L2501 Clutch and seat dummy plugs
- Thread starter Walker111
- Start date
Can’t help on the clutch switch, gear drive doesn’t have one, but the seat switch I just zip tied the lever of to the harness…
Easy enough to slide it back off if there is a time you may want it to be functional though
Easy enough to slide it back off if there is a time you may want it to be functional though
Depending what type of plug it is, I have a few made up at work “for testing purposes”. Male or female spade and a short piece of wire.
This is an F mower I had to pressure wash to find a hydraulic leak. Drove it around like this.
This is an F mower I had to pressure wash to find a hydraulic leak. Drove it around like this.
I have my seat switch zip tied and after seeing @Matt Ellerbee pic I made my own jumper. I was just looking for something cleaner. I think the clutch plug will be pretty easy to find. Seatbelt might be a little harder to find.
For the clutch, just run a wire from one to the other, a jumper... no need for another plug.
For the seat, the cable going to the seat switch, I looped it over the lever on the switch.... I might take photos of it next weekend...
For the seat, the cable going to the seat switch, I looped it over the lever on the switch.... I might take photos of it next weekend...
yes, I made a jumper and have the seat switch zip tied. Just looking for a cleaner setup.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
The WSM may have a page of connectors and cryptic part numbers. I know the BX23s does, found out who MADE the connectors that way.
Oddly enough, my B, which has a sticker on it that says not to start it while standing on the ground, has no safety to prevent exactly that from occurring. But my much older L (both HST) requires that the clutch (which the B doesn’t even have) to be pushed in to crank the starter. They both shut down if the PTO is running and you get out of the seat. Same thing if the treadle is depressed without a butt in the seat.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
One might use it for troubleshooting.
I had a pocketful of "jumped connectors" when I was a mechanic. Saves tons of time.
I have no idea what the OP needs it for though.
you’ve never stood up to check clearance while moving? Or wanted to? That’s the biggest for me, but I have, plenty of times hit the pedal with my hand to get a little closer to whatever I was doing.
I understand why we have all this safety crap…because people sue company’s for their own stupidity. Luckily they looked out for the less stupid people and you only have to jump a wire to bypass it.
That's true for some models but engineers are working feverishly to prevent it being so simple. As someone mentioned above, switches often work different depending on what position other switches are in. Zip tie takes care of complicated switches but some are designed to prevent zip tying. Ambulance chasing lawyers still win lawsuits even if plaintive disabled a switch that would have prevented his injury.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
You'd have to look at your connector to see if there's any numbers on it. The seat switch connector on my B2560HSDC is a Deutsch DT04-2P on the seat side, DT06-2S on the tractor side.
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If you can talk them into putting #s on seals and bearings the next round is on me.
They already do. I haven't had too much of an issue finding seals, bearings, and u-joints.If you can talk them into putting #s on seals and bearings the next round is on me.
Just took pictures of a couple of examples-
Kubota 08101-06205
Mfg is KOYO 6205
Kubota 32430-25540
Mfg is NOK AE1375F
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Those are aftermarket replacements and bearing says made in USA. I have never been able to find numbers on seals and bearings installed during manufacturing. I find that bearings from distributor outlets are usually less than half price and often 25% of those from dealers with vehicle/machine part numbers on package,not to mention close by same day availability. Only a few months ago I had to pay a machine shop to find replacement seals because the originals had no markings and was discontinued by Kubota.
SO I ask others. Are you able to cross reference then order bearings and seals for your Kubota from NAPA ,Rock Auto and bearing dealers?
It's a Japanese bearing. The sticker you see is applied over the original sticker.
6205 / Product detail / Koyo Bearings (JTEKT)
koyo.jtekt.co.jp
Yes. I'm in the middle of rebuilding the entire front quick hitch/mid-PTO on my tractor and all of it has been aftermarket so far.
As for the 6205 bearing above, from Rock Auto-
6205 bearings are everywhere. It's an industry standard size.
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G-r-o=a-n , I've already recognized those aftermarket parts in picture have industrial #s printed on them. I'm saying industrial #s haven't been on oem parts I removed from tractors in the past. I'm not up for a pizzing contest,I just asked if the majority of people find industrial #s on oem bearings and seals installed at factory. Maybe I'm the only one to ignorant to see them or maybe you are the only one brilliant enough to see them. I've asked the general readership about it so time will tell.It's a Japanese bearing. The sticker you see is applied over the original sticker.
6205 / Product detail / Koyo Bearings (JTEKT)
View attachment 120976
Yes. I'm in the middle of rebuilding the entire front quick hitch/mid-PTO on my tractor and all of it has been aftermarket so far.
As for the 6205 bearing above, from Rock Auto-
View attachment 120979
6205 bearings are everywhere. It's an industry standard size.
Whatever. I guess I'll pretend I didn't see manufacturer markings on the parts I've replaced.
Yes, I agree there are many parts where there are no markings- mostly the custom manufactured parts. There are also many parts that have manufacturer markings. Bearings, seals, and u-joints are usually off-the-shelf parts that already exist.
Yes, I agree there are many parts where there are no markings- mostly the custom manufactured parts. There are also many parts that have manufacturer markings. Bearings, seals, and u-joints are usually off-the-shelf parts that already exist.