Kubota L35 Problem

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Lisle 15000

Lisle 15000 Engine Cylinder Hone for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Lisle 15000 Engine Cylinder Hone at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

and a stone set:

Lisle 15000 Engine Hone Stone Kit 80, 180, 280, 500 Grit Stones | eBay

Stone and wiper cylinder hone 4 piece set, 80, 180, 280 and 500 grit stones, 5" stones each.

www.ebay.com

 

[Russell King]

I recall that you will break those honing stones if there is a ridge at that nick, so you may have to remove that high spot. I don’t recall what was used to remove those high spots (ridge). It has been several decades since I had to hone a cylinder so don’t take this as gospel and just learn how to hone a cylinder.

I would assume there are hundreds of good and bad videos out there. The vendor site probably has some good information on using the tools.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I recall that you will break those honing stones if there is a ridge at that nick, so you may have to remove that high spot. I don’t recall what was used to remove those high spots (ridge). It has been several decades since I had to hone a cylinder so don’t take this as gospel and just learn how to hone a cylinder.

I would assume there are hundreds of good and bad videos out there. The vendor site probably has some good information on using the tools.

Ball pein hammer is a good way to get rid of the high spot.

 

[TheOldHokie]

ok thanks. Let me know if you have a recommended tool for the cylinder honing. Or should it be taken somewhere for that. Also any other specialty tools that come to mind that I will need for a rebuild let me know thanks.

I think you would be ahead in time, money, and quality if you took that block to an automotuve machine shop and let them do your cylinder work.

Dan

 

[Fluke216]

Lisle 15000

Lisle 15000 Engine Cylinder Hone for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Lisle 15000 Engine Cylinder Hone at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

and a stone set:

Lisle 15000 Engine Hone Stone Kit 80, 180, 280, 500 Grit Stones | eBay

Stone and wiper cylinder hone 4 piece set, 80, 180, 280 and 500 grit stones, 5" stones each.

www.ebay.com

Lisle 15000

Ok thanks I’m going to look into getting these. I’m going to try and check out some videos. Should the other cylinders be honed also or just the one with the scratch. Should I be getting a cylinder/bore gauge to be checking it while honing or am I over thinking it? Is there a recommended order as far as stone grit goes, and is there a recommended type of lubricant that should be used. Thanks again for all the information.

 

[Fluke216]

I recall that you will break those honing stones if there is a ridge at that nick, so you may have to remove that high spot. I don’t recall what was used to remove those high spots (ridge). It has been several decades since I had to hone a cylinder so don’t take this as gospel and just learn how to hone a cylinder.

I would assume there are hundreds of good and bad videos out there. The vendor site probably has some good information on using the tools.

That’s was going to be my next question about a recommended video on the correct procedure.

 

[Fluke216]

I think you would be ahead in time, money, and quality if you took that block to an automotuve machine shop and let them do your cylinder work.

Dan

Ok thanks I’ll look and see what shops are in my area.

 

[Fluke216]

https://www.fabheavyparts.com/produ...yUoyAOXC7UWmxP_tyG1FCR0qCN_KVZt0fZ-tWpw&gQT=2 would this be the correct rebuild kit? Should the water pump and injectors be done also.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

No sense in paying for liners.

https://www.amazon.com/Seapple-16423-21112-16423-21110-19077-21110-19077-21112/dp/B0F2XZDXM2?gQT=2

Buy a OEM head gasket: 16487-03310
And this connecting rod:

Assembly Connecting Rod 17331-22010 fits Kubota V1702DI V1902DI V2003-T KX121-2 | eBay

<br /> <br />Product Features & Benefits <br />High-Quality Construction: Built from durable materials to withstand the rigorous demands of agricultural and construction machinery. <br />Longevity and Reliability: Engineered for long-lasting durability, ensuring consistent performance in harsh...

www.ebay.com

 

[Fluke216]

No sense in paying for liners.

https://www.amazon.com/Seapple-16423-21112-16423-21110-19077-21110-19077-21112/dp/B0F2XZDXM2?gQT=2

Buy a OEM head gasket: 16487-03310
And this connecting rod:

Assembly Connecting Rod 17331-22010 fits Kubota V1702DI V1902DI V2003-T KX121-2 | eBay

<br /> <br />Product Features & Benefits <br />High-Quality Construction: Built from durable materials to withstand the rigorous demands of agricultural and construction machinery. <br />Longevity and Reliability: Engineered for long-lasting durability, ensuring consistent performance in harsh...

www.ebay.com

yea thanks all the ones I was looking at had liners. Should I just keep following the wsm as far as disassembly and reassembly. Do you think I should get a bore gauge to check the block and see if it’s within tolerance and then hone Or have someone hone it just wanted to double check and see. Thanks

 

[Fluke216]

also you were saying buy an oem head gasket and don’t use the one with the kit correct? Thanks

 

[TheOldHokie]

yea thanks all the ones I was looking at had liners. Should I just keep following the wsm as far as disassembly and reassembly. Do you think I should get a bore gauge to check the block and see if it’s within tolerance and then hone Or have someone hone it just wanted to double check and see. Thanks

I thonk you should let a shop evaluate and prep the block BEFORE buying any parts. They will measure, correct any problems, and tell what oversize/undersize if any you might need.

Dan

 

[Fluke216]

I thonk you should let a shop evaluate and prep the block BEFORE buying any parts. They will measure, correct any problems, and tell what oversize/undersize if any you might need.

Dan

I thonk you should let a shop evaluate and prep the block BEFORE buying any parts. They will measure, correct any problems, and tell what oversize/undersize if any you might need.

Dan

Ok thanks yes I haven’t bought any of the parts yet need to disassemble some more and then have someone check it out as I need someone to check out the head also. To see if I need a new one I guess or if it could be repaired.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok thanks yes I haven’t bought any of the parts yet need to disassemble some more and then have someone check it out as I need someone to check out the head also. To see if I need a new one I guess or if it could be repaired.

Quite frankly this is work best left to a professional shop. They will clean and inspect the block and head for less than it would cost you to buy the tools.

Dan

 

[Jinx]

Was using Kubota L35 TLB a few days ago and started making a crazy clanking sounds while it was running. I shut it off and it restarted a few times making the same noise. Tried a few other times and you can see the fan move a little in the front then nothing so it just kinda makes a Kline when you try and start it. I assume the motor may be toast any opinions. One other thing is the negative battery cable got real hot the few times I tried to turn it over again if that’s an indication of anything. I bought this off an auction a few years ago and repacked all the cylinders except the one inside the boom. Changed some hoses and stuff had like 2500 hrs on it. Any info is appreciated or links to any videos taking the motor apart and finding the problem. Thanks

Yikes—that doesn’t sound good, but you’re on the right track with your observations. The loud clanking, followed by the engine barely turning and the fan barely moving, could point to something serious like a seized engine or internal failure (like a broken rod or damaged crank). The hot negative battery cable definitely suggests there’s a major draw or mechanical bind—possibly the starter is trying to turn a seized motor.

A few things you might check before assuming the worst:

Try rotating the engine by hand using the crank pulley (with a socket and breaker bar). If it won’t budge or locks up partway, that’s a strong sign of internal failure.

1. Pull the starter and inspect it. A jammed or broken starter gear can cause clanking and prevent crank movement.
2. Check oil level and look for metal shavings on the dipstick or in the oil filter—could confirm internal damage.
3. Inspect the flywheel/starter ring gear—it could have broken teeth if the starter’s been slamming into it.

It’s great you’ve already done a lot of solid work on the machine—it’s worth digging into a bit more before calling the engine toast.


As for videos, you might look up Kubota L35 engine teardown or D1703 engine rebuild (that’s the common engine in the L35). There are a few good YouTube walk-throughs from DIYers that go through step-by-step inspections and teardowns.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yikes—that doesn’t sound good, but you’re on the right track with your observations. The loud clanking, followed by the engine barely turning and the fan barely moving, could point to something serious like a seized engine or internal failure (like a broken rod or damaged crank). The hot negative battery cable definitely suggests there’s a major draw or mechanical bind—possibly the starter is trying to turn a seized motor.

A few things you might check before assuming the worst:

Try rotating the engine by hand using the crank pulley (with a socket and breaker bar). If it won’t budge or locks up partway, that’s a strong sign of internal failure.

1. Pull the starter and inspect it. A jammed or broken starter gear can cause clanking and prevent crank movement.
2. Check oil level and look for metal shavings on the dipstick or in the oil filter—could confirm internal damage.
3. Inspect the flywheel/starter ring gear—it could have broken teeth if the starter’s been slamming into it.

It’s great you’ve already done a lot of solid work on the machine—it’s worth digging into a bit more before calling the engine toast.


As for videos, you might look up Kubota L35 engine teardown or D1703 engine rebuild (that’s the common engine in the L35). There are a few good YouTube walk-throughs from DIYers that go through step-by-step inspections and teardowns.

You didn't read the whole thread did you?
The answer to what is wrong with it is in the writing and pictures.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

yea thanks all the ones I was looking at had liners. Should I just keep following the wsm as far as disassembly and reassembly. Do you think I should get a bore gauge to check the block and see if it’s within tolerance and then hone Or have someone hone it just wanted to double check and see. Thanks

@TheOldHokie has a fair point, I have all the tools, equipment, and shop space to be able to do the repairs, I also don't pay to do things I can do myself.

If you do get the kit, yes do not use the head gasket in the kits, use an OEM head gasket.

 

[Spam Bot]

If it were mine, I would create an inventory list of parts needed to rebuild the engine, including tools that you don't presently have and all the associated costs. Then, get a quote from the machine shop regarding the cost of their work. Add all those costs up and then subtract that number from the price of the rebuilt engine, including shipping, and then decide if the difference in expenses is worth it for you to rebuild or buy the rebuilt engine with the 1-year warranty.
When I had my shop, it was often less expensive to buy a remanufactured engine than to do the work myself and pay the machine shop for their labor. Sometimes, a short block was the better buy. You don't know until you crunch all the numbers and determine how long it will take you to get the tractor back into running condition.

 

[Fluke216]

If it were mine, I would create an inventory list of parts needed to rebuild the engine, including tools that you don't presently have and all the associated costs. Then, get a quote from the machine shop regarding the cost of their work. Add all those costs up and then subtract that number from the price of the rebuilt engine, including shipping, and then decide if the difference in expenses is worth it for you to rebuild or buy the rebuilt engine with the 1-year warranty.
When I had my shop, it was often less expensive to buy a remanufactured engine than to do the work myself and pay the machine shop for their labor. Sometimes, a short block was the better buy. You don't know until you crunch all the numbers and determine how long it will take you to get the tractor back into running condition.

Ok I look at that thank you.

 

[Fluke216]

Just looking for a little more direction . I removed the pistons and rods. The rod underneath the middle piston doesn’t look bent I assume replace to be safe? I was looking at this video of a complete disassembly of a similar engine is this what I should be doing to do a compete rebuild? That piston was tight and a little hard to get out as it’s cracked but others came out nicely and now crankshaft spins freely. Thanks for any info much appreciated.


small side questions some of the electrical connectors the plastic is deteriorating anyone have a link to this type of connector to get replacements I’ll include picture of that also. Thanks