L245DT Hard Warm Start

[ranger danger]

I picked up an older L245DT. It started hard cold when I first looked at it. The temp where I live is not really cold, maybe 60-65 deg. I took it home and replaced oil and filter, fuel filter and topped off trans oil. It was hard to start again and killed the battery so I pulled the battery, charged it to full and checked it. It was a 525 CCA and was only putting out 200 CCA and the tester showed it to be bad. I replaced it with a Napa Gold 1125 CCA. Still hard to start. Takes about 30 seconds of preheat and tries to start. Then another 30 seconds of preheat and finally fires up. Exhaust shows some black/gray smoke on startup and then immediately goes away and runs well with no exhaust smoke. There seems to be a fair amount of blue/gray blow by. I let it run for about 30 minutes and tried to start it again within 2-3 minutes. Same problem, needs 30 seconds of preheat to start even when warm. I've tried this now several times with the same results. When it is running, it seams to run pretty well with good power and acceleration. No hesitation I can feel or hear. It does have a straight pipe exhaust on it now but I will be replacing that with a muffler soon. I'm thinking either an intake air leak or a fuel leak at the pump (cant find one). Any ideas?!?!?

 

[Jim L.]

I would think a couple of diagnostics to begin.

First, glow plugs working and on during pre-heat and start? Good electrical connections to all?

Second, compression readings on cold engine. Easy to do.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
If it is hard to start after warm up it is not the glow plugs. Heavy blow by would indicate warm rings. I would remove the intake hose and check the manifold for signs of dirt. If the problem is caused by dirt the rear cylinder is normally the worst. The tractor only has a single air filter setup. Not the best. Have you checked the valve clearance? Good luck
Lance

 

[ranger danger]

I have a compression gauge but I'm not sure I have the right fitting. Where is a decent place to get a compression gauge that will work on these motors and, where do you take the reading from?

 

[Jim L.]

Use the forum search using "compression gauge" with the quotation marks.

The Harbor Freight diesel compression kit seems to be a favorite. You want the adaptor for your glow plug. The glow plug comes out and the adapter goes in.

And be sure to shut down fuel when doing the test.

 

[ranger danger]

I'm going to make an assumption (bad idea!) that it is not the glow plugs because it starts hard when warm. I'm really leaning towards bad rings. A reasonably cheap way to find out is a compression check. If it is, then I will replace the glow pugs at the same time I replace the rings.

 

[Jim L.]

It's not just the glow plugs themselves. You also want to look at the power path which includes the main switch and starter switch.

And would be good to check the power going to and through the starter. A bad connection will show as a voltage drop when high current goes through it.

Anyway, compression check would show good at 470 psi.

 

[ranger danger]

It's not just the glow plugs themselves. You also want to look at the power path which includes the main switch and starter switch.



And would be good to check the power going to and through the starter. A bad connection will show as a voltage drop when high current goes through it.



Anyway, compression check would show good at 470 psi.

Ok, I made a plan. I ordered new injectors and glow plugs ($145. Total). I'll replace both and test the old ones. Ill keep anything good as spares. While I have the injectors out, I'll use my new HF compression gauge to check the pressure. That will give me a good referance point. I'll let you all know what I come up with. Thanks for all the great suggestions. As for compression. What is the acceptable range? I believe 470psi was mentioned. What's considered "as new" and what's considered acceptable low?

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[SidecarFlip]

Glad I don't live next door to you. A straight pipe on a non turbo diesel is insane loud. Worse that a Hardley with straight pipes.....

 

[ranger danger]

Glad I don't live next door to you. A straight pipe on a non turbo diesel is insane loud. Worse that a Hardley with straight pipes.....

WHAT!!??? I can't hear you!![emoji442]
It won't be straight for long. I have a muffler for it, I just haven't put it on yet.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

450 PSI perfect (new)
325 PSI low end

Anything less than low and it's going to have all sorts of issues.

 

[Dave_eng]

450 PSI perfect (new)
325 PSI low end

Anything less than low and it's going to have all sorts of issues.

A question....... would a tired engine be more likely to start on Kerosene?

Dave

 

[ranger danger]

450 PSI perfect (new)
325 PSI low end

Anything less than low and it's going to have all sorts of issues.

Great!! Thanks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

A question....... would a tired engine be more likely to start on Kerosene?

Dave

The difference between diesel and kerosene is so minor that, no, it will not help it fire.

 

[ranger danger]

Ok, bad news. I ran a compression check. #1 is 200 psi, #2 is 160 psi and #3 is 220 psi. Also, 2 out of 3 glow plugs are bad and the ends of the injectors are carbon caked. I already got new injectors and glow plugs for it but I wont be installing the injectors until after the engine repairs are done. I went ahead and put marvel mystery oil in each of the cylinders. Ill let it soak for a week and then try firing it up again. Then I'll pull the head and start figuring how much I have to do to get it up to snuff. That being said, if the head and valves don't look bad, do you think I could get away with just honed cylinders, rings and rod bearings? I know that all depends on condition but, it they mike out ok does that tend to work ok on these little diesels?

 

[Jim L.]

Just being thorough, not trying to be negative with this - decompression was disconnected or not interfering, right?

 

[ranger danger]

Just being thorough, not trying to be negative with this - decompression was disconnected or not interfering, right?

That is correct. No decompression.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ok, bad news. I ran a compression check. #1 is 200 psi, #2 is 160 psi and #3 is 220 psi. Also, 2 out of 3 glow plugs are bad and the ends of the injectors are carbon caked. I already got new injectors and glow plugs for it but I wont be installing the injectors until after the engine repairs are done. I went ahead and put marvel mystery oil in each of the cylinders. Ill let it soak for a week and then try firing it up again. Then I'll pull the head and start figuring how much I have to do to get it up to snuff. That being said, if the head and valves don't look bad, do you think I could get away with just honed cylinders, rings and rod bearings? I know that all depends on condition but, it they mike out ok does that tend to work ok on these little diesels?

I'm betting it will mic out to needing either new sleeves or oversized pistons and boring.

But yea If it mic's out under, hone and new rings and new pistons, as the old pistons will be worn too much to get a good seal on the rings.

 

[Dave_eng]

The difference between diesel and kerosene is so minor that, no, it will not help it fire.

Thanks for the answer
Dave

 

[motorhead]

Ok, bad news. I ran a compression check. #1 is 200 psi, #2 is 160 psi and #3 is 220 psi. Also, 2 out of 3 glow plugs are bad and the ends of the injectors are carbon caked. I already got new injectors and glow plugs for it but I wont be installing the injectors until after the engine repairs are done. I went ahead and put marvel mystery oil in each of the cylinders. Ill let it soak for a week and then try firing it up again. Then I'll pull the head and start figuring how much I have to do to get it up to snuff. That being said, if the head and valves don't look bad, do you think I could get away with just honed cylinders, rings and rod bearings? I know that all depends on condition but, it they mike out ok does that tend to work ok on these little diesels?

WHOA....! Yes you do have low compression. Have you checked the valve clearances yet? You could have tight valves. Check the clearances first before diving in and pulling the engine down.