

 

[vanpemr]

Think I have it.

 

[vanpemr]

sadly 'they' are using really,really cheap mechanical switches that WILL fail. Fork out $2 and problem is solved with a SEALED switch.....

GreensvilleJay - Sealed Switch? Other than what I found in the parts list, is there somewhere else to go for a better switch? Or do you mean modifying something else to work/fit?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I've designed/built energy control systems and 'proof of concepts' for about 5 decades, so I think 'outside the box'. Places like 'Digikey' have 10s of 1,000s of 'switches'..good place to start. I've used 'security / buglar alarm' switches for lots of 'problem' areas. These are 'reed relay switches' activated by magnets. Contacts are in a sealed glass tube so no dust/dirt/water affects them,come in a 1/2x1/2x1 1/2 plastic shell with 2 holes for mounting,so you'll have to figure out a mounting method that works. it's a do-it-once deal though.
As for the OEM switch, find the manufacturer of it(check case for markings...Kubota don't make them...) then see if they make a sealed equal to it. Many mfrs make 'industrial rated' versions along with the 'economy' lines.

 

[vanpemr]

GreensvilleJay -
Thank you. I'll look into those!