L175 Steering Gearbox Rebuild

[Doug]

Okay my steering box gave out... Lucky for me it had enough left to get it into the barn. Removal of the steering wheel, console, fuel tank then removing the gearbox was not so bad. Lucky for me my neighbor had a steering wheel puller as well as a pitman puller. Both of these are (almost) a must IMO. Disassembling the gearbox I found about 3/4 cup of water which must of had something to do with the failure as well as a worn steering column bushing under the steering wheel. Also had just about every ball bearing from the upper and lower ends rolling around in the bottom of the case.. lucky for me I still had some in the worm tubes or would have had to drag it to the barn somehow. So I have it all broke down now.. the shaft is gouged along the worm area where the ball bearings travel. The teeth on my horizontal shaft seem fine and my case is not cracked so now onto my question>>>
What parts do I need to order to rebuild this thing? Here is what I think I need and just wondering what I am missing besides the 80w-90w gear oil and the 6 pack of my favorite brew

1 Steering Shaft With Ball Nut Assy
Selector Shaft Gasket
Upper & Lower Bearings
Horizontal Shaft Seal
4-5 Shims
New Woodruff Key
Steering Column Bushing

That's all I can think of.. anything else I might need I did not see in my IPB? Does anyone (Vic) make a packaged rebuild kit for this repair or do I have to order it all separate? And Vic if you want to shoot me a cost invoice so I can start saving please go ahead and do that

Any other advice or thoughts before putting this back together would be nice. Taking pictures along the way and may post after I am finished.

 

[Orange Tractors]

Doug,

Sounds like you are in both better and worse shape than mine was--your case isn't cracked, but my ball nut assy was reuseable.

Be sitting down when you price this: Steering Shaft With Ball Nut Assy.

My worm tubes were pretty crunched after years of banging around with a partial set of bearings, but the shaft was in good shape; so I spent most of an afternoon reshaping the tubes.

You also need a seal that is directly above the upper bearing, in the column tube. It sets just below the almost nonexistant weep hole.

Since you are going to be replacing the steering shaft assy, I would get variety of shims; I didn't need any because I reused all of the internals on my steering box.

If you haven't taken the lower race out yet, I recommend lots of penetrating oil and heat.

If you have any other questions, ask.


Robert

 

[Doug]

Thanks for the help Robert, I did not even think of the seal above the weep hole... good catch. Tomorrow I am going to "attempt" to remove the bearing races... before the NASCAR race in the afternoon Looking over Vic's video a few times.. wish he would make the next chapter (hint) on this rebuild. His videos are very informative. I did find a website with good rebuild instructions and Videos for a "Grey Model" box that looks identical to my box (I hope) at this LINK and it should help the process. They also have a rebuild kit and seems to be the exact parts I need even though it is for a Yanmar 1500. I was hoping Vic would have one for my L175 but have not heard from him yet. My local Kubota dealer is open Tuesday and going to price check the parts on Tuesday so hopefully I can get this job done as I need some tractor time soon

 

[Orange Tractors]

There used to be a website for newlands groundcare in England that had a good desription of rebuilding Kubota steering boxes. I just looked and couldn't find it, but your link has the basics; except there isn't a brass gear in your L175. I think I would get the parts from Kubota, the prices are very close. You should be able to get all the parts for yours for right around $200. I think parts and shipping for mine was $48.00.

To get the lower race out of mine I used 1/4 and 5/16" carriage head bolts as a prying tool, with a deepwell socket and 1/4" extension over the bolt for a handle. There isn't much room to work. Carraige head bolts are softer than bubble gum, so be sure to have a few on hand if you try this. I used a lot of penetrating oil and heated the case with a propane torch. The safety nazi's will not like this, but I got the oil hot enough to boil; if you have to do that make sure you have a way to put the fire out.

I was going to replace the case, (it had about 5-6" of cracks caused by freezing water)until I started pricing them. The least expensive one I could find was right at $200.00, with no garantee that my parts would fit in it, so I decided to try to fix the cracks in mine. JB weld to the rescue.

I got my parts from Coleman equipment, they're close to home. The parts guy told me the steering shaft and ballnut had been discontinued, and there were eight in the system still. This was earlier this year.

I always thought Vic was crazy when he said the L175 steered light as a feather; mine took two men and a boy to turn it. Then I rebuilt mine, now it steers almost as easy as a riding mower.

I'm sure I've forgotten something, if you type in L175 steering in the search box, it should bring up several posts about doing this.

Robert

 

[sambo30]

Doug,

Here are a couple of places where I have gotten parts when I was rebuilding my L245DT steering.

Weavers Compact Tractor - Steering shaft with ball nut attached
http://www.compactractorparts.com/index.shtml

Messicks Tractor parts
http://www.messicks.com/KubotaTractorParts.aspx

Coleman (Local for me as well) Tractor parts
http://www.colemanequip.com/

Don't forget to get the oil seal that goes on top of the steering shaft tube. It is the first line of defense from getting water in that assy.

 

[Doug]

Thank's for the info Robert and Scott.. great help. I have my parts now and ready to rebuild. Only real question I cannot figure out is what direction to put the steering column seal in, I am guessing I put it in with the open/spring side facing the gearbox... the only reason I ask is if I was to reverse the direction would it prevent water seepage into the case and out the weep hole? Cant seem to get a answer on this one. The selector shaft seal I am certain the open/spring faces the gearbox. Is this correct?

Thank's again

Yes, the bearing races were a PITA and did take "much" heat to be able to free them.

 

[Orange Tractors]

Mine originally had the spring side of the seal towards the gearbox. That is the way that I installed the new one, too.

Those seals should probably be double sided, to keep the gear oil in and the rain water seepage out, but if the weep hole isn't plugged; they shouldn't get enough water standing on them to cause problems. Of course if the tractor is always in the shed when it rains, there won't be problems either.

Robert

 

[sambo30]

On my 245, the steering shaft seal went only one way, spring facing the st. wheel. It has a recess in it for the shaft tube to fit into. Your's must be different. Don't know about the selector shaft seal, I didn't have to fix mine.

 

[Doug]

Hmmm, keep the oil in the case and the water out or the other way around? It seems on the L175 you can put it in either way. Yes, that weep hole is on my "service check list" from now on. When I got the tractor last year the hole was plugged and when I opened it up last November it had water come out. Before I got the L175 it was parked out in my dad's back fourty not being used for a few years as he "upgraded" to a L2550. Well now it is always parked after use in my pole barn so the rain/snow should not be a problem then. Always wondered why the steering was really stiff in the mornings... must have been the ice in the case.. lucky for me it was not full enough to crack the case like Roberts. Scott, on my column there is a detent also for the seal but you can install it up or down. Since I also got a new upper steering column bushing and that Yanmar steering wheel which extends over the column plus keeping my weep hole open hopefully I wont have a water seepage problem while I am alive. I guess I am going to go with Roberts spring side of the seal towards the gearbox just like the Horizontal Shaft Seal was "UNLESS" someone knows a difinitive answer.

Thank's to both of you guys for the information you provided. For anyone else so far this has not been to bad of a job. I have about $215 USD invested in parts for the repair for those wondering.. a new/rebuild is double that price and more from what I have found. Let you know how it goes when I tackle the assembly tomorrow afternoon. Thank's again for the advice and help!!!

 

[prevostna]

there are a few good videos out on Utube about rebuilding a Kubota Steering box. Just search for it and you'll see a video with VICK.

 

[Doug]

Welcome to the forum prevostna!!! Yes, the video's were helpful for the dis assembly. I watched the ones from Vic and also the video and instructions from Hoye tractor (Yanmar) as well. Vic is really busy and not sure he will ever get to Part 2 of the video for the reassembly. None of the videos or instructions cover the direction of the upper seal near the weep hole..

Again, "Welcome" you will find lots of very informative and useful info here at OrangeTractorTalks.com

 

[Doug]

One L175 back in good running condition plus a new exhaust too!!! Back to "Tractor Time" fun again

 

[Orange Tractors]

Good deal Doug.

I am waiting on radiator hoses for mine, it had the original fabric covered ones on it and the bottom one blew out the last time I used the tractor.


Robert

 

[Doug]

I replaced my lower hose also when I added a Inline Block Heater. When it's really cold it really helps in the winter.

BTW, here are a few of the pictures I took along the way of my gearbox rebuild. Clicking on a picture will open a new window to my photobucket album and larger pictures. I think I got it right.

 

[aquaforce]

BTW, here are a few of the pictures I took along the way of my gearbox rebuild.

That was close and just in the nick of time.

I was just about to ask where the PICS were????



Good job