Kubota M7060 FEL control lever stuck

[CrimsonClay]

It is really odd that both are stuck pulled????
Pull the pins and see if the spools move or if the cable moves.
Follow the cables back to the control looking for damage.

Pulled the pins and the spools (circled on pic) spin pretty easily with the use of a flat head.
The ends of the cables move when wiggled. I will remove the plastic housing and check the cables.

Btw, it’s a hydrostatic, the pto sprins and three point raises and lowers properly. There are two sets of remotes on the back and pushing the levers up and down you can hear the pump working to push fluid.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Pulled the pins and the spools (circled on pic) spin pretty easily with the use of a flat head.
The ends of the cables move when wiggled. I will remove the plastic housing and check the cables.

Btw, it’s a hydrostatic, the pto sprins and three point raises and lowers properly. There are two sets of remotes on the back and pushing the levers up and down you can hear the pump working to push fluid.

If the joystick is still stuck with the cables disconnected you have a control cable problem or something is wrong with thr joystick pivot block. The cause should not be hard to find.

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pulled the pins and the spools (circled on pic) spin pretty easily with the use of a flat head.
The ends of the cables move when wiggled. I will remove the plastic housing and check the cables.

Btw, it’s a hydrostatic, the pto sprins and three point raises and lowers properly. There are two sets of remotes on the back and pushing the levers up and down you can hear the pump working to push fluid.

The Spools don't spin to work, they push in and out to work.
If you have the cables removed from the spools and the block, they should move freely
If they are not then something happened in the back.

I'm really confused by you saying it's a hydrostatic, they didn't make a M7060 in a Hydrostatic transmission.
Do you mean it's a hydraulic shuttle? They all are in that model.

 

[CrimsonClay]

The Spools don't spin to work, they push in and out to work.
If you have the cables removed from the spools and the block, they should move freely
If they are not then something happened in the back.

I'm really confused by you saying it's a hydrostatic, they didn't make a M7060 in a Hydrostatic transmission.
Do you mean it's a hydraulic shuttle? They all are in that model.

Yes, shuttle shift. I apologize. Chemo brain is awful.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes, shuttle shift. I apologize. Chemo brain is awful.

Is the joystick freed up now that you have disconnected the cables?

Dan

 

[CrimsonClay]

If the joystick is still stuck with the cables disconnected you have a control cable problem or something is wrong with thr joystick pivot block. The cause should not be hard to find.

Dan

Took the joystick and cables off. Sprayed brake parts cleaner on the and let the soak. They broke loose and the joystick will pivot.

I put the joystick back on and attached cables. The joystick was pretty firm trying to move it but it eventually worked.

I can tilt the bucket back and forth but have no lift. I assume the nuts on the mounting block under the floorboard need adjusting.

Any suggestions on how to reset the adjustment nuts back to a default type position? Then adjust as needed.

 

[CrimsonClay]

If the joystick is still stuck with the cables disconnected you have a control cable problem or something is wrong with thr joystick pivot block. The cause should not be hard to find.

Dan

I believe I have found the problem. The valve mounting bracket is bent (see pic). It bent towards the front left tire approx 3”. I'm going to take it off and attempt to straighten it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I believe I have found the problem. The valve mounting bracket is bent (see pic). It bent towards the front left tire approx 3”. I'm going to take it off and attempt to straighten it.

I was wondering about that, the picture you just posted really shows it.
That bend in that bracket will bind everything up.

If it's bent too much you can get a new one, but ouch!

Kubota #7J446-71410 STAY, VALVE

STAY, VALVE

www.messicks.com

 

[TheOldHokie]

I believe I have found the problem. The valve mounting bracket is bent (see pic). It bent towards the front left tire approx 3”. I'm going to take it off and attempt to straighten it.

I think you have found your problem. Looks like its just a flat plate?? It should be easy to fabricate a replacement if you cant straighten the original.

Dan

 

[CrimsonClay]

It is really odd that both are stuck pulled????
Pull the pins and see if the spools move or if the cable moves.
Follow the cables back to the control looking for damage.

After days of pouring down rain, I finally got the bracket off and straightened. There is a nice 90 degree in the bracket now and no curves.

I’ve put it all back together at this point. How do you adjust and set the cables from the lever correctly? The lever controller is just wabbly now and won’t control anything. Is there a method to set them to a default setting and adjust from there?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Look at the first picture you posted and set them like that.
Looks like the outer nut was almost to the end of the adjustment.

 

[CrimsonClay]

I’ve just adjusted the calbles to match the original picture. The controller lever is just a little wobbling all over. It won’t be even stand up in a neutral position. It just leans whichever way it falls.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So when you move the joystick do the cables move?
Did you do any adjusting of the cables at the control stick side?

Please provide a new picture of the control stick bottom (pivot points) and the cable mount (that you straightened) at the valves.

 

[CrimsonClay]

So when you move the joystick do the cables move?
Did you do any adjusting of the cables at the control stick side?

Please provide a new picture of the control stick bottom (pivot points) and the cable mount (that you straightened) at the valves.

When I move the joystick the cables do not move. I did no adjusting up at the control stick side. Just cleaned up the gunk and sprayed wd-40.

Here are the pics you requested. If there are any other specific pics you want, just let me know.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sounds like the cable have become disconnected under the controller.
Or they got damaged.
Remove the 2 silver bolts on the side and the controller will lift out the top.
If you disconnect them at the bottom you will be able to pull the controller and the cables all the way out.

Need to check that the cables are connected to the ball ends that go up into the controller.

These are the cables ends that attach to the controller.

060 are the ball ends

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

To adjust the cables properly, you would put the controller in a lock position.
The slide lock ( RED #020) would go into the slots just below the balls ( Blue #060).
That puts the controller in neutral.
Then you would attach the bottom cables to the spools, as the spools sit in neutral.

 

[CrimsonClay]

To adjust the cables properly, you would put the controller in a lock position.
The slide lock ( RED #020) would go into the slots just below the balls ( Blue #060).
That puts the controller in neutral.
Then you would attach the bottom cables to the spools, as the spools sit in neutral.

View attachment 122363

Does this Allen screw come out to separate the block and check the bottom of the joystick and cable connections?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm pretty sure the allen just holds the fixed pivot point in place.
But you will remove it to get the block to separate from the other 2 joints.
The cables will unthread from the block after you unlock the lock nut on the bottom.
Before you take them out note how many threads they are into the block and note their location.
What you would look for is that the ball ends are seated on the cable and the small lock nut is in place.