Hi, I've got a L3650 with Everclutch. Driving it yesterday the clutch peddle went straight to the ground without disengaging anything when I went to use the clutch. Previously had no issues with it. Not sure what the best steps are for trouble shooting it or did I just blow my clutch? Any suggestions or advice on trouble shooting to find out what my issue is? I'm hoping my issue is smaller than replacing my clutch. Thanks
L 3650 clutch
- Thread starter csilks
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rbargeron
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L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
The Ever Clutch itself is a multi disk stack (really 2 stacks, one for forward one for reverse) and I've never heard of the whole thing "going out" or being "blown" and needing replacement. It's much more likely there is a valve issue or hydraulic oil pressure supply issue causing the Everclutch to fail to pressurize and perform its function.
The first place I'd look for something disconnected or damaged is the area of the "clutch and shuttle control valve" under the left floorboard. WORK SAFE - With engine at low rpm, set one brake hard, Jack up the other rear wheel, take it out of 4wd, try operating the shuttle linkage, manipulate the valve and listen/look for what the free tire does or doesn't do.
I have a WSM that covers the EC in the L3 size machines, but the WSM for your model may have more pertinent troubleshooting. Best luck, Dick B.
The first place I'd look for something disconnected or damaged is the area of the "clutch and shuttle control valve" under the left floorboard. WORK SAFE - With engine at low rpm, set one brake hard, Jack up the other rear wheel, take it out of 4wd, try operating the shuttle linkage, manipulate the valve and listen/look for what the free tire does or doesn't do.
I have a WSM that covers the EC in the L3 size machines, but the WSM for your model may have more pertinent troubleshooting. Best luck, Dick B.
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Thanks for the advice.
I can look at what's under the left floorboard from underneath and there's no valve there. I can see the where the clutch pedal mechanically moves a lever that goes up into a place I can't see to the side and below the left side of the instrument panel. I'm guessing I'll have to remove the metal on the left side just to be able to see where that lever goes and what it's attached to. Maybe below the instrument panel as well?
I'm not noticing any hydraulic pressure issue with the loader but that might not be related to my issue. I'm able to move the forward backwards shuttle, through the gears and the slow or fast lever with the tractor not running. so it's not stuck in a gear or position. I'm just not able to engage the clutch. It goes straight to the floorboard without doing anything.
I'm not familiar with this system and am not really sure what I'm looking for. At least having my eyes seeing what the clutch lever attaches to might help. I'll see if I can look up a schematic on line for it as well.
North Idaho Wolfman
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That model has a mechanically engaged and disengaged wet clutch pack.
Check that the lever (10) on the side moves with the pedal, and that the center shaft rotates ( I've seen them break at the weld).
If it all does move then the problem is internal and will need to be split to find what's going on inside.
By the description of the problem sounds like a linkage or fork failure.
Check the linkage completely, as it's very complicated on that model.
Check that the lever (10) on the side moves with the pedal, and that the center shaft rotates ( I've seen them break at the weld).
If it all does move then the problem is internal and will need to be split to find what's going on inside.
By the description of the problem sounds like a linkage or fork failure.
Check the linkage completely, as it's very complicated on that model.
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Thanks, that's helpful. I'm crossing my fingers that it will be a simple fix................
rbargeron
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L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
I realize now that your L3650's "ever clutch" is a different design than on the L4850 and L5450 models. The lever you see going up behind the sheet metal is the clutch fork shaft operating lever. I'm afraid I'm not much help on this one - sorry. The good news is Wolfman is on the case ! Dick B.
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Thanks Dick B, no worries, always glad for forum advice.
Following up on Wolfman's input, thank you Wolfman, exposed everything external and the lever moves and center shaft rotates. Adjusted clutch play to see if that made a difference. No surprise, it didn't, but was the only other external thing I could think to try. Unfortunately, I agree, linkage or fork failure is most likely culprit.
I'm surprised, as despite the manufacture year (1991), the tractor only has 1550 hours on it. However, I've only put 50 hours on it since buying it. I have no idea how it was used before I bought it and am at least the third owner.
My situation doesn't have the shop, tools or conditions to split a tractor apart for an internal fix. Any ball parks or recommendations on what fixing this would cost at a dealership? Closest one to me is 70 miles away and is probably my only option at this point.
Thanks
rbargeron
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L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Guessing here, but the parts diagram shows a priority valve 200 on top of the main hydraulic pump that sends pressurized oil to a port on the trans - not sure what then directs it to the clutch pack but if there's restricted or no flow from the priority valve, there might be no clutch action. Its not unheard of for a plugged priority valve to stop the show.
Its something you can check without splitting the machine. Unbolt the priority valve and see if you can clean/disassemble check for debris, check for binding etc. If you find skudge in there, the machine may just be way overdue for hydraulic fluid and filter change. Best luck - Dick B.
Its something you can check without splitting the machine. Unbolt the priority valve and see if you can clean/disassemble check for debris, check for binding etc. If you find skudge in there, the machine may just be way overdue for hydraulic fluid and filter change. Best luck - Dick B.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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I'm going to give you some BAD news!
#1 Most dealerships have no clue how that clutch system works
#2 Parts for that system are 99% obsolete, so if there is broken parts you would have to try and find good used parts, which a dealer probably wouldn't do.
Call around to some independent tractor/equipment repair shops, you'll get a better rate and they will maybe have good luck.
#1 Most dealerships have no clue how that clutch system works
#2 Parts for that system are 99% obsolete, so if there is broken parts you would have to try and find good used parts, which a dealer probably wouldn't do.
Call around to some independent tractor/equipment repair shops, you'll get a better rate and they will maybe have good luck.
Thanks, I'll check that, at least I can check that before splitting the tractor.
Talked with the nearest Kubota dealer today. The service guy heard the situation and what I've done. His guess was maybe a throw out bearing issue internally. His labor guesstimate for splitting the tractor to see the issue was two grand. Didn't think to ask was that two grand for putting it back together also?. If so, any thoughts or comments on whether 4 grand is reasonable for that? Add parts and labor to then fix the issue, tax and tractor hauling, wow.! A clutch issue gets real expensive real quick.
Any thoughts or comments on this are welcome.
thanks
rbargeron
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L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Well I'm told that the clutch in the L3650 WET is fed oil from the priority valve, but only for cooling, not for disengaging it. Unlike most Kubota wet clutches, there is no control valve. (That fact is borne out by the parts diagrams for the model). To make matters worse, Kubota appears to have abandoned the model - dealers can't order manuals or parts.
The clutch pack has heavy internal spring discs that keep it engaged for driving. That function is apparently working ok. The parts inside that disengage it are the problem. If you aren't in a position to work on it yourself a local independent ag repair shop may be the only answer. If you were closer - or knew a trucker who would drop it off in MA I'd tackle it myself out of sympathy for this orphan. Again, sorry I'm not more help. Dick B.
The clutch pack has heavy internal spring discs that keep it engaged for driving. That function is apparently working ok. The parts inside that disengage it are the problem. If you aren't in a position to work on it yourself a local independent ag repair shop may be the only answer. If you were closer - or knew a trucker who would drop it off in MA I'd tackle it myself out of sympathy for this orphan. Again, sorry I'm not more help. Dick B.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Kind of proved my point about dealers having no clue about that clutch, There is no throw out bearing!
Before you toss $2k away in the wind, ask the dealer for a Print out showing the " throw out bearing" he's going to "replace"!
I ended up going to the closest Kubota dealer to work on it. Not really any other options nearby and independent guys were booked out close to two months.
Ended up spending about $2100 bucks. Here's what they said they found and did regarding the clutch:
Removed clutch, found that the clutch throwout bearing collar had somehow turned and the clutch fork could no longer pull the collar back. Checked condition of the clutch plates, they were in good shape. Installed clutch and clutch cover with new seals. Assembled unit, tried adjusting clutch freeplay could not get it to adjust right. Checked linkage, found quite a bit of play. New linkage parts and clutch lever parts are no longer available from Kubota. Removed linkage and repaired as needed. Adjusted clutch free play.
I have no idea what they mean by the throwout bearing collar had somehow turned? This thread has said there isn't even a throwout bearing! I believe the guys working on it didn't have a clue about everclutches.
When I got the tractor back, the clutch is again working. There's a new problem though. When the clutch is out/engaged (pedal not pushed down) there is a very loud vibration noise coming from the internal clutch or clutch plate area. That noise was not happening before it was worked on. The noise happens when everything is in neutral (gears, shuttle and slow / fast lever) The noise goes away once the clutch is pushed in approximately a third of the way or the engine rpm's are bumped up some. However in neutral and idling its loud. Obviously something is loose or vibrating or possible metal on metal ? It shouldn't be making any noise of that nature while just idling. Something clearly is not right.
I'm guessing something is loose or wasn't reassembled correctly. I have driven it around and done some loader work with the tractor. The clutch is working fine and I don't hear the noise while running it for the most part. I attribute that to being at higher RPM's. That noise will occasionally happen when I'm running the tractor in gear if I'm not giving it any gas.
Does anyone have any thoughts or theories on this?
One more thing to add, when I depress the clutch to disengage the gear now the tractor quickly comes to a stop like there is a brake on. It doesn't roll like its just out of gear. I'm wondering it there is a clutch brake that might be an issue or source of the noise I'm hearing and have previously described?