L245DT Starting Problems

[Mnlc90]

Bought a nice L245DT last year (Mar 2019) and it started fine. By July 2019, it wouldn't start and from my research on it, I had what I referred to as the "death click" (turn the starter switch and "click", then nothing). Bought a new starter solenoid in July 2019 because this seemed to be the recommendation on the internet and it started fine all year. Problem solved? No.

Went to start it this year (Mar 2020) and once again, got the "death click." I bought a new solenoid and will install it soon.

I understand Kubota does not make these solenoids anymore, so buying one every year seems like a bad idea.

I'm not technical, so does anyone have any suggestions on what might be going on? The solenoid was not Kubota brand, but the new one is.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Greg8352]

Old battery not at 12 volts will cause this problem. Cables not carrying full current. Check clamps and battery ground. Simply put you need volts at the starter. My l245dt has never had a new starter in 40years they are a great well built tractor.

 

[Roadworthy]

Remove the battery. Have it load tested in a battery shop. That will give you an idea of its condition and whether it will hold a proper charge. While it's out clean the terminals and the cable ends. Make sure corrosion hasn't eaten away the copper at the ends of the cable. Follow the ground wire to the frame attachment point. Make sure the connection is clean and tight. I don't recall ever replacing the starter solenoid in anything - tractor or road vehicle.

 

[GeoHorn]

I experienced a similar problem with another type of diesel equipment.

Spent lots of time and money and hard work removing/reinstalling the starters, solenoids, cables, etc over and over.... only because the relatively-new battery.... was not delivering sufficient capacity, despite it’s voltage always testing correcty.

It would run lights, blow the horn, test good voltage (13V) but ... after spending a month and several hundred dollars rebuilding starters, solenoids and new cables.... I took the relatively new battery in for testing. WalMart put a capacity tester on it and declared it good (even giving me the print-out of the test which showed good capacity)... NAPA showed the battery had 13 volts but the parts-guy at NAPA had an “attitude” telling me that the battery was “no good” because it (is a 12 volt battery that tests 13 volts ...so the battery is shot!” He got threatening when I suggested that conclusion made little sense and that we should test it for capacity.... so I left, went to AutoZone and bought the identical battery NAPA wanted $135 for (Continental brand, 900 CCA) and paid AZ $115 for it.... and that solved the starting problem completely. That has been over a year now, and still starts great.

Just sayin’.... I’ve observed batteries test good several times over the years... but a new battery solved the problems in those mysterious cases.

A battery that puts out high voltage can deliver low amperage (Volts times Amps equals Watts (the ability to do work) so as volts go up .... amps go down....and vice-versa.... so low volts will result in higher amps demand: Exactly like a welding machine, resulting in burned points and shorted/burned starter components.

Summary: Try a fresh, new, high-capacity battery and replace it before it completely dies in order to avoid failing starter components.

 

[D2Cat]

I had a non-starting problem similar to as you describe, and after doing all the checks I could think of and not finding a weak link I simply removed the starter and cleaned all the rust, dirt and crap off the starter mount and the "bell housing". Bolted the starter back on and started fine. That is a ground connection for the starter.

 

[Mnlc90]

Thank you all for the help. Sounds like I should really be looking at electrical connections as opposed to changing out parts.

I'll be going to my place this week to "recreate" (staying within the executive order) and work on my tractor.

Thank you again.
Mike

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello Mike
I would do al the above. If you still have problems send me a PM. I will send you a starter relay kit that I install on many older L series tractor with the same problems. Normally the problem is that you're not getting full battery voltage to the small wire on the solenoid. You can verify this by jumping the large battery post on the solenoid to the small terminal on the solenoid. You're bypassing the clutch safety switch. Be sure the tractor is in neutral. It will run over you. Double check that it is in neutral with the brakes locked. Good luck. Lance

 

[Russell King]

You can also take the starter into a starter repair shop and have it rebuilt or replaced. The starter on my L185 just stopped working and it had to be replaced. It starts much better with the new starter.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[davidjack]

Old battery not at 12 volts will cause this problem. Cables not carrying full current. Check clamps and battery ground. Simply put you need volts at the starter. My l245dt has never had a new starter in 40years they are a great well built tractor.

My starter shows 13 volts at the solenoid with key off. But only 2 or so volts with key on. I'm tracing a similar problem as Greg is. I'm just trying to jump it at this point to move it up to the shop