Kubota L2650 Electrical Problem

[BillD]

Yesterday I was hauling branches and when I went to restart the loader I got nothing. I could hear the relay on the emergency flashes make a noise but no lights. I hooked up a charger and the battery was at full charge until a load was placed and it then was heavily discharged. The flashers worked but not the starter with the charger on. I figured that the battery had a bad cell, although the battery is only 10 months old.

Today I replaced the battery, turned the ignition on and the easy checker lights came on for about 8-10 seconds accompanied by an electrical tone. Then lights out and no emergency flashers. I disconnected the negative terminal and quit for the day. The battery was installed correctly.

I guess I blew a fuse but would much appreciate any suggestions on how to proceed. The machine has 700 hours and really has been trouble free.

Thanks.

 

[dmanlyr]

First thing I would suspect is a bad connection, have you checked the ground connection from the battery to the chassis?

David

 

[BillD]

That is a good point. I did get 12.6 volts from the positive terminal to a bolt on the chassis. But that doesn't prove that the ground can carry current. Something to check, as that wire could be over 20 years old.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[BillD]

All connections between the battery and the chassis and starter motor are shiny bright and tight. Reconnecting and turning on the ignition, the same thing happened: checker lights come on, flasher lights work for a few seconds, then loud buzz comes from area of starter relay and timer relay. Then lights out and no power.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Have you load tested the battery?
The battery could voltage test fine and still have a bad plate which will give you low or no amps.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Have you load tested the battery?
The battery could voltage test fine and still have a bad plate which will give you low or no amps.

I agree with what you are saying Wolfman, but he is having the same issue with two different batteries now. Seems like something else may be going on here.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

OOPS
Helps if I read the first post closer.

I'm leaning towards a smaller ground problem around the dash/controls.
Try disconnecting the starter solenoid wire and see if everything acts normal, except it won't start, if it does it has a shorted solenoid.

 

[BillD]

With key switch in off position, hazard flasher relay makes a noise but lights don't flash. With key switch in the on position, the relay is quiet and there are no checker lights lit.

 

[BillD]

Disconnected solenoid wire. Also pulled starter relay and timer relay. Also disconnected key switch. Situation unchanged. Hazard relay will buzz when switched on. will stop when key switch (reconnected) is turned to on position.
Have 12.7 volts on B terminal of key switch. Like the ground fault idea.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just realized that your tractor is the same series as mine, so I should be able to help you out, as they work the same, and have the exact same parts.
The common ground is on the left side next to the fuel tank.
Do you have the service manual? If not you can get it here, it has an extensive electrical testing section!
download #66

http://golftechs.net/jtest/index.php?option=com_weblinks&view=category&id=28%3Amanuals&Itemid=6&limitstart=60

 

[BillD]

Best news all week! I am happy happy happy to have your help. Do have service manual, or most of one. It's pouring rain now so will wait till tomorrow to proceed.
Thanks,
Bill

 

[BillD]

What is the access to the common ground? Removal of the dash panel?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I've stripped all the body panels off of mine several times, I think try pulling the panel in front of the dash, if not then it's under the side panel. I'll look at mine tomorrow and get back to you.
I also know there is a main connection under the side cover that could really be giving you problems too.
The nice part of these models is there is very little electronic / electrical too them so we should be able to get to the bottom of this quick.

 

[BillD]

Had the dash panel off where I removed mouse nesting material which was packed in there from the last decade. It's 40 degrees out and pouring rain now. will wait for change in the weather. Which wiring harness on the wiring diagram is near the site of the possible grounding problem?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Here are 2 pic's the first is the schematic, you will notice all ground go to the same point, Second pic is where you will find ground connection and main plug.

 

[BillD]

What a great post! I've been working so I saw it this morning. Just got done removing the two panels and the one below. Didn't anything obvious and now it's getting dark. Just looked at the wiring diagram. It's a black wire out of wire harness 2.
Thanks a lot. I'll keep you updated.
Bill

 

[BillD]

Today I spent several hours going over the wiring. I checked continuity of the ground wire, which starts at the battery, through all the wiring harnesses to all endpoints, I think. I cleaned up the connection to the fuel level sender which was corroded. Then I had the battery load tested and it tested fine. When I reattached the battery, the flasher and checker lights worked normally. When I turned the key switch off I could hear the timer relay click just as it should a few seconds later. So I put the panels back on figuring things were fixed. Then I turned the key switch to the glow plug position and, for the third time now, heard a loud buzz and then the power left. The glow plug light did not light. So I seem to be able to reproduce this failure and I don't blow fuses and I don't hurt the battery. Seems like a component failure, I guess. I didn't try to start the engine because I knew that I had not connected the wire to the solenoid.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Well dang I thought you had it!
How do the battery cable ends look?
Corrosion in the connection from the wire to the connection will do some odd things.
When it does the power down does it stay that way if you leave the key there?
Let me put a little more thinking into this.

 

[BillD]

I think the power stays off until I fool with the battery cables. The connections between the battery and frame and starter were redone during this investigation and seem great to me. All surfaces were polished with emery cloth. The battery connecters have no corrosion and fit well.
Certainly, a fracture in one of these wires would cause what we're seeing here. It's easy enough to jump the connections to see what happens. So that's what we'll try next.
Thanks for your help.

 

[BillD]

So, would you believe, we have a winner! I reattached the battery cables and the flashers worked briefly, followed by the buzz of the hazard relay. Then I touched a wire from the positive terminal to the connection to the starter motor and the flashers began working.
I'm ordering a new cable.
So, final diagnosis, it seems is fracture in the positive battery cable. Of note the cable looks great on the outside.
Thanks very much for your help. Next time I'll know to bypass the cables and see what I get.
Bill