Hi. Finally got filters and fluids replaced on it after sitting for 15 years and it started right up! When parked, the 3 point worked, but the PTO did not. Now, the PTO seems to be working fine (although haven't had an implement on it yet), but the 3 point will only occasionally lift. There is not power steering or a front end loader. I've played with the adjustment knob under the seat, doesn't make a difference. Any ideas what is happening or what next step in trouble shooting process should be? Thought about removing and cleaning transmission/hydraulic filter again, but not sure if it that could be problem since PTO is now working..... Thanks in advance!
l245dt 3 point not working
- Thread starter kboytown
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
The hydraulic system has nothing to do with the PTO.
I assume you mean you have NO FEL nor power steering on the tractor. Your statement could mean that you have them but they aren’t working. Please clarify what you mean.
And do you mean the 3PH was recently working or worked 15 years ago when it was parked?
I would look at the hydraulic flow path from the sump to the pump. You should be able to disconnect something to see if fluid is getting to the pump.
If fluid is getting to the pump, then you can remove the outlet hose from the top of the pump and get a few ounces into the pump to prime it. Attach the outlet pipe and see if that fixes it. If not fixed, then remove something on the pump outlet and see if the pump is actually pumping. Actually you can start with that check first to eliminate the first two suggestions!
If you have flow out of the pump, it is probably the three point piston that needs to be repaired. Hone cylinder and replace the o-ring?
I assume you mean you have NO FEL nor power steering on the tractor. Your statement could mean that you have them but they aren’t working. Please clarify what you mean.
And do you mean the 3PH was recently working or worked 15 years ago when it was parked?
I would look at the hydraulic flow path from the sump to the pump. You should be able to disconnect something to see if fluid is getting to the pump.
If fluid is getting to the pump, then you can remove the outlet hose from the top of the pump and get a few ounces into the pump to prime it. Attach the outlet pipe and see if that fixes it. If not fixed, then remove something on the pump outlet and see if the pump is actually pumping. Actually you can start with that check first to eliminate the first two suggestions!
If you have flow out of the pump, it is probably the three point piston that needs to be repaired. Hone cylinder and replace the o-ring?
North Idaho Wolfman
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Yea like @Russell King said the Hydraulic system has nothing to do with PTO operation on that tractor, it's purely a mechanical system to engage it.
If the screen (and in this case) the filter are plugged it will not let the pump pull fluid.
What fluid did you use?
If the screen (and in this case) the filter are plugged it will not let the pump pull fluid.
What fluid did you use?
Tractor does not have power steering or front end loader on it. The 3 point worked fine, but not the PTO when parked 15 yrs ago. Was told that the hydraulic/transmission filter could be clogged, which wouldn't allow the PTO to work. When a new one was installed with new hydraulic/transmission fluid (instead of SAE 80), the PTO began to work again. I don't really understand how it works entirely, but will try to track down some schematics to find the pump.... it looks to me like everything is internal in the case? but will look closer and see if I can make some sense of it. Thanks!
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
The hydraulic pump is external as is the piping to and from it.
You can find illustrated parts list at the site below or at messicks
apps.kubotausa.com
Here is the hydraulics for your tractor. Your inlet is on top and the outlet is on the bottom of the pump. So I had that backwards above.
There may be a filter for the hydraulics but there may only be a screen that is shown here. It is internal to the sump but comes out the side of the tractor on the opposite side from the pipe shown above.
If you post some pictures of your tractor we will highlight the items you need to investigate.
Since the tractor hasn’t been used in 15 years, I would suggest that the screen needs attention if you did not clean it yourself when you changed the fluid. You can drain the fluid into clean containers and reuse the new fluid.
What did the fluid look like when you drained it?
You can find illustrated parts list at the site below or at messicks
Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List
- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams
Here is the hydraulics for your tractor. Your inlet is on top and the outlet is on the bottom of the pump. So I had that backwards above.
There may be a filter for the hydraulics but there may only be a screen that is shown here. It is internal to the sump but comes out the side of the tractor on the opposite side from the pipe shown above.
If you post some pictures of your tractor we will highlight the items you need to investigate.
Since the tractor hasn’t been used in 15 years, I would suggest that the screen needs attention if you did not clean it yourself when you changed the fluid. You can drain the fluid into clean containers and reuse the new fluid.
What did the fluid look like when you drained it?
Thanks for the schematics. The hydraulic/trans fluid filter was changed. Definitely had some small metal flakes and fluid needed replacing, but wasnt as bad as I thought it was going to be. Here are some pics of the tractor
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Here is the hydraulic pump in yellow, hydraulic outlet pipe is red, inlet pipe is blue. F is the fuel filter, O is engine oil filter. What is the green thing for?
Red is other end of the pump outlet (high pressure). Green is confusing possibly. It could just be a high pressure test point. But I recently learned that there was a replacement block that goes there to power a valve with hydraulic pressure. But that block diverts the flow path to the three point. Is there also a plug at the back side of the block? The yellow is the three point feed back linkage. Is it connected at both ends so the control valve knows where the arms are positioned?
Green is where the hydraulic filter screen can be removed. There is an o-ring sealing that cap. There are two bolts holding the cap on. Red ?? is just a beach towel I guess but it jumped out in that zoomed in picture!
Red is other end of the pump outlet (high pressure). Green is confusing possibly. It could just be a high pressure test point. But I recently learned that there was a replacement block that goes there to power a valve with hydraulic pressure. But that block diverts the flow path to the three point. Is there also a plug at the back side of the block? The yellow is the three point feed back linkage. Is it connected at both ends so the control valve knows where the arms are positioned?
Green is where the hydraulic filter screen can be removed. There is an o-ring sealing that cap. There are two bolts holding the cap on. Red ?? is just a beach towel I guess but it jumped out in that zoomed in picture!
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I think I would remove the GREEN highlighted plug and crank the tractor but don’t start it. You may want to rig up something to catch any oil that comes out by laying a towel under it as you remove the plug some should dribble out. When cranking engine more oil should come out under some pressure so place a rag over the opening where the plug was, hold it in place with a stick or board not you bare hand.
Safety alert - hydraulic fluid can be injected through your skin and that is hard to get out. So wear eye protection and leather gloves when working on hydraulic equipment when it is pressurized!
Tell us what you find out.
Safety alert - hydraulic fluid can be injected through your skin and that is hard to get out. So wear eye protection and leather gloves when working on hydraulic equipment when it is pressurized!
Tell us what you find out.
Color coding! I love it! Anything to help simplify things is much appreciated. The box if leftover from an above ground pool.... hope it didn't get anyone on a tractor forum too excited. 
Not sure what the big green bracket on the left side was used for, was hoping you guys could tell me that....
There are 4 electrical lines at the back that aren't hooked up to anything. I can't imagine that's related to my issue, but who knows? I'd guess maybe there was a safety switch under the seat and/or flashing lights on the rear fenders at one point in time???
I'll go look at the things you pointed out tonight and get back to you. Thanks again!
Not sure what the big green bracket on the left side was used for, was hoping you guys could tell me that....
There are 4 electrical lines at the back that aren't hooked up to anything. I can't imagine that's related to my issue, but who knows? I'd guess maybe there was a safety switch under the seat and/or flashing lights on the rear fenders at one point in time???
I'll go look at the things you pointed out tonight and get back to you. Thanks again!
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Those wires are for rear lights and stuff. They have nothing to do with anything on the PTO or the three point hitch. There is a schematic in this thread, post #26. Same as my L185 so if you have any questions about the wiring I understand it pretty well.
www.orangetractortalks.com
That green bracket looks like a custom part, maybe to keep saplings from slapping the driver or getting caught by the fender?? Is there a matching one on the other side?
And that is the filter screen that I was asking about if you cleaned it. So I will assume that it is clean now and not worry about it being plugged up now!
Electrical - Wiring Diagrams
Hi I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a B2150. Big thanks in advance if anyone can share.
www.orangetractortalks.com
That green bracket looks like a custom part, maybe to keep saplings from slapping the driver or getting caught by the fender?? Is there a matching one on the other side?
And that is the filter screen that I was asking about if you cleaned it. So I will assume that it is clean now and not worry about it being plugged up now!
North Idaho Wolfman
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You probably have cavitated and vapor locked the pump, it happens with older pumps.
Make sure the knob it turned CCW and remove one of the green plugs (below) , put a bucket or at least a rag in front of the holes, with the tractor running work the control lever slowly till you get fluid flow.
Make sure the knob it turned CCW and remove one of the green plugs (below) , put a bucket or at least a rag in front of the holes, with the tractor running work the control lever slowly till you get fluid flow.
Ok, finally got a chance to look at things in greater detail. Removed this plug highlighted in green:
@northIdahowolfman: Is this one of the plugs you were talking about? Or were you talking about the plug holding the hydraulic/trans mesh filter?
Initially nothing came out, either while cranking or while it was running. I then cleaned out what I think is a vent, looks like an upside down hook. Opened the plug and fluid came out and then pulsed with a pretty good flow once tractor was cranked and running. Oh also removed plug on the backside of that same block and fluid flowed out. After doing this the 3 point started to work. I thought it had magically been fixed, but then after about a minute it stopped working and the 3 point and lever would flop all the way down.
Not sure if there is something else I am missing? Can I assume that the trans/hydraulic screen filter is good since fluid is flowing? Maybe it's not high pressure enough and I should remove and clean (even though it is new....)?
@Russell King: The linkages appear to be connected, I'll get a photo posted here shortly.
There is what looks like another plug on the backside of the one that was highlighted in green, i'll post a pic of that too.
Can I assume that there is no need to remove the input and/or output lines to the pump to make sure fluid is flowing since it came out of that plug by the seat? If they should still be removed and checked, should this be done w/ tractor off or running?
Thanks so much for you help and patience while a mechanical moron tries to figure this out....
@northIdahowolfman: Is this one of the plugs you were talking about? Or were you talking about the plug holding the hydraulic/trans mesh filter?
Initially nothing came out, either while cranking or while it was running. I then cleaned out what I think is a vent, looks like an upside down hook. Opened the plug and fluid came out and then pulsed with a pretty good flow once tractor was cranked and running. Oh also removed plug on the backside of that same block and fluid flowed out. After doing this the 3 point started to work. I thought it had magically been fixed, but then after about a minute it stopped working and the 3 point and lever would flop all the way down.
Not sure if there is something else I am missing? Can I assume that the trans/hydraulic screen filter is good since fluid is flowing? Maybe it's not high pressure enough and I should remove and clean (even though it is new....)?
@Russell King: The linkages appear to be connected, I'll get a photo posted here shortly.
There is what looks like another plug on the backside of the one that was highlighted in green, i'll post a pic of that too.
Can I assume that there is no need to remove the input and/or output lines to the pump to make sure fluid is flowing since it came out of that plug by the seat? If they should still be removed and checked, should this be done w/ tractor off or running?
Thanks so much for you help and patience while a mechanical moron tries to figure this out....
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
If you hold the lever in the position does the three point raise?
Then when you left off the lever falls and then the three point goes down?
If this is the scenario then you really have nothing more than a loose lever hold adjustment.
Use 2 wrenches and loosen these 2 nuts on the inside of the lever.
Holding the lever tighten up the inside nut moving the lever to check for resistance.
Once adjusted, to proper tension, hold the inside nut and lock the outside nut down to it.
Then when you left off the lever falls and then the three point goes down?
If this is the scenario then you really have nothing more than a loose lever hold adjustment.
Use 2 wrenches and loosen these 2 nuts on the inside of the lever.
Holding the lever tighten up the inside nut moving the lever to check for resistance.
Once adjusted, to proper tension, hold the inside nut and lock the outside nut down to it.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Yes that is the vent that looks like a question mark on its side. Did you remove the vent to clean it? Did you clean out the case hole to be sure it was clean? You can also remove the fill plug to vent the sump well for test purposes but don’t leave it open all the time, just for testing purposes.
YES you can assume you have good flow now unless it continues to not work! You don’t need to remove the plugs if it is working. I am not sure what plug @North Idaho Wolfman meant to show in his previous post, so won’t guess on that. You can send him a direct message and he may answer your question. Or just ask him again if it isn’t working after you adjust the lever.
Do what is suggested above and make sure that the lever is actually turning the round rod into the tractor case. The roll pin may have sheared off.
The linkages that you show for the feedback rod appear to be correct. You may want to move those wires out of the pinch point of the linkage just to be sure the linkage can move easily.
YES you can assume you have good flow now unless it continues to not work! You don’t need to remove the plugs if it is working. I am not sure what plug @North Idaho Wolfman meant to show in his previous post, so won’t guess on that. You can send him a direct message and he may answer your question. Or just ask him again if it isn’t working after you adjust the lever.
Do what is suggested above and make sure that the lever is actually turning the round rod into the tractor case. The roll pin may have sheared off.
The linkages that you show for the feedback rod appear to be correct. You may want to move those wires out of the pinch point of the linkage just to be sure the linkage can move easily.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Sorry didn't realize that the edited pic didn't post, these 2 green plugs.
That would tell you if fluid is getting to the three point cylinder when you raise it.
That would tell you if fluid is getting to the three point cylinder when you raise it.