L1500 coolant replacement

[xmikew]

Went to go drain the radiator in the L1500 to replace it with actual antifreeze 50/50, and saw the petcock right above the right side frame where nearly impossibly to not drain into the frame.

I remember reading a post on here about someone complaining about the same thing but for the life of me cannot find it. I think one of the regulars like Daren Todd had a suggestion for making it easier. Seems like I need some kind of right angle diverter to put on there and am looking for ideas. My idea thus far was to wedge a spade in there as a make shift diverter into a bucket

Also, i'm soaking the petcock because i could not turn it. It also appears to have a cotter pin on the petcock? Do i have to remove the cotter pin? Seemed strange. Wasn't sure if the thing was just rusted closed or I have to try to get soemone with tiny hands to try to remove the cotter pin in the impossible location.

Also, once I drain the radiator is it proper to also drain the block using the petcock on the right side of the engine? The manual's i have do not indicate proper procedures for coolant replacement, presumably because it is too easy, just technical details about how the cooling system operates.

Thanks for any advice!

- Mike

 

[D2Cat]

Mike, this might work for you and you can use it for other purposes also.

I even saw them in Coleman's last time I was there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Form-a-Funn...393967?hash=item51faf0286f:g:hE8AAOSwSv1XlT0W

 

[xmikew]

Mike, this might work for you and you can use it for other purposes also.



I even saw them in Coleman's last time I was there.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Form-a-Funn...393967?hash=item51faf0286f:g:hE8AAOSwSv1XlT0W

Yea i like that! That gives me a cheaper idea. My son has some air dry clay. I think I'll try that as a diverter!

Thanks for the idea! I bet a little parchment paper and duct tape might work too.

 

[Dave_eng]

Went to go drain the radiator in the L1500 to replace it with actual antifreeze 50/50, and saw the petcock right above the right side frame where nearly impossibly to not drain into the frame.

I remember reading a post on here about someone complaining about the same thing but for the life of me cannot find it. I think one of the regulars like Daren Todd had a suggestion for making it easier. Seems like I need some kind of right angle diverter to put on there and am looking for ideas. My idea thus far was to wedge a spade in there as a make shift diverter into a bucket

Also, i'm soaking the petcock because i could not turn it. It also appears to have a cotter pin on the petcock? Do i have to remove the cotter pin? Seemed strange. Wasn't sure if the thing was just rusted closed or I have to try to get soemone with tiny hands to try to remove the cotter pin in the impossible location.

Also, once I drain the radiator is it proper to also drain the block using the petcock on the right side of the engine? The manual's i have do not indicate proper procedures for coolant replacement, presumably because it is too easy, just technical details about how the cooling system operates.

Thanks for any advice!

- Mike

Mike
The cotter pin does not have to be removed. You may find a small spring being retained by the cotter pin. You have a tapered plug valve and the spring and cotter pin are keeping the tapered plug seated to seal better. For small valves you don't see this style much anymore. Natural gas and propane piping systems used them for a while. I think they sealed more completely than the available alternatives at the time.

If you cannot get the valve handle to turn without thinking you will break it I would unscrew the entire valve from the block.

In many parts of the world people cannot afford antifreeze and must drain the rad and block every night when it gets around freezing.

In the same parts of the world people cannot afford batteries and spring wound starters are used. You crank the starter spring and then push a lever. Cranks engine very fast.

You don't want to break the valve off with some remaining in the engine block.

Most automotive shops have an assortment of brass fittings. If you got an elbow with a male thread on one end, to screw into the block and a female thread on the other end to accept a barbed hose fitting this would get you away from the cramped space. These elbows to be technical are called "Street Elbows." Do not use galvanized steel of iron fittings just brass or stainless steel.

To do a very good job of draining the cooling system you don't have to drain the block. Any liquid remaining in the block will be small and completely diluted by the new coolant.

Dave M7040

 

[xmikew]

Mike

The cotter pin does not have to be removed. You may find a small spring being retained by the cotter pin. You have a tapered plug valve and the spring and cotter pin are keeping the tapered plug seated to seal better. For small valves you don't see this style much anymore. Natural gas and propane piping systems used them for a while. I think they sealed more completely than the available alternatives at the time.



If you cannot get the valve handle to turn without thinking you will break it I would unscrew the entire valve from the block.



In many parts of the world people cannot afford antifreeze and must drain the rad and block every night when it gets around freezing.



In the same parts of the world people cannot afford batteries and spring wound starters are used. You crank the starter spring and then push a lever. Cranks engine very fast.



You don't want to break the valve off with some remaining in the engine block.



Most automotive shops have an assortment of brass fittings. If you got an elbow with a male thread on one end, to screw into the block and a female thread on the other end to accept a barbed hose fitting this would get you away from the cramped space. These elbows to be technical are called "Street Elbows." Do not use galvanized steel of iron fittings just brass or stainless steel.



To do a very good job of draining the cooling system you don't have to drain the block. Any liquid remaining in the block will be small and completely diluted by the new coolant.



Dave M7040

Dave,

Thanks for the wealth of information. Good stuff. Going to try draining tomorrow again. The drain is pretty rusty so worried about breaking it. I guess if I break the drain petcock I'll replace with a brass 90 like you mention if I can unscrew it without breaking the radiator. . If I break the radiator I guess I'll cry.

My funnel is dry so we'll see how it works out! Thanks.

 

[Dave_eng]

If the rad is old style brass tanks, then rad repair places can work wonders if you break off the drain.

Dave M7040