Kubota L35 - Lost power to the front wheels

[LT1Pat]

I was plowing some snow with the front end loader and about 30 minutes in I noticed I had no traction anymore. It was obvious that only my rear wheels were spinning and lost 4WD. I tried backing up and making sure it was in 4WD and all I could hear is a little whirring noise (similar to a gear not fully engaged). I lifted the front end up and it only barely moved the front wheels with the tires off the ground. When I spin one tire, I can hear the gears turn and the other tire barely moves the opposite direction. Everything feels smooth so I think it must be broken between the transmission and the driveshaft to the front pinion. Is there a common place to look for? I hear that there could be a coupler shaft with a roll pin that could have slid out that might have caused it. I never heard any loud noises or feel and crunchiness/broken gears.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This is a look at the "propeller shaft's" one of them is accessible under the front end (#10),( The other shaft is inside the transmission housing(#20)).
Just loosen or remove clamps #120, #130 and rubber collar #110 and the front half of the shaft cover should slide back to let you see the shaft.
With one front tire jacked up, so only one front tire can spin turn the tire looking at the shaft if it turns then the problem is to the rear if it doesn't then the problem is in front of it.

 

[LT1Pat]

I did what you suggested and I immediately found the problem. The shaft does not turn at all when I spin the front wheels. The front coupler just spins over the splines on the driveshaft side. It appears that I lucked out because the driveshaft and coupler is stripped and not the pinion.

 

[lsmurphy]

I don't know that I would call that lucky.....call it expensive.



And learn to resize your pics.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Excellent, super lucky, less than a $20 fix!
There is another coupling to the rear you might want to change that one at the same time. There is also a third but that require some major work to get to it.

Coupling T0070-14710 $17.61
http://www.goldeneagledirect.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=45659

Roll pin 05411-00430 $0.31
http://www.goldeneagledirect.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=54093

 

[LT1Pat]

I took the shaft out and the pinion splines are a little rounded but still look good enough to re-use. I may weld another half of a coupling onto it to give it some more engagement on the pinion.

 

[LT1Pat]

The propeller shaft is stripped pretty good.

Excellent, super lucky, less than a $20 fix!
There is another coupling to the rear you might want to change that one at the same time. There is also a third but that require some major work to get to it.

Coupling T0070-14710 $17.61
http://www.goldeneagledirect.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=45659

Roll pin 05411-00430 $0.31
http://www.goldeneagledirect.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=54093

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't know that I would call that lucky.....call it expensive.
And learn to resize your pics.

Pic's are fine on mine?????

Why not lucky, ????, it's quick easy and cheap fix!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The propeller shaft is stripped pretty good.

You sure? Pic's look like coupler has all the wear.

Not as cheap but still cheaper than the front end guts!
32751-14630 $125.35
http://www.goldeneagledirect.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=102065

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I took the shaft out and the pinion splines are a little rounded but still look good enough to re-use. I may weld another half of a coupling onto it to give it some more engagement on the pinion.

I wouldn't weld on the coupler, they are hardened steel and welding is going to soften it up, or make it brittle.

 

[lsmurphy]

My bad.......maybe


From what the pic shows, looks like a drive shaft at the yoke.


The pics were WAY big at the time.

 

[LT1Pat]

You're right, welding doesn't sound like a good idea. I don't like the idea of the rounded splines on the pinion. Loctite offers a spline epoxy that looks like it might work for some extra peace of mind after I replace the driveshaft and both couplers.

 

[lsmurphy]

I forget the term for it.........

Rust forms between the splines of any shaft/coupler/yoke, that rust acts as an abrasive and wears the splines down to the point that they fail, as in your case.


Your shaft or your new shaft or your new coupler or yoke will be imperfect......life is imperfect.......all things are.......no matter how perfect you think it might be.

People who take the flex out of a shaft/joint that is imperfect only transfer the imperfection on to something else to fail.

Do not weld......do not chemically weld...........


Grease your joint and let it be.....it will last another 30 years......probably long after the next major failure.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you do that, only use it on the pinion side and realize that if you need to replace it in the future it's going to put up one hell of a fight to get it off!
I would have to agree with Ismurphy, just grease it and move on.
I think you'll be surprised how tight a new coupler will fit on the rounded splines. I personally would get the new coupler and try that first.